when 'good tunes' go bad......
hey if i had a tune and thought something was off, i would contact tuner, and yes they are gonna sigh and be like "wtf, leave me alone" but u pay good money for that. certainly make sure its a true engine problem from your tune before u start calling a tuner complaining bout his tune. after all there are things as u mentioned like wheel slip,rpms, bosst relationship that can cause symptoms similiar to a bad engine hesistating. but with new plugs and v power and a fairly mild tune, i dont see how a tuner can blow up an engine. can see it with tons of modding and really high boost though.
So many people here on this site have aftermarket tunes. Whether it be canned or one exported by a local tuner. And I don't ever expect anyone here to post stories when they are having serious motor issues due to a bad or careless tune. Now I know that sometimes it's an owner started issue (cheap gas, beating on car etc) but what about when its just a BAD crappy tune? What typically causes a tune to wreck or blow up an engine? Is it due to a stupid careless mistake? Or can a tune just end up being bad despite good experience,knowledge and time? And does this happen alot with lnf's or is this a tough durable engine?? I'm not talking about wasted clutches/trannies, just motors. So I was just wonderin if anyone has messed up their engine due to a crappy tune? How did u handle it? Privately with tuner? Or publically? Ouch!!! Touchy subject perhaps but certainly worthy of discussion...
The problem with cars like the LNF that are "easy" to tune is that everyone thinks they can go buy HPTuners and become a tuner. People think they can just go throw in some random DALs, put the MAL at 100%, change the PE lambda to .88, and then go screw with the spark table and have some monster cobalt. Then when they blow up cars and everyone bitches it gives the good tuners a bad name.
Also, regardless of the tune, if you beat the ever loving **** out of your car it will eventually blow up. If you want a tune that pushes every last bit of power out of the car, don't expect it to last for a long time. If you want a "safe" tune, don't expect to be running flat 12 second 1/4s.
hey term, how do you handle the clutch slip? do you pedal the throttle right when it starts to slip and then ease back into it? or do you just keep it floored the whole time and wait for it to catch? how long has it been slipping on you? has it gotten any worse? i'm just wondering, because i'm just starting to experience this myself.
hey if i had a tune and thought something was off, i would contact tuner, and yes they are gonna sigh and be like "wtf, leave me alone" but u pay good money for that. certainly make sure its a true engine problem from your tune before u start calling a tuner complaining bout his tune. after all there are things as u mentioned like wheel slip,rpms, bosst relationship that can cause symptoms similiar to a bad engine hesistating. but with new plugs and v power and a fairly mild tune, i dont see how a tuner can blow up an engine. can see it with tons of modding and really high boost though.
"but with new plugs and v power and a fairly mild tune, i dont see how a tuner can blow up an engine. can see it with tons of modding and really high boost though."
This might just happen to find it's way into my sig lol
This might just happen to find it's way into my sig lol
I know right?? "ya there's no way you can wash your cyl. walls or run so lean to blow the engine or anything, because I have new plugs"
I went to BYT on a scheduled appt.
When i showed up, although we had emailed a set date, he had no idea i was coming.
Was supposed to get a trifecta/hp tune, vince didnt feel like working that day.
After 3 hours of installing parts, we went data loggin, and my motor blew after like 2 pulls @ 26 psi. This was a byt tune, not saying anythign bad about him, but that was my experience there.
When i showed up, although we had emailed a set date, he had no idea i was coming.
Was supposed to get a trifecta/hp tune, vince didnt feel like working that day.
After 3 hours of installing parts, we went data loggin, and my motor blew after like 2 pulls @ 26 psi. This was a byt tune, not saying anythign bad about him, but that was my experience there.
someone went to see him, she went there and he wasnt home. called him left a VM, even thought they had an appointment for that day..
i have a combo tune from byt. he mentioned a little bit of knock up top with our pulls but we never concluded that it was true detonation> maybe engine vibes with the sensitive mic?? but i changed out plugs with new oem replacements and always use v-power gas.
sometimes it hesistates at wot but i think thats me losing boost after wheels stop spinning at around 45mph in second gear. when wheels stop spinning the rpms drop down as well as boost, which initiates some lag. then it kicks back in once the rpms pick pick back up> atleast thats what i think it is?? idk, i'm not an expert on reading signs and symptoms, but if something comes up I will def contact tuner to see what to do. i ould eventually like a dp with a dyno tune as well , but not right now>>>>
sometimes it hesistates at wot but i think thats me losing boost after wheels stop spinning at around 45mph in second gear. when wheels stop spinning the rpms drop down as well as boost, which initiates some lag. then it kicks back in once the rpms pick pick back up> atleast thats what i think it is?? idk, i'm not an expert on reading signs and symptoms, but if something comes up I will def contact tuner to see what to do. i ould eventually like a dp with a dyno tune as well , but not right now>>>>
hey if i had a tune and thought something was off, i would contact tuner, and yes they are gonna sigh and be like "wtf, leave me alone" but u pay good money for that. certainly make sure its a true engine problem from your tune before u start calling a tuner complaining bout his tune. after all there are things as u mentioned like wheel slip,rpms, bosst relationship that can cause symptoms similiar to a bad engine hesistating. but with new plugs and v power and a fairly mild tune, i dont see how a tuner can blow up an engine. can see it with tons of modding and really high boost though.
