they are gonna check to make sure that they have the right flash on the computer, and possible reflash the stage 1 tune on it.

The lower sensor is secured, I even put silicone around the hole that it goes into...... The only thing I can think of is that it needs to b soldered or something.

Also, if it was a leak, it would have to be in the charge pipes or ic right? And it would have to be a boost leak? I'm gonna throw the stock charge pipes on to see what happens

 

Uh, dumb question, but what kind of silicone, and did you let it airdry? You coulda just blown the map up, it happens. I already went through one tmap myself.

@bad, I doubt its a leak, it'd have to be pretty huge though to set that code. With the surging at idle and a recent gms1 install and that code, telltale signs of fucked up wiring or a blown map. Or a wrong calibration.

 

More than likely you have a loose wire connection on your lower T-map sensor. I would double check all of the connectors they used.

 

I planon doing that tomorrow.

It was the high temp copper silicone.... Yes I let it air dry

I checked the wires of the lower tmap sensor and they are all secured tightly.... No chaf marks, or anything on the wires..... Could be a bad map sensor..... Shouldn't be a boost leak because I have all stock charge piping on it.....

 

Could it be the lower map sensor.....the dealer said it's reading so they didn't think it was that. Idunno i'm up for ideas tho

 

Bump.... Should I order a new map sensor to try..... I'm willing to give anything a shot.....

Could my wastegate actuator be sticking and just notthrowing a code?

 

A sensor would be pretty cheap, so that would be a good place to start.

 

I know, I just don't wanna start throwing money at the car and still
not fix it.

That's what warrenty is for lol.... So far, no luck with that

 

Well, you'll have an extra sensor if it doesn't work.

 

Is there a way to test the lower map sensor....also what else should I check.... Any suggestions.

Anyhow, I just ordered a new lower map sensor.... I'm praying that this will work.

 

Keeping an eye on this thread as I've had a similar problem.

Mine surfaced during the winter without GMS1, and then suddenly went away (figured it was the temperatures messing with the wastegate or something, dealer was clueless). Got GMS1 ran like a champ for a while, then it resurfaced, this time it's summer.

LTFT 10.2 for an all stock (+GMS1)

The amusing part for mine is I can hit the throttle to about 50% and watch the boost gauge shoot up to 25+ PSI. And it sounds absolutely horrible when I let off the gas.

But overall relatively the same symptoms, limping along at full throttle from time to time.

 

I'm debating on having my gm stage kit removed.... So may people are having issues with it.... My sensor is hitting in the ac and no matter what I do, and how many times I were to adjust it, the pipe is so flexable that it will go back to hitting the ac again.

Would anything bad happen if I were to rewire my stock lower map sensor in just to see if the gm 3bar is the issue.... If it's a bad idea, how could I test the sensor/ wires?

I'm really starting to believe that this gms1 kit is causing my problems

 

Swapping back to the stock sensor should mess with your fueling quite a bit I believe (to the point of throwing a code more than likely) You'll also obviously have to resolder the old connector back on. Take this statement lightly though as I'm still pretty lacking when it comes to automotive knowledge

But if I'm not mistaking how the whole thing works, should end up making it run very rich.

 

I dunno, I'm very desperate to get this fixed tho....willing to try anything before my patients get the best of me and the car goes bye bye!

Car was working like **** and wouldn't boost.... Got a cel and called onstar.... They said there was an issue with my turbocharge system and it threw a p0238 code this time instead of a p0236.

 

I've also been having very similar problems. Sometimes the car is fine, and then then minutes later (it can be with or without a restart) it starts running like ****, making only about 6 psi. Some days while it does this, there is a terrible flutter between shifts, but other days there is not. I finally threw the check engine light yesterday after having intermittent problems for the past month or so, which I was happy about because the dealer basically always says nothing is wrong with the car. Tomorrow I am taking the car in so I'll let you know what I find out...if anything.

...and I forgot, there is a little bit of black splatter in my garage right where my exhaust is for warmup purposes, and lately every once in a while during shifts I get a very loud very deep backfire that is nothing like the rest of the normal gurgles. One day I had just left my house and the car was backfiring like that between every shift for about a 1/4 mile unitl I hit a stop sign, it then was surging at idle between about 800rpm and 1500rpm, I reset the car and the surge went away, but the backfires did not. After driving about a mile and a half it stopped backfiring, started boosting and was fine again, with no other reset of the car. I don't know if any of this pertains to the other problems that the OP and others are describing, but I figured I would throw it out there.

 

you have a leak somewhere.... that is the infamous leak code....

 

A boost leak or vacuum leak

I don't understand where it would be leakin to.....unless it's the boost solenoid or the bpv causing a boost leak.... I don't know. I have the stock intercooler.... It did the same with my synapse, I have the dejon hard pipes and it did the same thing even with the stock pipes. I still have the stock lower cp on....

 

take all back to stock source that leak

 

What???? Lol I don't understand.

If it was a bad boost leak, wouldn't I have no boost or low boost all the time.... I'm still boosting 19-21 psi.... That hasn't dropped from what it was when I first got the kit installed.

 

lol u have a leak either post turbo or not something is causing your whacked trims its usually a leak!!!

 

I pmd you.... Do you have msn?

Also the car threw the p0238 code so I dropped it off at the dealer today...

Before turbo as in the manifold, dp or what

 

Have you tried disconnecting the Evap Purge Solenoid electrical connector (on the front of the engine on the intake manifold - there's another recent thread here with photos). That's not likely the problem based on your symptoms, but it did cause whacked fuel trims for me and it's a very quick thing to check! I can't believe how much better my car runs without it, I think everyone should try it

 

I tried that and it didn't seem to make a difference

 

my car threw that code too... I thought it was the BPV solenoid as did the dealer... they replaced it all including the turbo and still had the issue...

What it was.... was a crack in my intercooler.


I would just check EVERYTHING with a fine tooth comb.... there is a leak somewhere.... Where I don' tknow

 

Hmmm.... What's the best way to do a leak test and include the turbo into the test.