08baltSS

Hey guys, ive done a lot of research on here and learned a lot.
I have an 08 cobalt ss turbo and it has an electronic exhaust delete kit, Hahn exhaust, Hahn charge tubing, and a Hahn CAI. It is custom tuned too but I dont know where how our by who it was done.
Dealer is trying to tell me that these parts are what is causing the cel to be on and for it to not start after getting gas.
I am sure that they arent causing the car to not start after I get gas,but do they caise the cel to be on?
Any help is much appreciated as I try to get them to fix the car that I just got 2 Weeks ago oh and it only has 32000 miles
Thanks!

06cobalt racer

iTrader: (11)

whats the code it is throwing?

Mr.Tozzi

iTrader: (3)

that really sounds like what happened to me
EVAP solenoid valve failed. car was super hard to start after fill up. 20 dollar part.
Could be the same thing could be something different. go to autozone and ask them to pull the code.

sLAsh

iTrader: (2)

Did you buy the car from them? If so let them remove all the parts and replace them with stock parts to get rid of the cel. Tell them you Want all the aftermarket parts because they were on the car when you bought it. Put the parts back on one at a time til you find the problem one and sell all the brand new factory parts. WIN

08baltSS

Just got out of work. Ill have to go have it scanned again tomorrow and then ill let u guys know, 2 were about evap, 1 was about bank 1 too lean, 1 was about IAC and there was 1 other but when dealer plugged it in they said there was like 10 or 15 also I dont knlw too much about ltft but from what ive read mine is 16 ussually and I dont think that is good.
Thanks for the ideas so far! I love to learn about these car and hope to keep my damn near forever lol.

Malaclypse

iTrader: (1)

Your EVAP purge solenoid is FUBAR.

Vapor locks the engine by allowing fuel vapors to be pushed into the intake manifold when you're filling up. If you unplug the line from the top of the Purge solenoid and then fill up, it shouldn't be hard to start at all. That should confirm your problem.

lockdownlegend

iTrader: (1)

its not your evap purge solenoid....thats cheap and good to replace but your problem is the evap vent valve that is located at the rear of the car by the gas tank. I had the same issue and this fixed it. Basically your car doesnt start after getting gas unless you give it some gas to get it started...then it runs rough for a min or two? If those are your issues then listen to me.

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

Mine did this, but i just replaced the EVAP purge solenoid on the Intake manifold and its never done it again.

08baltSS

Hey guys, thanks for the help so far, I havent forgoten about ya just been busy. Tightened up a vacum line yesterday and added coolant and secured the CAI better and all of the codes went away but it still doesnt want to start after fueling, but I didnt get a chance to replace any of the evap yet so I didnt expect it to. Im Gona try and get it fixed tomorrow by the dealer, wish me luck and thanks again!

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

If you wanna test the EVAP, take it off and then blow into it. If it lets air through then its broken. If it doesn't, then its good

Chevrolet Cust Svc

Looking forward to an update on how your visit goes tomorrow, 08baltSS.

All the best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

If it's throwing a P0455 or 456 then it's the Evap Purge Selenoid. Very common problem.

Won't get much help from the dealer. just do it yourself.

JacBlackSS/TC

Yeah just replace the evap we all went through it a pretty simple fix and relatively in expensive.
As far as warranty you would have to read your dealer packet to make sure you didn't sign anything saying the car was certified

