Treadstone Intercooler Kit
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Treadstone Intercooler Kit
Due to popular demand, we want to be able to adapter one of our TR8, or TR12 universal intercoolers that we give in our kit for the LNF to work with stock piping. Unfortunately when we first made the kit, we did a away with this option, but no all people want or need to replace the piping.
Brackets for the intercooler are done.
Driver side pipe: The one we have made will bolt to stock piping with just a coupler, so that is done.
Driver Side: We made a whole new up pipe. So what we need to do is just cut a 2.5" 90 degree pipe down to the right length to bolt on to sock piping with a coupler.
If someone whats to take on this task, all they have to do is measure the pipe on the passenger side, cut it to length take some pics, and report back.
Who ever is up for the task can get an intercooler kit at 50% off retail price.
When all is done, we will be able to offer the TR8 intercooler as a direct bolt on for under $300
Brackets for the intercooler are done.
Driver side pipe: The one we have made will bolt to stock piping with just a coupler, so that is done.
Driver Side: We made a whole new up pipe. So what we need to do is just cut a 2.5" 90 degree pipe down to the right length to bolt on to sock piping with a coupler.
If someone whats to take on this task, all they have to do is measure the pipe on the passenger side, cut it to length take some pics, and report back.
Who ever is up for the task can get an intercooler kit at 50% off retail price.
When all is done, we will be able to offer the TR8 intercooler as a direct bolt on for under $300
#7
I'm up for this. But I'd mount the bottom of the IC 1/2" higher than the bottom of the condensation tank on the stocker.
This is because it's very easy to scrape the plastic condensation tank mount on the pavement, but with a stocker the tank is pretty much structurally independent of the IC, so we can throw the tank in the trash, epoxy up the holes and drive on.
If we smash any part of the solidly-assembled IC core, that's much worse. So a full half inch added to the clearance of the bottom of a tankless IC would be a good precaution.
Also it would be an important selling feature for folks like me who are replacing a scraped IC and want to make sure they'll never have to replace it again.
This high mounting can lift the top of the IC out of the best of the airstream. If an IC were a type of radiator, shedding heat as it was generated, this would be less than optimal. However, I subscribe to Julian Edgar's proposition that, far from being any kind of radiator--which is how most folks perceive the IC--it is rather a heat sink, or a heat storage device that need not get rid of heat at the same rate it gains it.
In other words, when we're on the boost, compression heat is stored in the aluminum of the IC for later disposal. Yes, air passing through the fins removes heat from the aluminum, but even more, it is the air moving through the inside of the intercooler which does this (Julian has observed this phenomenon for a long time--he goes even further with his state-change IC idea, but it's so different you'd spend a fortune trying to convince folks it works).
Another thing worth nailing down is a good flexible mounting system. Rubber isolators would be not so much to provide flex in case of impact, but mainly to provide isolation from vibration to protect against mechanical failure for the life of the car.
This is because it's very easy to scrape the plastic condensation tank mount on the pavement, but with a stocker the tank is pretty much structurally independent of the IC, so we can throw the tank in the trash, epoxy up the holes and drive on.
If we smash any part of the solidly-assembled IC core, that's much worse. So a full half inch added to the clearance of the bottom of a tankless IC would be a good precaution.
Also it would be an important selling feature for folks like me who are replacing a scraped IC and want to make sure they'll never have to replace it again.
This high mounting can lift the top of the IC out of the best of the airstream. If an IC were a type of radiator, shedding heat as it was generated, this would be less than optimal. However, I subscribe to Julian Edgar's proposition that, far from being any kind of radiator--which is how most folks perceive the IC--it is rather a heat sink, or a heat storage device that need not get rid of heat at the same rate it gains it.
In other words, when we're on the boost, compression heat is stored in the aluminum of the IC for later disposal. Yes, air passing through the fins removes heat from the aluminum, but even more, it is the air moving through the inside of the intercooler which does this (Julian has observed this phenomenon for a long time--he goes even further with his state-change IC idea, but it's so different you'd spend a fortune trying to convince folks it works).
Another thing worth nailing down is a good flexible mounting system. Rubber isolators would be not so much to provide flex in case of impact, but mainly to provide isolation from vibration to protect against mechanical failure for the life of the car.
Last edited by pbass; 01-27-2011 at 09:24 AM.
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@ PBASS:
Having mounted the TR8 on my car I can assure you that it mounts higher than the stock one by quite a bit. I didn't get measurements but it is more than 1/2 and inch. It's a really quality piece and I didn't use any rubber isolation mounting anything. Many people on here just solid mount intercoolers like this. Since you don't have to worry about damn plastic endcaps there isn't much of a reason to rubber mount it. If you get it, enjoy! It helps me sustain very close to ambient air temps on multiple pulls when the stocker would begin to warm up. I run about 2 - 4 degrees above ambient air temps usually.
Having mounted the TR8 on my car I can assure you that it mounts higher than the stock one by quite a bit. I didn't get measurements but it is more than 1/2 and inch. It's a really quality piece and I didn't use any rubber isolation mounting anything. Many people on here just solid mount intercoolers like this. Since you don't have to worry about damn plastic endcaps there isn't much of a reason to rubber mount it. If you get it, enjoy! It helps me sustain very close to ambient air temps on multiple pulls when the stocker would begin to warm up. I run about 2 - 4 degrees above ambient air temps usually.
