What is stock clutch torque capacity?
11-19-2012, 10:31 PM
#26
There is no point in discussing clutch use on this forum. As a kid I went through transmissions like pretzels in a bar. Clutches not so much.
Now after way too many years in the trade, I stand by my comment, 90% of clutch issues are driver related. Take it as it is or leave it.
Now after way too many years in the trade, I stand by my comment, 90% of clutch issues are driver related. Take it as it is or leave it.
11-19-2012, 11:22 PM
#30
Senior Member
I don't think it was ever published anywhere, but I believe I read somewhere that the LNF stock clutch is rated at around 300 HP/325 TQ.
I wish I could remember where I read it, but I think it was in one of the GMPP articles at some point in time.
I wish I could remember where I read it, but I think it was in one of the GMPP articles at some point in time.
11-20-2012, 08:00 AM
#31
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I've been rocking 402 WTQ on mine for about two and a half years, and Nathan's been at 421 WTQ for about a year now. Stock clutch will hold probably more than that though.
11-24-2012, 01:48 PM
#34
Senior Member
helll yeah. My stock clutch seems to be just fine.. and i was at 27psi on the ko4 for a while... and im still at 358wtq at 21 psi on stock clutch and I get on it every once in awhile... I feel as if it is the driver.. IMO on the stock clutch...
11-24-2012, 01:53 PM
#35
Senior Member
One time.. One time when I was at 27psi I did come around a turn and got centered and it had just stopped raining before I entered the gym so It was a little wet when I got out and I had this kid with me that is soooo obsessed with the fox bodys and fords and **** and he always talking mad **** about how slow my car was and we turned the corner and I stomped 1st and clutched 2nd and nls through 3rd and 4th just spinniing all the way. Well when I hit 4th I glazzed her pree good and let off. the kid didnt know it but i did lol then we did a pull with some traction and he was pretty impressed.. Moral of the story.. Clutch life is all in the drive.
^^ Everyone has one of them stories hahaha
x2
Last edited by Cobe; 11-24-2012 at 01:53 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
11-24-2012, 05:41 PM
#37
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the people that have a stock clutch still are either only getting on it from a 3rd gear roll or not ever getting on it. luck is the only factor. there are many of us that drive fine and rarely get on it and still need a new clutch by 50k miles.
11-24-2012, 06:22 PM
#39
I've ran my E85 tune @26psi for two summers now, including many road track visits. This setup dyno'd at 418wtq and this August I felt my clutch slip a tiny bit for the first time in 3rd gear on a cold morning. I agree it's dependent on the driver but also I don't drag race my car which I have to believe makes a big difference.
Just bought the ZFR turbo during ZZP's BF sale, and I do plan on getting an aftermarket clutch.
Just bought the ZFR turbo during ZZP's BF sale, and I do plan on getting an aftermarket clutch.
11-24-2012, 06:27 PM
#40
Senior Member
I've ran my E85 tune @26psi for two summers now, including many road track visits. This setup dyno'd at 418wtq and this August I felt my clutch slip a tiny bit for the first time in 3rd gear on a cold morning. I agree it's dependent on the driver but also I don't drag race my car which I have to believe makes a big difference.
Just bought the ZFR turbo during ZZP's BF sale, and I do plan on getting an aftermarket clutch.
Just bought the ZFR turbo during ZZP's BF sale, and I do plan on getting an aftermarket clutch.
11-24-2012, 10:45 PM
#41
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i have about 40 passes on my stock clutch. I got my car with 31k miles and it has 47k now, so I have no idea how the car was driven before i got it, but i do know i drive 250 miles per week back and forth to work and thats it. So i dont know, but on my end, there is def NO driver error.
I will be trying the gmpp clutch though to see how it does with 400wtq...
I will be trying the gmpp clutch though to see how it does with 400wtq...
11-25-2012, 09:17 AM
#42
^^^^this. These comments always generate hugh negative response, its worse on the SAAB forums, but it is 100% true. It is shocking to me how many people have no clue about clutch use, and yet are convinced they are brilliant manual shift drivers. Sad to say. I do know about this subject, I have been to hell and back on this; I have run high performance racing and driving schools since 1971....thats a loooong time lol
11-25-2012, 09:27 AM
#43
Senior Member
^^^^this. These comments always generate hugh negative response, its worse on the SAAB forums, but it is 100% true. It is shocking to me how many people have no clue about clutch use, and yet are convinced they are brilliant manual shift drivers. Sad to say. I do know about this subject, I have been to hell and back on this; I have run high performance racing and driving schools since 1971....thats a loooong time lol
However, I do know how to properly drive a manual transmission. I've had plenty of experience, plenty of 5-speeds. I've NEVER demolished a clutch. I'll catch hell for posting the simple truth, so be it.
11-25-2012, 10:44 AM
#44
Most people think if they can drive a manual trans without grinding gears or stalling then they are experts at it. Its a good start but says nothing about bad habits that can really shorten your clutches life. Add in a modded car with a lot more power than stock and your margin for error goes away quick.
11-25-2012, 06:33 PM
#45
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so why dont you state some "bad habits" that you think people are doing to shorten the life of their clutch???...
1.
2.
3.
1.
2.
3.
Last edited by AARON-SS-TC; 11-25-2012 at 07:12 PM.
11-25-2012, 07:34 PM
#47
2. Failing to match revs on the down shift, causing the clutch pressure plate to be partially disengaged, and/or dragging the engine down to the mismatched gear speed therefore overheating/glazing both clutch disc and pressure plate .
3. Failing to shift into neutral and releasing clutch pedal completely at extended stops at lights or in heavy stop and go traffic, therefore putting excessive load on the pressure plate and overheating the tob.
4. Rushing the shift and failing to completely release the clutch pedal so the clutch pressure plate cannot properly clamp the disc, causing overheating/glazing of both the clutch disc and the pressure plate.
there is more.
11-25-2012, 07:42 PM
#48
Senior Member
The thing I've always wondered is, what should you do after a highway pull? Shift into neutral or get into 5th gear via rev matching right away? Normally I shift neutral, then rev match to 5th once I've slowed a bit.
11-25-2012, 09:21 PM
#50
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1.Riding clutch pedal. EG: failing to return left foot to deadpedal after completely releasing clutch in first gear, therefore resting foot on clutch pedal until second gear shift is executed; this habit leaves residual pressure on the pressure plate, reducing clamping force and overheating /glazing clutch disc and pressure plate.
2. Failing to match revs on the down shift, causing the clutch pressure plate to be partially disengaged, and/or dragging the engine down to the mismatched gear speed therefore overheating/glazing both clutch disc and pressure plate .
3. Failing to shift into neutral and releasing clutch pedal completely at extended stops at lights or in heavy stop and go traffic, therefore putting excessive load on the pressure plate and overheating the tob.
4. Rushing the shift and failing to completely release the clutch pedal so the clutch pressure plate cannot properly clamp the disc, causing overheating/glazing of both the clutch disc and the pressure plate.
there is more.
2. Failing to match revs on the down shift, causing the clutch pressure plate to be partially disengaged, and/or dragging the engine down to the mismatched gear speed therefore overheating/glazing both clutch disc and pressure plate .
3. Failing to shift into neutral and releasing clutch pedal completely at extended stops at lights or in heavy stop and go traffic, therefore putting excessive load on the pressure plate and overheating the tob.
4. Rushing the shift and failing to completely release the clutch pedal so the clutch pressure plate cannot properly clamp the disc, causing overheating/glazing of both the clutch disc and the pressure plate.
there is more.
Like i said earlier too though, i have no idea what happened the first 30k miles of my cars life, but the last 17k by me has been great driving.
I think common sense is needed when driving a manual car to preserve it, pending you havent exceeded the torque capacity, and at that point, its hit or miss.
Thanks for the reply