Look at Hahns Dino sheet with 20g 420whp stock motor

 

okay, i have already seen it...so what is it that you wanted me to see?
i didnt say the "peak power" would be more for the built/ stock turbo, i was trying to say the delivery and midrange and torque would be much better and safer...therefore lasting longer without issues, and running the same 1/4 mile times

 

The best bang for the bucks for you get to 370whp is get the ZFR because it's bolt on, clutch, and a tune. But that will run you over $2500 new.

I thought ZZP/ Matt had answered your question in the other thread?

Originally Posted by Matt M
A ZFR can't be touched by the stock turbo regardless of engine mods.

And fwiw, my s256 at low boost 16psi ( 25 psi high ) is quicker than my tuned 24psi gms1. That 's fact.

 

yeah, but its their new part that just came out, so i am sure they are a little biased...i was looking for real info stating like..." hey, you will never be over 350whp with the stock turbo, and on the zfr you can get that on just 20psi"...as an example

 

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you said in your op, but it still looks to me like you are implying that a built engine with a k04 (only fuel lobe upgrade and valve springs in top end) is just as fast if not faster than a stock motor with a larger turbo. I'm sorry man, but that's just not logical. Yes the engine will most definitely be stronger, but there is no way you will produce as much if not more power with the stock turbo in a built engine as compared to the stock engine with say a ZFR.

Again, compare apples to apples with just using the stock turbo as an example. If you keep the same displacement, same air flow, same compression ration and same fueling (fuel lobe doesn't really benefit you much as far as power goes when talking stock turbo) however just build the engine with stronger internals, that does not equate to more power.

 

Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
So far I'm impressed with the Zzp Efr setup... First I was iffy, but after dealing with a few it's well worth te money. Good job guys


I am sure you have seen this over on the other thread. With that kind of endorsement coming from James, and we don't need to rehash the history between the 2 parties, that has to count for something. Just wait a little and see what # are people producing from the ZFR.

 

What thread is this in? LOL I guess he's really liking my tuning me hahaha.

 

There are other companies that make valves, but they're not really an upgrade IMO.

 

My thoughts, exactly.

 

thats what I thought. the stock head with valve springs will support 600+ hp so why would you do valves?

 

Im planning to get the synapse turbo kit next summer. Its everything I need. Full bolt on setup, tune, turbo swap and 370WHP.380WTQ.

Cant honestly see myself needing more than that in a FWD car! And all for pretty cheap.

 

the synapse kit is $4000 and makes less power than the BNR, so why would you want that kit?


And here is the info I was loking for..thread done..lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt M

On 93 with everything I could throw at it, I was still under 350 on the stock turbo. The 6758 is around 400whp at 24psi with typical bolt-ons and a stock motor without getting overly aggressive.

 

People build their motor for reliability. Yes you can go big turbo and stock motor, but I guarantee at some point it will take a ****. IMO build the motor and get it ready for a big turbo. All opinion tho...

 

That's fine. Back to the topic at hand. My question to you would be; where are you gaining the extra HP? If you think the extra 50-70 whp is in the ZZP Cams then you are wrong. Even on ZZP's site with a ported built head w/ cams the gains are up to 50 Bhp on a stock turbo. That was with a ported head and from what I can see your head wont be ported. It would be safe to say that you would make even less power. You would be able to get away with a more aggressive tune but it still wont touch those numbers. So where do you see the extra power coming from? I would like to hear why you would think you could make more power with a built motor and a stock turbo? Where is your logic coming from?

 

I'm not being sarcastic or anything but these are real numbers IMHO

11.952@117.62 - stock turbo
10.896@132.88 - current best

 

Yes but people had grenade their engine with stock turbo and bad tune. At some point an engine will fail
And how quickly depending on the amount of abuse the owner puts on the engine. OP don't want to spend $10k+ for 370whp his budget is around $2k and his choices were built motor or tubo upgrade and not both.

 

A built motor with more compression utilizing the stock turbo would make a good amount of power with ethanol. However, you still can't change the fact that the turbo is signing off by 4700-5K RPM and out of breath by 6K.

A properly sized, more efficient turbo on a stock motor will always make more power and be just as reliable (tune being a huge variable here) as a built motor with the stock K04. Less heat and more airflow = win win

 

Stock deck height, stock unmilled head and stock thickness head gasket with wiseco's yield the stock compression ratio so no gain is made. I do agree that with a slightly higher cr like 10.0:1 would definitely yield gains with the k04 though.

 

A turbo upgrade does not cost 10,000 dollars. A complete turbo kit with intercooler charge pipes and tuning will be about 4k. Look for a used kit for the 2k range.

 

Even if you build the motor your not making 370 whp for long with a built motor. It doesn't matter how strong you build it, throwing the timing needed to make 370 whp with a small k04 will still cause sporadic KA and Det. A engine is only so strong beat on it long enough pushing the k04 way way out its efficiency range like that and see if your not spending another 2.5+k to rebuild your built engine again. You can't change physics there have been people in your thread who have been pushing the cobalt platform to their limits for years listen to them.

 

I snapped stock rod bolts with 340 wheel

 

No what I meant for a turbo kit and built motor $10k+ including tuning and supporting parts. My turbo kit, install, tuning, clutch and flywheel, stage 1 cams/fuel lobe, and springs cost up there over $6k but not $10k. I could do it cheaper myself but I don't want the headaches.

 

That's gotta be a defective bolt

 

what I was thinking, or driver error.

 

How exactly does one drive to detach a rod bolt? lol