#10
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@ PBASS:
Having mounted the TR8 on my car I can assure you that it mounts higher than the stock one by quite a bit. I didn't get measurements but it is more than 1/2 and inch. It's a really quality piece and I didn't use any rubber isolation mounting anything. Many people on here just solid mount intercoolers like this. Since you don't have to worry about damn plastic endcaps there isn't much of a reason to rubber mount it. If you get it, enjoy! It helps me sustain very close to ambient air temps on multiple pulls when the stocker would begin to warm up. I run about 2 - 4 degrees above ambient air temps usually.
Having mounted the TR8 on my car I can assure you that it mounts higher than the stock one by quite a bit. I didn't get measurements but it is more than 1/2 and inch. It's a really quality piece and I didn't use any rubber isolation mounting anything. Many people on here just solid mount intercoolers like this. Since you don't have to worry about damn plastic endcaps there isn't much of a reason to rubber mount it. If you get it, enjoy! It helps me sustain very close to ambient air temps on multiple pulls when the stocker would begin to warm up. I run about 2 - 4 degrees above ambient air temps usually.
#12
It's a really quality piece and I didn't use any rubber isolation mounting anything. Many people on here just solid mount intercoolers like this. Since you don't have to worry about damn plastic endcaps there isn't much of a reason to rubber mount it.
If you get it, enjoy! It helps me sustain very close to ambient air temps on multiple pulls when the stocker would begin to warm up. I run about 2 - 4 degrees above ambient air temps usually.
#13
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Welds are phenomenal on mine. all the vibration of the motor and such is isolated cuz of motor mounts anyways. And rubber mounts aren't gonna do a whole lot on big road bumps or something like that. I can see what you are saying for piece of mind and such but I don't have a problem with it myself. Having done plenty of welding myself in the past, I am not worried unless I hit something... Which almost happened yesterday actually, damn coyote ran out of the bushes at my car I was doing like 60 down a 2 lane road, almost pissed myself.
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Dibs are back up for grabs on the intercooler i had to order one due to my factory one being so bad and in need of the car. I ordered a different one and had it overnighted. Is a little cheaper than treadstones but im not sure about quality till i see it in person. Wish i could have gone with treadstones but I was in a desperate situation and couldnt wait another day.
#22
Thanks Treadstone, now I have a new project!
OK, he's sending me the GT8 IC with brackets plus two 90° aluminum elbows, and (I guess) two 90° silicone elbows and two straight connectors, $175.
He wants me to cut the aluminum elbows so the IC rides at stock height and send him the measurements.
But he says the bracket allows for vertical adjustment.
Since I want the measurements for the IC higher than stock height, I'll cut the longer length first and measure, then cut and measure the shorter length.
He said once finalized, he can send me the powder coated and bead rolled finished pieces. I'm hoping he can do that for my higher mount (longer elbows, I'd guess).
He's shipping tomorrow, so it'll probably be done early next week.
OK, he's sending me the GT8 IC with brackets plus two 90° aluminum elbows, and (I guess) two 90° silicone elbows and two straight connectors, $175.
He wants me to cut the aluminum elbows so the IC rides at stock height and send him the measurements.
But he says the bracket allows for vertical adjustment.
Since I want the measurements for the IC higher than stock height, I'll cut the longer length first and measure, then cut and measure the shorter length.
He said once finalized, he can send me the powder coated and bead rolled finished pieces. I'm hoping he can do that for my higher mount (longer elbows, I'd guess).
He's shipping tomorrow, so it'll probably be done early next week.
Last edited by pbass; 01-27-2011 at 05:48 PM.
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Thanks Treadstone, now I have a new project!
OK, he's sending me the GT8 IC with brackets plus two 90° aluminum elbows, and (I guess) two 90° silicone elbows and two straight connectors, $175.
He wants me to cut the aluminum elbows so the IC rides at stock height and send him the measurements.
But he says the bracket allows for vertical adjustment.
Since I want the measurements for the IC higher than stock height, I'll cut the longer length first and measure, then cut and measure the shorter length.
He said once finalized, he can send me the powder coated and bead rolled finished pieces. I'm hoping he can do that for my higher mount (longer elbows, I'd guess).
He's shipping tomorrow, so it'll probably be done early next week.
OK, he's sending me the GT8 IC with brackets plus two 90° aluminum elbows, and (I guess) two 90° silicone elbows and two straight connectors, $175.
He wants me to cut the aluminum elbows so the IC rides at stock height and send him the measurements.
But he says the bracket allows for vertical adjustment.
Since I want the measurements for the IC higher than stock height, I'll cut the longer length first and measure, then cut and measure the shorter length.
He said once finalized, he can send me the powder coated and bead rolled finished pieces. I'm hoping he can do that for my higher mount (longer elbows, I'd guess).
He's shipping tomorrow, so it'll probably be done early next week.
#25
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Here is a picture... Hope this is kinda what you are looking for as far as an example of how the intercooler hangs. It is from my phone... Basically I put the top of the phone against the bottom of the intercooler and took the picture.