looks really good, i'll be waiting for clips def some pics installed, that bov looks massive haha

 

it is big and heavy i would say easily 2 pounds.

I will install it tommorow but I will only be hooking it up to the boost nipple on the elbow so it will not open. I will be leaving the stock one intact. When I get the intake it should look a little like this.



sorry its ugly

 

I finally got to reading this thread. I'd sure like to see some data showing that you loose 2 hp with an aluminum pipes vs steel. But, Guess What? we can make steel IC pipes, just thought aluminum for the same price was a better deal. After 10 years in this business, I though I knew what customers wanted, but I'm always surprised. I'll update our web page to let you choose.

 

2hp don't matter that unnoticeable, I wouldn't care for 2hahaha, good job dejon pipes look real good although I think I should offer more color choices



Oh and to the guy that questioned my turbo, Im taking ur advise on going bigger, just not a t28, I'm going with the slowboyracing turbo sbr-g50

 

wow thats a bit of a jump up from a t-25

and yeah the difference in steel vs aluminum is slim to none. you might add 5 pounds to the front end though .

Anyways the project is chugging along. I think I want to add an oil catch can to the intake so I can keep the closed loop to the crank case vent.

I will talk with dave to see about the custom intake I need.

 

I have the new intake setup. I have a HKS black ssq on my car now with the bov in the same location as yours. Dave then designed the intake so it can recirc. it looks great. I have to say I feel 0 change from vent into the air or vent back into the intake. personal preff. I guess. I will have pics tomarrow

 

Yeah big change from t25 but not far from the t3/to4e I was originally getting

 

I would go with all synapse on this one. I know they have a 3" intake but any intake will do...well....maybe not the AEM intake...stay away from that one. The only hahn product i would go with is their exhuast. I/C is a toss up of hahn and synapse

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/synapse-motorsport-164/charge-piping-group-buy-131531/

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/synapse-motorsport-164/synapse-motorsport-ss-tc-3-downpipe-122218/

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/synapse-motorsport-164/synapseturbo-holiday-sale-145170/

By the way, the synchronic is a good choice. diaphram BOVs are good but the piston types are a little better IMO

 

ok here is my first impressions.
intercooler piping rocks I didn't have any issues with the fit.
our turbo does blow air out at idle and is greater than engine vacuum so does the bov, so to the guy who told me so you can now tell me I told you so.
I still believe that this is due to how small and effiecient the turbo is on a larger turbo I do not think this would happen but I don't have a larger one to test yet.

I am glad I went with the greddy flange because that was going to be my second option of bov I still want to reroute it back to the intake it may not do anything but at least its not just going to the air. Probably going to sell the synchronic and get a greddy type rs.

This bov does work by the way just not the way I want it to. as of now if I hook it up it would just be a big boost leak. You can get the anti-stall kit and just vent it to the atmosphere but that is not what I want to do.

I am still going to experiment some more with it to see what all I can make it do and not do and I will post my findings.

It does look pretty sweet in the engine bay though







I removed the tube thing on the intake while the bumper was off.
by the way I took measurements of the intercooler and I will post them tommorow in case any one wants to know.

 

Looks good

 

today I will try to borrow a boost gauge from a friend and hook it to the boost nipple on the elbow to try to see if it does pull vacuum for a short while under load, this may happen under a full throttle condition or even part way. I will post my findings

 

Looks good, Goes with the color of the car. Good job

 

ok I tested it today.

It works in only one way right now and still can make the car stall a bit coming to a stop if you were giving it throttle.

I have ports a and b hooked to where the factory bov would be at the solenoid and I have nothing to port c

This bov will not work with out the anti-stall kit at least not vented it DOES interfere with the car and makes it stall.

As for the stock bov NO delete plate is needed

again you do not need a delete plate, I hooked it up to the boost nipple and even installed a check valve inline I never felt or heard it open or even start to open.

The bov sounds great by the way sounds kinda like a quite turboxs type h.

I think I am going to sell it to a friend locally though and get either a greddy or turboxs recirulating bov I havn't decided and once I get it I will try venting to the atmosphere first because I didn't see anything wrong with that part of my experiment.

I still think returning it into the intake is better but I want to see the effects it has on how the car feels if I don't.

 

I just installed my piping with the greddy rs and it looses pressure at 12 psi when my boost goes to 20 since I am tuned. So I tried tightening it and still the same thing. Any ideas? And I ran the wires like dave from Dejon has up on the site

 

can you post some pics of your install.

and does your rs have one or two vacuum nipples???

also see if air is coming out or into it from the hole below the top if it is it is broken.

Its been a while since I used a greddy and after reading up on them I am thinking that they are not the way to go too many people have reported the diaprham ruptured. I wish some one would have made an adjustable 1g dsm blow valve now that is a valve I am going to look into using. I think there is a way to do it its just been a while since I read how to.

 

I will post some pics tomorow morning. The bov has one nipple on it. And I tried to tighten it a bit more to see if it would help and the damn screw broke. But Monday I should be getting it replaced. I like the bov and all I might have just gotten a broken one. It works perfect up to 12psi and at that point it starts letting air out. I hope it gets fixed Monday. Ill keep you posted

 

Make sure it adjusted to the right level

 

this is why I'm glad I have an HKS. no adjusting

 

why are you going to sell it? why not just use it as a recirc?

 

I did. I started from the lowest and went all the way up and it did the same thing every single time. Im goin to try another one Monday and see what happens

 

not sure if this will help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrdGEHSFJQQ

 

Posted pictures in the garage take a look if youd like

 

do you have it hooked to where the stock one was hooked up on the solenoid and did you give your stock bypass valve a boost only signal???????

 

Yup did all that. Where the sensor is on the manifold I td off the top line back into the stock bypass valve and ran the one that was on it into the greddy

 

ok do this for me.

hook up the greddy to the boost only and your stock bov back to where it was go for a test drive and see if you are still having the same issue. If you are not having the issue then I wold suspect the greddy has a blown diaphram you can see if it is leaking air by checking the small vent hole on the underside of the top just below the nipple if it is then your diaphram is gone.


also you may need to hook it up to a true vacuum/boost source which is the one coming off the manifold or the bottom of the solenoid it may not be holding shut properly without a true signal



I may have found a way to make the synchronic work properly but it involves making a vacuum/boost control module that I just got done designing I may try it I may not depends on the price of the parts but I am very proud of my design so far I will keep you posted and If I decide to do nothing with it I may post a how too because It will eliminate leaky blow off valves and possibly eliminate compressor surge from using pull and push type blow off valves.