08baltSS

Ok, so I know it has been FOREVER since i updated, but i'm finally on summer break from college so i have time now to respond. The original problem is very far in the past now, the dealer paid for the part and paid to have my bumper re-attached correctly(was missing a few clips and was pretty flimsy). Since then it has still been a lot of problems though. About a week after that problem was fixed, the car started to intermittently loose boost/ go into limp mode. This problem, a few months later, is still occurring. We, a guy i know who rebuilds cobalts, and i have been trying to figure out this problem, but have yet to figure it out. Anyway about a month ago i was out on a delivery (yes the car is used to deliver pizza and yes it is the most bad ass delivery vehicle around where i live ) and i get a flat tire. I get the car towed to where the guy i have work on my car works, bastian tire & auto, and he fixes me up, but tells me that the last person who put the tires on messed up the bead or something like that and tried to fix it so it was imminent that it would go flat at some point or another. After that was fixed though we found out we had to relearn the tpms so we did(no big deal, someone just rotated the tires and didn't relearn it). Now yesterday i'm going down the highway at 35 mph in 5th and decide to pass a few slow cars(speed limit is 40mph) so i drop down to third and start to pass when my car falls on it's face(sorta like when it goes into limp mode), but it starts making a terrible noise and the check engine light starts flashing and when i change my interceptor to knock retard, every time i hit the gas the knock retard kicks on and so i just coast it about a half mile to a garage where i know the guys who owns it and leave it there overnight. This morning i get up before work and have the car towed to bastians and the guy i have work on it takes it out for a test run and i hear him hammering on it just a few blocks away and when he comes back he looks at me and tells me that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the car and sure enough i drive it delivering pizzas all day and there is not a damn thing wrong with the car. At this point i am just completely clueless as to what is wrong with the car.
P.S.: I am majoring in Game Simulation and Design, but i have a passion for cars. I don't know a lot, but i am always trying to learn, if you have any suggestions as to what could be even remotely possible wrong with my car please let me know. I may not know what you are talking about lol, but i can always run it past my mechanic ( pretty much stop in on a daily basis just to talk anyway haha)
Thanks for reading this beast of a reply and sorry for the long, long wait

Frogstofall

iTrader: (1)

What are the codes it throws? Check the stored codes too.

08baltSS

Ok, last time i checked (before the whole cel flashing and towing ordeal) the codes i had were P0137, P0101, P2096(2x), and P2195(2x). I've heard that P0101 can and will cause the other codes, but when we plug the car in for diagnostics the maf seemed to be ok, frequency was a little low, but not too much. I can have the car plugged in again at advanced tomorrow before work to get an updated list. Its a good thing i have a friend that works there that scans it for me all the time because i usually have it scanned atleast once a week lol (only because of the fact that i can count the number of days the light hasn't been on since i bought the car three months with my fingers).

BlueStang

Ah the fun times of owning a Cobalt.

09BlueBaltSS

More like the fun times of buying a cobalt that someone previously screwed up and now you are stuck hunting down all the gremlins.

SSlobalt

Gonna tell you what I tell everyone in this situation: run a boost leak test. See my sig for details. You probably blew a hose off the intercooler, or cracked the intercooler. That's your P0101. Your P0-137/P2096 is likely caused by an exhaust leak, or it has something to do with that ridiculous cutout you have.

RobSSsedan

Mine did the same thing after fueling up. It was my evap purge valve. heres a how to check your evap purge valve!!

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...lenoid-278115/

08baltSS

Hey guys, thanks for all of these quick replies! I got the car scanned this morning at advanced by my friend and we only came up with 2 codes, p0101 and po137. These aren't new news to me, but i just wanted to add a few more details to help generate ideas. Symptoms i have yet to list on this post are the limp mode only seeming to happen when fuel is around 1/4 tank or less(could be wrong, but thats the only time i seem to notice it happen), the problem can go 2 or 3 weeks without happening again(knowing this does that eliminate a boost leak?), the problem can be simply fixed by restarting my car at a stoplight, my interceptor gauge never reads above 82% throttle % even when i have the pedal all the way down, and finally my fuel trims and a/f ratio are always all over the place(ie ltft ussually hangs in the range of 12-25 and stft usually hang between -5-5)
Thanks for all the help, any updates ill be sure to add.

TommyP

iTrader: (2)

To be quite honest, with all the problems you're having this is one of those situations where I would recommend you replace all your aftermarket stuff with stock parts, and get the stock tune flashed back on, and start from scratch.

08baltSS

I wouldn't mind doing this at all, but i don't have any of the stock parts nor do i know where to get the car tuned back to stock. Everything that is on the car was installed by the previous owner whom i do not know. If anyone on here knows of someone that sold and 08 lnf with these mods and 30k miles on it that is from the pottstown, pa area then that would be awesome, but my guess is no one does .

TommyP

iTrader: (2)

a dealer can flash your ecu back to stock if you request it. You can almost always find used stock parts for sale on here pretty cheap. At least if you're working with an all stock car you know that aftermarket parts cannot be an issue, or a tune with the stock ecu. Will help you narrow down your list of problems.

bri2203

iTrader: (10)

I should really start modding my car!