suggestions?
suggestions?
I am upgrading the clutch on my ss/tc and wanted to know personal preferences on just getting the clutch, or getting both the clutch and lightweight flywheel? advantages? disadvantages?
i'm thinking if i'm just doing clutch i'm getting spec stage 3+ if i am doing both, i'm getting exedy hyper single...... suggestions? goal is just mid 12's on stock tires and turbo so i don't need like a crazy awesome clutch and still want good street ability
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i'm thinking if i'm just doing clutch i'm getting spec stage 3+ if i am doing both, i'm getting exedy hyper single...... suggestions? goal is just mid 12's on stock tires and turbo so i don't need like a crazy awesome clutch and still want good street ability
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Last edited by widowedeight; Apr 28, 2010 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
did you find the LNF tranny fluid yet? if not i can help you out
i am going with the exedy btw. I am installing it next week so i can let you know then
i am going with the exedy btw. I am installing it next week so i can let you know then
Last edited by slowbalt84; Apr 28, 2010 at 09:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
pretty sure this is getting ordered this week (tomorrow?) so i was kinda looking for people past the break in process ya know, thanks for the info, btw tranny fluid? wtf lnf need special ****?
I would go with the Hyper Single if you don't plan on doing a big turbo setup.
Maybe like this one
http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...idproduct=4912
Maybe like this one
http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...idproduct=4912
Yes, LNF needs special fluid.
I've been running the SPEC Stage2+ for a few thousand miles now with the lightweight flywheel, pedal is closer to the floor where it engages, you need the ZZP adj clutch rod.
Lightweight flywheel kills easier and I had to cut some timing to build boost as fast & recover WOT load.
If you keep the stock FW with the SPEC, you need to either drill the dowel pin holes out to 12mm or throw the dowel pins away. If you tell TTR you are keeping the stock FW, they will include the proper pins. I have a thread on it here someplace, search my posts for more info on the clutch & tranny fluid.
If I were to do it again, I'd order the ZZP Stage4+ and keep the stock flywheel. Replace the slave cyl/to bearing while you are in there. The SPEC Stage 2+ holds my tq fine, approx 380 ft/lbs here.
Stiffer than stock.
I've been running the SPEC Stage2+ for a few thousand miles now with the lightweight flywheel, pedal is closer to the floor where it engages, you need the ZZP adj clutch rod.
Lightweight flywheel kills easier and I had to cut some timing to build boost as fast & recover WOT load.
If you keep the stock FW with the SPEC, you need to either drill the dowel pin holes out to 12mm or throw the dowel pins away. If you tell TTR you are keeping the stock FW, they will include the proper pins. I have a thread on it here someplace, search my posts for more info on the clutch & tranny fluid.
If I were to do it again, I'd order the ZZP Stage4+ and keep the stock flywheel. Replace the slave cyl/to bearing while you are in there. The SPEC Stage 2+ holds my tq fine, approx 380 ft/lbs here.
Stiffer than stock.
ok so is it true that you have to rig the spec stage 3+ to get it to fit? i'm just looking for a clutch with wear as good as (minimally) the stock clutch (just started to slip after 47k, over 30k of that tuned....), also this may seem weird but what else "should" i do while the clutch is out, my syncro's are kinda fucked up, (grinds when i put it into reverse unless i put it in 3rd than reverse so i am assuming my syncros are a little outta wack) so what do i do about that, i obviously don't know much about trans's sorry for the ??????
ok so is it true that you have to rig the spec stage 3+ to get it to fit? i'm just looking for a clutch with wear as good as (minimally) the stock clutch (just started to slip after 47k, over 30k of that tuned....), also this may seem weird but what else "should" i do while the clutch is out, my syncro's are kinda fucked up, (grinds when i put it into reverse unless i put it in 3rd than reverse so i am assuming my syncros are a little outta wack) so what do i do about that, i obviously don't know much about trans's sorry for the ??????
Gimpster put his together without the dowels and didn't have any issues though.
