here it is lol.^^^^ SOX FAN, overnight you went from a beer drinking plebe to a safety **** mod? whodathunkit?

JOKING..........

 

Too funny!

No, more like I'm one of those hardcore barred noobs that would snap spin hard in the rain with bigger rears. I have no issues with the rear brakes as is, but I figured I'd put the thought in there.

 

its a good thought. The rear disc brake conversion on an ls/lt does not produce and ideal rear brake bias, but folks dont crash with it...

 

^^This 100%. I've actually posted this suggestion around a few times yet have been shrugged off every time.. lol

I, like so many others, originally had issues with uneven wear and horrid scoring on the rotors. Since replacing the rear rotors and pads about 8,000 miles ago I've been lubing the pad ends (the area that slides within the cage) with a high temp grease and have yet to have any issue again with my rears. I actually also went the extra mile and ground smooth any rough spots on the caliper and cage as well to allow the pads to slide with a little less interference. Thus far it has worked great for me. Just my .02

 

You are right in my book. I found some 08 and even 09 cars had brake pad material with sintered metallic particles that would "clump" in the pad and make big gouges in the rotor. GM warrantied that stuff, even one car I repaired at the customers expense, he took the parts back and they replaced them for him.
I have no seen any issues with LNF rear brakes for two years or more, properly serviced as you describe, although SLVRRED is having a tough time with his rear LNF brakes right now.

 

Could you post a MS paint picture with arrows to the areas you are talking about exactly? I wanna try this...

 

Me too, my slide pins aren't doing anything for me.

 

Sounds like an easy fix already suggested in this thread vs buying a whole new setup. When it comes to suspension and braking as well as aero, no one knows these cars better than Powell. Hands down.

 

I greased my pins at every oil change. I now have 24K miles. The rear inner pads wore out down to the metal. Had the e-brake problem, too. Resetting the calipers fixed my e-brake issue, so I replaced pads/rotors and reset the calipers again. I noticed that it took about 30lbs of pressure on the caliper piston, while turning, to get them to retract. There is something wrong with a certain run of the calipers. I'm sure that if we knew how to look up the batch number of the ****-calipers, we would find they all came from a certain supplier at a certain time.

 

Its important to use anti seize and grease selectively on brake parts. Anti seize will wreck the rubber sliders. It will wreck caliper boots. the purple ceramic stuff wont. so... i use brembo copper anti seize but i use it sparingly /carefully on pad ends and bridges.

 

Lubed my pins and everything at 20k miles when I got the car, now at 32K miles and car is fine so far.

People are lazy.

 

I'll try to get some pictures done up tonight if I have some free time. If not tonight then I'll take some by this weekend.

 

Slide pins aren't really the main issue here, however they can definitely contribute to the problem if not serviced regularly. Although that's really the case for any brake job for any vehicle to be honest.

 

I bought my car at 34k miles and the previous owner had already changed the brakes out, but with some el-cheapo pads that squealed like a dying banshee. So i installed oe rotors, with some Hawk HPS pads front and rear, and lubed the crap out of the rear pins and that was 2 years ago this past january(about 50k miles). I am just now in the market to replace the front pads and rotors and just turning the rears. Now this is my daily driver with well over 300 miles a week on her, as well as some spirited driving and some late night country back road runs as well. Since ive put this setup on ive had zero issues outta it, with the exception of turning the rotors only once just over a year ago. But id consider purchasing pending on the price as well. Just my .02

robk

 

Sounds like the factory rotors are the issue. Once replaced all is well. I'm still on factory rotors

 

I, of course, would buy a full big brake kit from ZZP. I'm a big brake *****. Love some big ole ginormous rotors...and brembos in the back would be cool.

But I will be honest and disagree Vahdyx...80% of cobalt owners will not buy it if it costs over 20 bucks. lol


But as for me, my stock rear ones got pretty fucked up. but I went to the R1 concepts...no problems since then.

 

ZZP has a real knack for being a bit overpriced on certain things. The one thing I really really needed from them they wouldn't ship. Somehow they expected me to ship my car to them to install a transmission. Really?!?! If they are reasonable in price I'll bite on better rear calipers.

 

i have all 4 R1 rotors with HAWKS and no problems at all, totally agree with you lol. i want some rear brembos so bad!

and they had their reasons for not shipping out the transmissions any longer........and totally understandable, im going to be driving out there, its worth the work and price to me, so if you really wanted/needed it, then you would do it lol. i think their prices are fine and if anything below avg pricing compared to other places

 

At 10k miles my oem stuff was destroyed. I switched to hawk hps and r1 blank rotors. Cleaned and lubed the moving parts and have not had an issue in 25k miles. I clean and lube the pins every 2 oil changes. Would be nice to have a 2 piston brembo in the rear but not a must have

 

^This. From 3k miles to 12k miles, my rears squealed if I lightly braked to a stop. My rotors looked gouged, but the pads looked ok inside vs. out. Then I spent a day zipping around Road America. The wheels would get so hot after a session, you couldn't touch them. My brakes haven't squealed since and my rear rotors actually look better than they used to.

I would be interested in like a 2 piston Brembo setup. Something that looks like it would have came factory that way, and doesn't mess with the brake bias.

 

This.^^

Also I think the rear pads are not the quality level of the fronts or are softer .
Who is the manufacturer of the rears? Fedorro like the fronts?

 

Ive had the calipers replaced under warranty once, and two sets of rotors and pads replaced, also under warranty. Probably around 35,000 miles. Car has 49k. But its not longer the daily, so its doesnt get driven much. I havent had an issue with it since, I think it was just some bad pads or something, but I can tell you that I was having e brake problems with it getting loose and then them adjusting it, so it could be that some of you guys have your pads draggin very slightly.

Anyway, for all the people who are changing out their pads to hps, or even hps+, they do not stop as well as stock pads, although they will throw off less dust.

 

Are you serious? ZZP has the best prices for EVERYTHING around. They have their reasons for not shipping something to you. if you think they're expensive then stop modifying your car.

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/gene...brakes-295900/

 

Well, I intend to get new rear rotors and pads end of summer. Perhaps ZZP Slotted and holed <--ha but definitely Hawk HPS Pads since I don't track it very often. In all honesty I'll probably just get stock rotors. I too would worry about this issue where if I get good rotors, they'll be gone in 30k miles.

I lubed up slide pins all the time, but I also wash my car very very frequently, so maybe the spraying of my wheels causes the grease to go away sooner. I don't know, plus I live in Colorado and it's wet from Novemberish to April via snow or rain, so perhaps that is a contributing factor?

Also, I very rarely and I mean very rarely step on my brakes hard. So perhaps that's my problem too, but if you ask me that's by far the stupidest design ever made. Why would GM make a braking system that requires hard braking?

Makes no sense to me.