I lived and learned, but thankfully I have a full understanding of forced induction and how it can go from wow to pow in a heartbeat. I DO NOT TUNE FOR OTHER LNF owners. I will tune diesels and LSx engines. The reason is almost entirely related to demographics, LNF owners are generally the youngest and most careless of performance oriented car owners so there is really no safe way to tune these cars without posturing blame on a tune as a convenient way to say they weren't flogging the crap out of their car at the time.
Some factors tuners generally aren't tracking that can be good to look at in the long run. Pyro temps (installing a pyro before turbo is probably the single greatest thing a owner can do for his car in his quest for more power because even if the tune is dead on you can crest 1600 degrees in a heartbeat and destroy a ring land with the full belief it was knock when it wasn't.
And I should point out that even with this ECM detecting valid knock at high rpm is difficult, that takes some processing beef to filter out the multitude of other noises in a motor.
Also, you should get into a tune ready to roll. Specifically, oil changed, maintenance done, even tire pressures, alignment, all of it plays into a good clean log. I don't tune cars or trucks with dirty/old oil, dirty filter, badly worn tires or if it doesn't drive in a straight line. I don't tune it if there has been modification the the wiring harness, this is mostly because it can cause reading problems. Most tuners know the above and will do a quick inspection of the car before they proceed further. If they don't that is your first warning flag, no offense but I take nobody at their word when speaking for the car/truck I am about to tune. ESPECIALLY diesels.
Some factors tuners generally aren't tracking that can be good to look at in the long run. Pyro temps (installing a pyro before turbo is probably the single greatest thing a owner can do for his car in his quest for more power because even if the tune is dead on you can crest 1600 degrees in a heartbeat and destroy a ring land with the full belief it was knock when it wasn't.
And I should point out that even with this ECM detecting valid knock at high rpm is difficult, that takes some processing beef to filter out the multitude of other noises in a motor.
Also, you should get into a tune ready to roll. Specifically, oil changed, maintenance done, even tire pressures, alignment, all of it plays into a good clean log. I don't tune cars or trucks with dirty/old oil, dirty filter, badly worn tires or if it doesn't drive in a straight line. I don't tune it if there has been modification the the wiring harness, this is mostly because it can cause reading problems. Most tuners know the above and will do a quick inspection of the car before they proceed further. If they don't that is your first warning flag, no offense but I take nobody at their word when speaking for the car/truck I am about to tune. ESPECIALLY diesels.
Last edited by army_greywolf; Nov 23, 2010 at 09:57 PM.
Diesels are some of the worst... Reason being is 99% of diesel truck owners tow a **** ton of weight with them. Pyros go up alot while going up a hill with a 10,000 lbs trailer connected to the ass of a truck. Or what are the new ones rated at like close to 20,000 lbs? My ol 6.5 detroit diesel can is only rated to like 10,000 but I have known people to tow much much more than that.
I lived and learned, but thankfully I have a full understanding of forced induction and how it can go from wow to pow in a heartbeat. I DO NOT TUNE FOR OTHER LNF owners. I will tune diesels and LSx engines.
Some factors tuners generally aren't tracking that can be good to look at in the long run. Pyro temps (installing a pyro before turbo is probably the single greatest thing a owner can do for his car in his quest for more power because even if the tune is dead on you can crest 1600 degrees in a hearbeat and destroy a ring land with the full belief it was knock when it wasn't.
Some factors tuners generally aren't tracking that can be good to look at in the long run. Pyro temps (installing a pyro before turbo is probably the single greatest thing a owner can do for his car in his quest for more power because even if the tune is dead on you can crest 1600 degrees in a hearbeat and destroy a ring land with the full belief it was knock when it wasn't.
both if possible. But before turbo is just fine, drilled right into the manifold, either remove turbo during the drilling, drill with grease on the bit to catch shaving or finish the hole (penetrate) while the car is idling to blow the shaving right through. Almost everyone in the diesel community does the last. not much actually ends up on the back side anyways.
let me rephrase that, the only reading that matters in the case of these cars is PRE turbo. As far as I know post turbo would only be a valid thing to do for extended loading to monitor heat soak (as the readings close the gap you can get an idea that it's time to take it a bit easier on the motor). The turbo should reduce the reading pre to post between 50 and 125 degrees depending on design and VE.
let me rephrase that, the only reading that matters in the case of these cars is PRE turbo. As far as I know post turbo would only be a valid thing to do for extended loading to monitor heat soak (as the readings close the gap you can get an idea that it's time to take it a bit easier on the motor). The turbo should reduce the reading pre to post between 50 and 125 degrees depending on design and VE.
Last edited by army_greywolf; Nov 23, 2010 at 10:13 PM.

Quote:When i showed up, although we had emailed a set date, he had no idea i was coming.
Was supposed to get a trifecta/hp tune, vince didnt feel like working that day.
