Hey guys Im looking for about 350 to 375 hp and an 8000rpm redline but wanted some opinoins.

1st I know the pistons need to be replaced, but what about the rods?

2nd Springs and retainers need to be replaced, I was thinking Ti.

3rd I would have JBP make the cams but with the 8000 rpm redline do I need the nutral balence shafts.

4th would I have to port the heads

5th Instead of twin charging I think I might go with a small whipple.

ummh thats all I can think of all thoughts apreciated.

 

Has anyone actually blown an engine yet do too to much boost or horsepower, How do we know that new pistons will be needed for 350 hp.

 

I'm assuming you mean wheel hp and not crank hp?

If so, I would go with a g25 turbo. You stand a good chance of over revving the s/c at 8,000 rpm using a small enough pully to produce the boost you'll need for that amount of hp.

IMHO

 

The stock rods are fine to 600 hp. Yes, the valve springs need to be replaced. I'm not sure on the neutral shafts. Yes, you'll need to port the head. The whipple could do it, but you'd get there easier with a single turbo swap, it's just what you want. Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.

 

He's going to have a harder time than you'd think over-reving a whipple.

 

If he's reving to 8000 he'll need the neutral balancer shafts.

 

i'm thinking that you're best off starting with a bare block and build it from the ground up. the cost of tearing apart an exhisting motor is a lotmore than building new

 

The cams from JBP, if done like mine, could get you approx 26hp. Yes the connecting rods will hold but you may consider JBP's (talk to Mev) as they produce less drag at higher hp. The neutral balancing shafts will net you 10hp alone. You definitely want to do the head but whether of not you want to go as radical as the stage 3+1 from JBP depends on you. If you are doing all of those things you definitely want to do the clutch and flywheel, the flywheel being rotational mass. Then I would (and have) put on a complete 3" exhaust. I would also put in head studs and depending on the amount of boost you are aiming for perhaps even do studs for your mains.
Once you have built up your engine, there are options how to add the extra boost you want.
He won't need them, but he will want them

 

I would nix the whipple and go turbo if it was my car. Whipple are unproven so far and the one member that has hinted at using it has not posted anything about sucess so I assumed a terrible failure.

I figure I am around 350 HP with my mods and nitrous. Yes I know the bottle runs out.

 

Heres the supercharger http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

 

Interesting. What kind of #'s are you expecting with that?

 

Hey victory i was hoping you would chime in and yah im going to call MEV.

I was thingking cometic head gaskets and ARP studs and nutral shafts and I was also thinking of the clutchmasters fx400 6 puck and ill get upgraded chromeoly axels.
i still like the idea of using a whipple thoe.
i should have the money by summer

 

For 350~375whp and an 8k redline, you covered alot of what you'll have to do. Go with a bare block as joe suggest, but use a bare racing block from GMPP. The varies build books that GM has put out (both the Ecotec and the LSJ ones) will also list a ton of parts you can use.

So starting with the racing block, you'll want high quality forged pistons (like the Diamonds, though suggest sticking with 9 or 9.5 compression instead of 10 for high boost) and though you don't have to, might as well put in some higher strength rods while you got the thing apart. The JBP ones are stupid expensive, so look for other brands from the build books

Moving from there, get ether the GMPP racing head (it's head, not heads by the way) or have JBP work up one for you. Their stage 3, though costly, will add alot of other stuff that you'll want for less than buying it all in singles. You'll want a full Ti valve train, not just the springs and retainers. Make sure it supports 0.50" of lift.

Get some good cams (JBP will do), with the neutral balance shafts.

Twin charging is not nearly your best bet since it involves a whole lot of effort unless your going with a kit. Hahn I believe is the only people with one out now. Also a Whipple swap is something alot of people want to do, but the fabb work would cost you a ton and you would be the first to pull it off. So no help while your doing it. A turbo swap might be your best bet.

If you have to, stay with the stock supercharger but get it reworked by a SC specialty shop and have them do a full rebuild/rework job on it. Porting, polishing, honing, higher grade bearings and seals, full resurfacing. And a 3" pulley will take you to the SCs redline of 16k rpms, but you should be safe with anything larger than a 2.8".

Needless to say, you'll need the full range of supporting mods. A straight pipe 3" exhaust would be a good idea. 60# injecters are a must, but might not end up being enough depending on how much air your flowing (and yes I mean air flowing, not boost). I would strongly suggest you rip out your stock heat exchanger and go with a 3 pass from LFT mounted in the bottom. Then a go BeCool radiator and maybe a pair of electric fans where the stock heat exchanger was. Also consider upgrading your oil cooler.

You'll also have to replace your axels and do massive suspension work to try to hook all that power to the ground.

Basicly your looking for something close to what VictoryRed is doing, though not quiet as extreme.

 

I assume you mean next summer which means you can see how my engine does with all the improvements. Because the boost will be turned up incrementally as the engine is broken in and data logged, we will have a good idea of the results of the engine build itself.
It sounds like you are going about this build the right way and starting from the bottom up. As for getting a bare block and starting on that, that commits you to getting every piece a piece at a time even those parts you would not change. If you plan on running your engine really hard a spare block makes sense but if the plan is to make a strong reliable and fast car then the expense isn't likely warranted for you. For myself, I will be looking for a used lsj, for me, out here for a spare only if it comes complete at a good price.
Keep doing your reasearch Gory, and let us know as you progress along the way.

 

well if i did my research the eaton m62 is rated at 400cfm and this one is rated at 1250 cfm and 30psi of boost so hopefully in the range of 350 400hp.
The neat thing is the whipple uses a boost bypass system that is almost identical to stock.

 

That would be some great improvement over stock.
Sadly, it looks like you need to buy that S\C now as it sounds like this is a one off deal at that price.

 

That's a Kenne Bell.

 

If your going to replace all these parts on the motor why stop for 350 how about just go for 500-600 HP?

All these upgades are in line with much more power than 400 HP.

 

400 CFM is good for about 300 bhp and 1250 is like 1000 bhp d00d. Have you see those performance shows with the 454 big block thats like 750 HP and they put on the 1000 CFM carb.

Your going to been some kick ass injectors and a new fuel system with that stupid huge blower.

 

I blew mine at 18k miles. Im running stage 2 with a 2.8 inch pulley. Computer registered 7200 rpm but that didnt seem right. When they opened her up I saw that the tip of the valve broke and was folded like a taco. Also I chopped the head off the spark plug and pretty much ruined that chamber. Got it repaired under warrantee though.

 

When you took it in, did you take all aftermarket parts off?

 

Hey Zinner, sorta reminds me of my D's car with his Ford 429 Super Cobra Jet and huge ass Whipple supercharger.

 

First off I want to say you have many good points. My comments are directed at areas that are in need of correction.
GMPP Block? totally unnecessary for this under 400HP build.
10:1 is the best thing to do for this build. 400HP can be obtained with stock SC with the pistons.
Nuetral balance shafts have to be thought about. you get 10HP but engine vibration and 8000 RPM? you need to take care of the blocks edges to de-burr so no pieces of metal shake off the block and foul your motor (dont believe this..... read GMP article on 300++Hp Ecotec LSJ build article on their website).
Sodium filled valves are available as far as I know but Ti valves? not that I know of. that would be great though.

Victory Red is not getting a GMP Block I dont think..... Chime in here Victory to shed light on the need for a block.

 

Have you guys seen the inside of the block? The sleeves are pretty decent and sturdy. The rods and crank are some stout pieces too. The pistons looked like they are decent pieces as well.

Here is a pic from replacing my headgasket when it blew with just GM Stage 2, Intake, exhaust:


Sorry for the quality of the pics.