The Genuine SAAB one is 2x the height of the TR8. It's much more comparable to the TR11

 

Glad you guys decided to extend up rather then down. I scraped my Synapse IC a handful of times because it hung lower then the front lip, on the plus side though, it stopped the front lip from scraping

 

 

Im not sure if i like the way it looks..

 

Ronn
On multiple pulls keeping the temp within 10* of ambient air temps it really good with the TR8. On one pull the stocker could get up above 10* above ambient on my car. Every car is different for sure. And the stock intercooler is VERY good, contrary to what many peopl might say. But this is a very important performance gain. The closer you can stay to ambient the more air you can shove in the cylinder and the more power you get. The biggest issue I saw with the stocker was heat soak after multiple pulls. Even after a short cooling period on an 80* night in Tucson AZ my car was showing a 110 degree temp on the RPD on the dragstrip. Thats over 20 degrees higher... After 1 pull. I have done hard pulls with the setup I have now and I never got that high. The TR8 has more cooling area, even though it may appear smaller, it is thicker and taller than a stock intercooler. Not to mention that I have ALOT more power now and I run more boost. And all that can increase the IATs. So I think that, a 10* above ambient temp, on a hard pull, when the car is pushing 24lbs, and close to 400lbs/torque, is pretty good

 

Holy crap, that's cheap. Got my vote by a mile.

 

so whens that turbo kit coming out hahah....Sick product you made here never seem to stop amazing me

 

Glad to see it's working well for you...it certainly isn't hurting!
thanks for all the feedback.

 

Hey Ronn, Just glad I can help. Hopefully you can make an educated decision when you make a decision on the balt when the time comes. The whole idea behind a forum, in my eyes, is to share info, compare notes and give feedback. This is all hopefully a help so people can make the right decisions for their needs later on. Obviously for a street driven vehicle the TR8 is great for ground clearance. The ZZP is probably the best performer cuz of the size and efficiency. But a TR8 is good choice for a daily driven and sometimes tracked vehicle. Its a good combo for most cars out there. I love the thing really, great performance, and good clearance. I don't plan on lowering it anytime soon, but as you know caltrans maintains roads here like bums. SO its nice to have the clearance when I'm driving around and the performance when I take it to the strip and the road course.

 

No, he said RISE ABOVE AMBIENT, not DROP IN HEATED CHARGE:

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Yeah. It goes behind the crash bar! Plus it's thicker. And weight? OMG.

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Instead of taking a shot UPWARDS, put it up on a lift like I did, smack the top of the camera against the bottom of the IC at the driver side end and shoot straight and level to the passenger side. You're sure not going to see THIS:

 

GroupBuy Anyone! come treadstone i want one!

 

yeah, I was just looking at their website too. I must have been thinking about the TR11 model.

 

Look closer, 'cause welded-up end tanks don't look anything like cast end tanks to me.

 

I don't think I understand what you mean by "welded-up end tanks". Cause it looks like to me that both IC's have the end tanks welded to the core. Aside from the fact that genuine saab has polished end tanks, I can't really notice that much difference.

 

Yeah looks like they changed, I remember a pic with built up end tanks. And the old ones did crack, see this thread. The Crazy Steve might be OK, mixed reports on fitup. No news lately, so buy one, and come back and tell us how it works out!

 

yeah, the only thing that sucks honestly about the geuine saab one is the brackets. But you can easily take it to a metal fab shop and they can fab some better stuff. That's what I'm doing with mine. Definitely a one up for TR though. Looks like they have elongated brackets so you can actually adjust the fitment to your liking. I'm assuming that you have to take off the crash bar for the TR intercooler as well?

 

The brackets are perfectly positioned to put the inlet and outlet (ends of the elbows) in the stock locations, so I wouldn't adjust anything. The IC goes behind the crash bar.

Bolt the brackets, slot positioned at the top, wings of the brackets canted toward the back of the car,0 to the IC using washers and lockwashers. Tighten so the bracket can be budged rotationally just a tad with deliberate effort, like bumping with the heel of your hand. Due to limited clearance, you are not going to be able to tighten them after mounting the IC to the car.



Remove the one innermost crash bar bolt per side. Loosen up the two outer crash bar bolts so the crash bar stands off the car by 1/4". Slide the mounts down behind the crash bar to line up with the innermost crash bar holes. Reinsert the bolts. Tighten. This will bend the brackets to a perfect fit as shown below.

 

You can purchase here
Cobalt Intercooler Kit, Beta- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

Group buys never work for me, but i guess if we can arrange 10 kits, we can do $250 each kit?

 

Does this work well with the stock lower charge piping?

 

Ill trade you a much of HID kits for a intercooler haha. Start a GB thread, im SURE we could easliy get enough people.

 

I'd definately buy it, I just want to make sure itll work with stock charge piping

 

Read the thread, It tells you how to make sure it fits correctly

 

I love the ground clearance but I wish the core was longer as it would help reduce IAT2s more.

 

Yes, Just read. Sounds good. I agree with what Term said as well though. It should be longer. Is there advantages/disadvantages for having it like this?

Just comparing this to stock.

Stock: Core Size, 6.25" X 28" X 3.1"
Treadstone: Core Size, 7.8" X 22" X 3.5"

 

Yeah, however the stock is a little tighter than aftermarket, so a little KY jelly or soapy water would help you ease the aluminum elbows into the stock rubber connectors. Take your time and be careful not to damage the stock rubber connectors, especially when getting them off the stock IC.

If you're stock, you just trashed your stock IC, and you're on a budget, the best solution is to get a free stock IC from someone who upgraded. If they knocked the driver side plastic condensation tank clip off, you can either try to patch it up somehow, or unscrew the tank and plug the drain holes with epoxy (do this before you put it on the car so you can keep it out of the cold, and give it the recommended curing time).

If you're stock, you just trashed your stock IC, you're on a budget, AND you can't find a free or cheap stock IC, AND you're not worried about warranty, the TR8 only slightly more expensive than a new stock IC from oempartsforless.com (and it's much better).

If you're looking for a performance upgrade, I'd go for a tune, DP, CAI or SRI, and charge pipes before I'd buy an IC. Actually the only reason I was looking for a new IC is (1) I trashed the stocker plus (2) I bought a turbo upgrade. Otherwise I was just gonna trash the condensation tank and JB Weld the holes closed.