After 3 hours of installing parts, we went data loggin, and my motor blew after like 2 pulls @ 26 psi. This was a byt tune, not saying anythign bad about him, but that was my experience there.
Um... Why the crap were your first 2 pulls at 26 PSI!?!
im going to be tuned by elecblue06 right after black friday dpending if i buy any other parts.
not trying to go off topic but, has anyone been tuned by him?
he seems like a really awesome straight up guy.
not trying to blow my motor up. anyone have any info for me?
not trying to go off topic but, has anyone been tuned by him?
he seems like a really awesome straight up guy.
not trying to blow my motor up. anyone have any info for me?
Tuning should be progressive.
I tune towards the proverbial wall, this wall is permeable and a good tuner gets a feel for when he's pushing against that wall, when you get there it's up to the customer how close he'd like to be to this wall with his tune. Two steps back? Three? 16 degrees 17.5? 20.5 psi? 22.5? more interested in midrange tuning or a drivability tune after you've gone bolt on crazy? lots of factors, so no, a first time out logging pull at 26psi, your motor popped? I'm not surprised.
I tune towards the proverbial wall, this wall is permeable and a good tuner gets a feel for when he's pushing against that wall, when you get there it's up to the customer how close he'd like to be to this wall with his tune. Two steps back? Three? 16 degrees 17.5? 20.5 psi? 22.5? more interested in midrange tuning or a drivability tune after you've gone bolt on crazy? lots of factors, so no, a first time out logging pull at 26psi, your motor popped? I'm not surprised.
Tuning should be progressive.
I tune towards the proverbial wall, this wall is permeable and a good tuner gets a feel for when he's pushing against that wall, when you get there it's up to the customer how close he'd like to be to this wall with his tune. Two steps back? Three? 16 degrees 17.5? 20.5 psi? 22.5? more interested in midrange tuning or a drivability tune after you've gone bolt on crazy? lots of factors, so no, a first time out logging pull at 26psi, your motor popped? I'm not surprised.
I tune towards the proverbial wall, this wall is permeable and a good tuner gets a feel for when he's pushing against that wall, when you get there it's up to the customer how close he'd like to be to this wall with his tune. Two steps back? Three? 16 degrees 17.5? 20.5 psi? 22.5? more interested in midrange tuning or a drivability tune after you've gone bolt on crazy? lots of factors, so no, a first time out logging pull at 26psi, your motor popped? I'm not surprised.
I went to BYT on a scheduled appt.
When i showed up, although we had emailed a set date, he had no idea i was coming.
Was supposed to get a trifecta/hp tune, vince didnt feel like working that day.
After 3 hours of installing parts, we went data loggin, and my motor blew after like 2 pulls @ 26 psi.
This was a byt tune, not saying anythign bad about him, but that was my experience there.
When i showed up, although we had emailed a set date, he had no idea i was coming.
Was supposed to get a trifecta/hp tune, vince didnt feel like working that day.
After 3 hours of installing parts, we went data loggin, and my motor blew after like 2 pulls @ 26 psi.
This was a byt tune, not saying anythign bad about him, but that was my experience there.
Whenever I have an appt that has NOT BEEN VERIFIED BY PHONE at least a couple days beforehand...I always call..ALWAYS. Having said that, that's pretty sloppy **** to happen (including the blown motor)...unless there is a damn good reason. I'll defer from judging here, since I don't know what *really happened*.
Hopefully, BYT will chime in and clear all this up.
Last edited by ronn; Nov 23, 2010 at 11:36 PM.
One thing I have learned over the years...NEVER ASSUME.
Whenever I have an appt that has NOT BEEN VERIFIED BY PHONE at least a couple days beforehand...I always call..ALWAYS. Having said that, that's pretty sloppy **** to happen (including the blown motor)...unless there is a damn good reason. I'll defer from jugding here, since I don't know what *really happened*.
Hopefully, BYT will chime in and clear all this up.
Whenever I have an appt that has NOT BEEN VERIFIED BY PHONE at least a couple days beforehand...I always call..ALWAYS. Having said that, that's pretty sloppy **** to happen (including the blown motor)...unless there is a damn good reason. I'll defer from jugding here, since I don't know what *really happened*.
Hopefully, BYT will chime in and clear all this up.
i heard some good things about tune time in toms river, nj. they have tuned about 20 balts or so> cant think of any other hp dyno tuners in nj.
thats funny what that guy said about vpower and new plugs and a mild tune, def sig material. but yea, def the more mild the tune (a correct tune) the less chance of a blow up! oh, i use v power, it is good gas.....
thats funny what that guy said about vpower and new plugs and a mild tune, def sig material. but yea, def the more mild the tune (a correct tune) the less chance of a blow up! oh, i use v power, it is good gas.....
The reason is almost entirely related to demographics, LNF owners are generally the youngest and most careless of performance oriented car owners so there is really no safe way to tune these cars without posturing blame on a tune as a convenient way to say they weren't flogging the crap out of their car at the time.
.
.
AMEN
also why I'm not really tuning cobalts anymore, just friends cars and that's it.
if you want a real tune, let me know I live in the area
Last edited by 06blackg85ss; Nov 24, 2010 at 01:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost


