So, I am absolutely going to be upgrading my turbo in the near future with a bolt-on replacement, preferably the Pwerks WR-2, or the ZZP ZFR.
From browsing the forum I have noticed most people needed a tranny upgrade soon after the turbo, and a few people needed to build the motor as well depending on them maxing the turbo out.
So, what are the things needed to be upgraded to be safe at over 400whp and 400wtq?

maybe:
1. ZZP stage 1 tranny with lsd $2500, $1800 after core returned http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...nsmission.aspx
2. upgraded pistons $500 http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...F-Pistons.aspx
3. upgraded valve springs/retainers $300 http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...e-Springs.aspx
4. upgraded lash adjusters $150 http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...Adjusters.aspx
5. stage 3 or 4 clutch

Help me make a good detailed list of the best things to get with prices....thanks

 

at 400whp, your internals will be fine. That is, as long as the tune is done right.

your stock trans should hold up fine as long as your not driving your car too hard. Saving for a new trans would be a good idea though, because it eventually could go.

id like to suggest getting valve springs too if you could that way you can rev your car a little higher without worrying about losing rocker arms.

 

Dart at 400whp the internals are at it's breaking point with a dd and someone who gets on it 24/7 lol.. Main issues with people blowing is from the drivers. LNf pistons are junk end of story.

But yes a tune can help with a car blowing up, but most of the time cars blow with 400+ from there drivers

 

which is why i DD the car on 23psi

that being said, id invest in some sort of boost controller if you DD the car so if you can run low boost and have some fun without blowing your **** up. lol

 

^ smart man. But remember having a mbc isn't always good. Once the car relears it's self and if the car gets off far enough in a certain cell it can and will get kr. But most of the time it's fine

 

ive been running mine for a few months and i dont get KR, even on 29 psi pulls. i watch my interceptor religiously. and before you say anything about 29psi, its at 26 by 7200.

 

so, just a tranny, pistons, and valve springs is needed over 400whp?

 

Lmfao. Just because you don't get kr doesn't mean your trims arent skewed... I'm saying you have the possibility of hitting a cell that is to skewed which can cause kr and which can also cause your car to blow.
And your rev is 7200, yikes lol
Op yes pistons are ****. Rods and etc can hold a great amount.

 

thanks james..wiseco only option?

 

i only did that a couple times, and lost rockers because of that a while back

i have never heard of an MBC skewing trims enought to make your car blow tho. whose that happend to?

 

When you change the incoming airflow you hit different hertz within the tune so therefore you may hit a cel that hasn't been touched or a cell that is still learning from seeing two different airflow at a different load.

 

oh i see. well my fuel trims stay below 5 (ltft stays around 3) unless i turn the ac on for some reason.

i thought fuel trims werent active at WOT also, since the car runs open loop.

 

LNf wise no. But like with the Lsj fuel trims don't run other then ltft. Wot.

 

I was wondering the same thing.. I'm going with ful bolt ons, zzp stage one cams, and the zfr.. what are the most required internals to upgrade, also would it be beneficial to go stage 2 clutch and new tranny?. I never redline my car, but I do enjoy using the turbos potential

 

op, you will be fine if you get an mbc. ccss3, the load is the same across the maf with an mbc or the factory bcs, all is well.

i recommend an MBC for a high hp DD. adjustable boost is convenient.

the only thing id be careful with if you do, is you have to watch your boost levels daily, especially when the weather and temperature changes.

 

if your going to open the motor up might as well throw rods in too... little things to remeber youll need all new gaskets since they are crush gaskets i would recomend performance autowerks phenolic spacers. new rod bearings, arp head bolts, new cam bolt since the are TTY, there other bolts as well cant remember off the top of my head i have a list of things when i did my build i have a thread somewhere in here. do you have a clutch?

 

subd

 

Dart:

When you change boost aka pressure within the system that is a re strictuon. You change the load on te rpm which therefore changes the frequency you hit during that Tom. Which therefore can create knock.

I'll explain more.


If you hit 23lbs by 3500 rpm via your car and are tuned for it or whatever that's fine, but when you up the boost to a untuned 29 and reach that 29 through out that timing map it can create kr due to hertz unit during that load.

So therefore yes changing boost levels will create different loads.

 

its not untuned...

you think i got tuned on 23 psi and upped the boost or something? lol. bryan wouldnt let that happen.

 

Nm........

 

lol, i think he was saying changing the boost levels without being tuned for it will cause knock...i guess the same as if you tune your car on a stock turbo, you cant just slap on a different turbo that pushes more air and expect things to be okay...

 

i dont feel like arguing it in here. area47 knows his ****, and i trust his word over james.

id get some second opinions from other tuners if youre confused. term2 has his # posted under his sig. i can also get ahold of 06black.

 

^^ smh lol u need to go back and read it plz....

 

i dont know anything

 

lol