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I know there are post about them all over but nothing recent and no one ever talks about how reliable or unreliable they are. I currently have my head taken apart and I'm about to put Stage 2 cams and #82 valve springs in from ZZP. I'm just wondering if I'm going to have to worry about them going out in the next 2k miles. Iv seen things about the valve springs going bad, but nothing since zzp has changed suppliers. Hoping some of you guys can chime in
I've had 2 sets of cams and one set of springs over 40,000 miles ( LDK swap so new cams/swapped springs) . Only issue I ever had was broke rocker once and it scraped the cam. No fault of the cam/springs. I micropolished the lobe to the best of my ability by hand, and that was a year ago, still looks the same.
Finally had the time to get the springs and cams in. Was pain in the ass not having the head pulled. Had to fabricate an overhead spring compressor. None of the auto stores around me had them. Next is to drop the motor down and hopefully have enough room to put the neutral balnace shafts in and the ati damper
I know you probably already purchased the NBS which are pricey but I would recommend balance shaft delete instead. It makes for a more robust setup. It's advantageous because you eliminate chain driven rotating mass, which you have to rely on to stay together, and also needless stress on water pump chain.
To help install the ATI balancer I sourced a M14-1.5 X 130mm bolt through Fastenal. I also used a couple greased up washers to prevent galling the pulley. I know it may be considered taboo by some to use a bolt instead of a stud but this bolt provides sufficient thread engagement IMO. Alternatively you could source some M14-1.5 all thread.
Let me know if you get enough room to get your balance shafts out? To do the ATI you need to undo your passenger side motor mount and the 3 bolts that hold the rear transmission mount to the transmission. That gives you just enough room. Just the side engine mount wont quite do it. Dont forget to put black RTV in your damper keyway and on the back of your NEW bolt washer : ).
Dont forget to put black RTV in your damper keyway and on the back of your NEW bolt washer : ).
Hell I have never done this though it makes sense why you would. I probably have enough red loctite squeeze out from the crank bolt to keep it from seeping. That or the clearance is tight enough it doesn't allow the oil to make it's way through anyway because I've never had any leaks. The stock crank is the same way and without RTV from factory isn't it?
I know you probably already purchased the NBS which are pricey but I would recommend balance shaft delete instead. It makes for a more robust setup. It's advantageous because you eliminate chain driven rotating mass, which you have to rely on to stay together, and also needless stress on water pump chain.
To help install the ATI balancer I sourced a M14-1.5 X 130mm bolt through Fastenal. I also used a couple greased up washers to prevent galling the pulley. I know it may be considered taboo by some to use a bolt instead of a stud but this bolt provides sufficient thread engagement IMO. Alternatively you could source some M14-1.5 all thread.
I was thinking about the delete but iv heard a lot of good and bad about it. I already recieved the ones from zzp so I think I'm going to stick with them and see how they work for me
I was thinking about the delete but iv heard a lot of good and bad about it. I already recieved the ones from zzp so I think I'm going to stick with them and see how they work for me
You've heard bad things about the delete? I don't see the NBS having a single advantage other than it may be easier to install.
