What is stock clutch torque capacity?
11-25-2012, 11:11 PM
#52
Senior Member
There is no point in discussing clutch use on this forum. As a kid I went through transmissions like pretzels in a bar. Clutches not so much.
Now after way too many years in the trade, I stand by my comment, 90% of clutch issues are driver related. Take it as it is or leave it.
Now after way too many years in the trade, I stand by my comment, 90% of clutch issues are driver related. Take it as it is or leave it.
Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha
12-04-2012, 09:13 PM
#54
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1.Riding clutch pedal. EG: failing to return left foot to deadpedal after completely releasing clutch in first gear, therefore resting foot on clutch pedal until second gear shift is executed; this habit leaves residual pressure on the pressure plate, reducing clamping force and overheating /glazing clutch disc and pressure plate.
2. Failing to match revs on the down shift, causing the clutch pressure plate to be partially disengaged, and/or dragging the engine down to the mismatched gear speed therefore overheating/glazing both clutch disc and pressure plate .
3. Failing to shift into neutral and releasing clutch pedal completely at extended stops at lights or in heavy stop and go traffic, therefore putting excessive load on the pressure plate and overheating the tob.
4. Rushing the shift and failing to completely release the clutch pedal so the clutch pressure plate cannot properly clamp the disc, causing overheating/glazing of both the clutch disc and the pressure plate.
there is more.
2. Failing to match revs on the down shift, causing the clutch pressure plate to be partially disengaged, and/or dragging the engine down to the mismatched gear speed therefore overheating/glazing both clutch disc and pressure plate .
3. Failing to shift into neutral and releasing clutch pedal completely at extended stops at lights or in heavy stop and go traffic, therefore putting excessive load on the pressure plate and overheating the tob.
4. Rushing the shift and failing to completely release the clutch pedal so the clutch pressure plate cannot properly clamp the disc, causing overheating/glazing of both the clutch disc and the pressure plate.
there is more.
12-04-2012, 10:16 PM
#55
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When I was a kid, I called BS on rev-matching the downshift, didn't believe it made a difference...
When I broke my third clutch around ~20k KM while downshifting, I thought, hmmmm maybe there is something to rev-matching on the downshift.
I have tuned many LNFs on the dyno, I have seen clutches hold 370wtq with people who ride the **** out of the clutch every time they start moving, and I have seen clutches slip at 340wtq with people who seem to drive perfectly (these are all 3rd gear dyno pulls when I am talking about slipping).
I have never seen a stock clutch slip below 330wtq, so I would say any stock clutch that isn't destroyed should hold 330wtq. Some will hold well over 400 though, I think there is a lot of luck involved in the high tq holding clutches.
My favorite bad habit is people hitting serious boost in 5th gear at 3k RPM... especially when tuned....
Kevin
When I broke my third clutch around ~20k KM while downshifting, I thought, hmmmm maybe there is something to rev-matching on the downshift.
I have tuned many LNFs on the dyno, I have seen clutches hold 370wtq with people who ride the **** out of the clutch every time they start moving, and I have seen clutches slip at 340wtq with people who seem to drive perfectly (these are all 3rd gear dyno pulls when I am talking about slipping).
I have never seen a stock clutch slip below 330wtq, so I would say any stock clutch that isn't destroyed should hold 330wtq. Some will hold well over 400 though, I think there is a lot of luck involved in the high tq holding clutches.
My favorite bad habit is people hitting serious boost in 5th gear at 3k RPM... especially when tuned....
Kevin
12-05-2012, 08:48 AM
#57
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I'm shopping for a clutch but my stock clutch has been okay for 1 year at 400ft lbs with 350whp. I don't go WOT very often but I do go to the track (drag) every summer.
I am thinking about getting ZZP Stage 3, GMPP or Clutchmaster Stage 3. They seem to be mild enough but better than stock LNF clutch. Still trying to read up on them to get a full understanding to make my decision. The cheapest of the 3 is GMPP and can influence my decision making process.
As for my driving habits I don't go WOT very often and when I do it's at 3000rpm or higher. I got this idea from MS3 owners. I figured if they do it to save there engine I should too.
I am thinking about getting ZZP Stage 3, GMPP or Clutchmaster Stage 3. They seem to be mild enough but better than stock LNF clutch. Still trying to read up on them to get a full understanding to make my decision. The cheapest of the 3 is GMPP and can influence my decision making process.
As for my driving habits I don't go WOT very often and when I do it's at 3000rpm or higher. I got this idea from MS3 owners. I figured if they do it to save there engine I should too.
12-05-2012, 10:54 AM
#59
I'm shopping for a clutch but my stock clutch has been okay for 1 year at 400ft lbs with 350whp. I don't go WOT very often but I do go to the track (drag) every summer.
I am thinking about getting ZZP Stage 3, GMPP or Clutchmaster Stage 3. They seem to be mild enough but better than stock LNF clutch. Still trying to read up on them to get a full understanding to make my decision. The cheapest of the 3 is GMPP and can influence my decision making process.
As for my driving habits I don't go WOT very often and when I do it's at 3000rpm or higher. I got this idea from MS3 owners. I figured if they do it to save there engine I should too.
I am thinking about getting ZZP Stage 3, GMPP or Clutchmaster Stage 3. They seem to be mild enough but better than stock LNF clutch. Still trying to read up on them to get a full understanding to make my decision. The cheapest of the 3 is GMPP and can influence my decision making process.
As for my driving habits I don't go WOT very often and when I do it's at 3000rpm or higher. I got this idea from MS3 owners. I figured if they do it to save there engine I should too.
Seriously though.... Leave well enough alone until a problem presents itself.
12-05-2012, 12:05 PM
#61
Senior Member
Save your money and buy another stock clutch + necessary hardware (slave, clutch pipe, FW bolts). If the stocker is holding well enough for you now, why take a chance at removing the one saving grace "weak link" and put additional stress on the trans/axles? If you want the peace of mind with an "upgrade" then buy the GMPP
Seriously though.... Leave well enough alone until a problem presents itself.
Seriously though.... Leave well enough alone until a problem presents itself.
12-05-2012, 01:37 PM
#62
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Good read, Powell is the man.. Im getting the ZFR soon was thinking about the clutch..But mine is absolutely fine at the moment no slipping or anything. I rarely go WOT tho playing around or at the track. I'll buy a GMPP and have it on stand by.
Good read again.
Good read again.
02-04-2015, 12:15 AM
#66
I wouldn't get the ky clutch for the zfr. I had the ky for stock turbo, worked fine, didn't like the feel of it much. after a year of having it threw on the zfr. made around 400wtq, stage 3 plus couldn't take it. high speed runs and after smelled nothing but buring clutch.
02-18-2015, 05:05 PM
#67
1.Riding clutch pedal. EG: failing to return left foot to deadpedal after completely releasing clutch in first gear, therefore resting foot on clutch pedal until second gear shift is executed; this habit leaves residual pressure on the pressure plate, reducing clamping force and overheating /glazing clutch disc and pressure plate.
2. Failing to match revs on the down shift, causing the clutch pressure plate to be partially disengaged, and/or dragging the engine down to the mismatched gear speed therefore overheating/glazing both clutch disc and pressure plate .
3. Failing to shift into neutral and releasing clutch pedal completely at extended stops at lights or in heavy stop and go traffic, therefore putting excessive load on the pressure plate and overheating the tob.
4. Rushing the shift and failing to completely release the clutch pedal so the clutch pressure plate cannot properly clamp the disc, causing overheating/glazing of both the clutch disc and the pressure plate.
there is more.
2. Failing to match revs on the down shift, causing the clutch pressure plate to be partially disengaged, and/or dragging the engine down to the mismatched gear speed therefore overheating/glazing both clutch disc and pressure plate .
3. Failing to shift into neutral and releasing clutch pedal completely at extended stops at lights or in heavy stop and go traffic, therefore putting excessive load on the pressure plate and overheating the tob.
4. Rushing the shift and failing to completely release the clutch pedal so the clutch pressure plate cannot properly clamp the disc, causing overheating/glazing of both the clutch disc and the pressure plate.
there is more.
05-29-2016, 11:44 PM
#68
Mine is fine at around 350wtq. I know Nathan's has about 420wtq on the stock clutch or something crazy like that, but that was a pretty rare exception. Basically, if you want to do a turbo swap... you're going to need a new clutch. On stock turbo, the stock clutch can handle the power fine, might run into trouble if you're tuned for E though.
This is on the assumption that you don't suck at driving and you aren't going WOT at like 2k RPMs lol.
This is on the assumption that you don't suck at driving and you aren't going WOT at like 2k RPMs lol.
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Xxikennxx (05-30-2016)
05-30-2016, 10:56 AM
#70
So would it be acceptable to go about 1/2 throttle at 2k and then full throttle once you get to about 3-4K rpms?
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Xxikennxx (05-30-2016)
05-31-2016, 02:33 PM
#72
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
It's still pretty silly to not just down shift imo. If you're at 2000rpm 2nd gear, that's roughly 3700rpm in 1st. That's a pretty damn good sweet spot right there for a completely stock car. Like 63 Nova said, there's really no reason to lug the motor that low. This isn't a big block after all. 
05-31-2016, 06:03 PM
#73
It's still pretty silly to not just down shift imo. If you're at 2000rpm 2nd gear, that's roughly 3700rpm in 1st. That's a pretty damn good sweet spot right there for a completely stock car. Like 63 Nova said, there's really no reason to lug the motor that low. This isn't a big block after all.