When I got the clutch & pressure plate and I found out about the additional machine work needed I ordered the lightweight flywheel to match the pressure plate. The dowels that came with the pressure plate fit the lightweight flywheel. No rigging required.
http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...dcategory=5615
ok pretty sure this is what i am getting is there anything else that i would need?
guess i will just give ttr a call but if anyone has experience with this clutch it would be appreciated
nvm
it is this one, i wanted 3+ cause i heard it is way better for dd than just stage 3
http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...dcategory=5615
ok pretty sure this is what i am getting is there anything else that i would need?
guess i will just give ttr a call but if anyone has experience with this clutch it would be appreciated
nvm
it is this one, i wanted 3+ cause i heard it is way better for dd than just stage 3
http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...dcategory=5615
Last edited by widowedeight; Apr 30, 2010 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Last I knew it didn't come with a new slave cylinder (throw out bearing) I'd replace that too. You may want a ZZP adjustable clutch rod, but you can do that later I guess.
If you dont plan on going big turbo or anything the 2+ will be better on daily driving. My clutchmasters is fine for DD but it engauges a litlle rougher than stock. Still uses a stock pressure plate which is kinda nice since the pedal is stock like. and you can use the stock flywheel with no redrilling holes I am sure.
i'm gonna be upgrading my ic, ic piping eventually, but the main reason i'm doing spec stage 3+ is cause i figured that spec stage 2+ couldn't handle the tq from boosting 24psi from trifecta..... plus the fact that i'll be doing a 35 shot at some point in the distant future
Certain cars can handle 30psi and the torque from it, and some cant. The 2+ should be more then enough for anything thrown at it from the stock turbo.
Guess you're not coming up for a tune then since you mentioned a TF tune now..
Guess you're not coming up for a tune then since you mentioned a TF tune now..
i thought spec stage 2+ was for like less than 350tq at the motor, i think i have that right now lol but the general concensis so far is spec stage 2+ is enough for stock turbo even if boosting high...... i guess i will just go with stage 2+?
yeah going trifecta so i don't have to spend 600 to tune it myself, but can still tune friends (with help from vince obviously lol aka he tunes them) and i don't have to drive anywhere when i want/ need a retune
i thought spec stage 2+ was for like less than 350tq at the motor, i think i have that right now lol but the general concensis so far is spec stage 2+ is enough for stock turbo even if boosting high...... i guess i will just go with stage 2+?
i thought spec stage 2+ was for like less than 350tq at the motor, i think i have that right now lol but the general concensis so far is spec stage 2+ is enough for stock turbo even if boosting high...... i guess i will just go with stage 2+?
The SPEC Stage 2+ is rated 437 ft/lbs tq. I can't make mine slip. Mods in sig.
Same FW mods required for all SPEC clutches that I posted above.
Edit: Red beat me to it.
Same FW mods required for all SPEC clutches that I posted above.
Edit: Red beat me to it.
I went with TTR bit expensive try OTTP they had a sell going on.
I got mine from TTR, but like I posted above, I'd do the ZZP Stage 4+ with the stock flywheel instead.
Still need the adj clutch rod though. I don't think the LW flywheel is worth it on a turbo car.
Still need the adj clutch rod though. I don't think the LW flywheel is worth it on a turbo car.
k so far my choices have changed, they are now zzp stage 4+, or spec stage 2+ keeping stock flywheel, might get the throwout bearing and i have no idea what the purpose of this is "ZZP adjustable clutch rod" i'm assuming to let you control where the clutch engages/dissengages does anyone here have any info on the zzp stage 4+ (like personal storys) do you need to do anything special with it to get it to work like people were saying you have to do with the spec clutches?
Does the car feel different with the new lw flywheel? I should be getting my car next week I basically went the exact same route you went. Can you feel better grab and the power actually going to the wheels now?
I went with TTR bit expensive try OTTP they had a sell going on.
I went with TTR bit expensive try OTTP they had a sell going on.
You'll notice it'll die a lot easier when the clutch grabs. Pedal is a bit stiffer than stock but not overwhelming. Without the ZZP adj rod the clutch grabbed right on the floor. Raised the pedal a bit with the rod and it's ok.
k so far my choices have changed, they are now zzp stage 4+, or spec stage 2+ keeping stock flywheel, might get the throwout bearing and i have no idea what the purpose of this is "ZZP adjustable clutch rod" i'm assuming to let you control where the clutch engages/dissengages does anyone here have any info on the zzp stage 4+ (like personal storys) do you need to do anything special with it to get it to work like people were saying you have to do with the spec clutches?
Last edited by Iam Broke; Apr 30, 2010 at 03:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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