574's engine & turbo build all in one
Yeah i still havent been able to get mine running correctly yet and its been in the works about 6 months now. its torture. September would be ridiculous. i would look around too. kind of annoying the shop didn't tell you itd be that long from the beginning. that's annoying for sure. should be a fun car when you get it back together.
Lol i hear that..thats y i would rather have 400 hp below the curve through out the entire rpm range. Turbo might make more peak power but they r murder on the drive train cuz they hit hard. Sc r smother and can carrie the the power further through the rpm range.
Sorry, I just saw this. Great thread, take lots of pics and ask lots of questions, and most of all take your time. Use red loctite on everything upgrade your timing bolts with 10.9 or better yet arp and most of all have fun. There aren't enough build threads imho. We can help you catch mistakes during the build process so you don't have to do it twice. I had a ton of help on here in my turbo duck build threads.
The first shop my block was at, the guy said he would replace all the ARP rod bolts.
Second shop I just took the block and rods to said the same thing! What gives? I thought ARP bolts were good for life??
Second shop I just took the block and rods to said the same thing! What gives? I thought ARP bolts were good for life??
Now if they were stock TTY bolts of course.
I wouldnt.
And actualy arp 2000 is way over a 12.9
If u call arp they will fill u in as to y.
Ill tell u this that it requires a before use measurement as a base line. They can stretch. I just bought new bolts for my eagle rods.
And actualy arp 2000 is way over a 12.9
If u call arp they will fill u in as to y.
Ill tell u this that it requires a before use measurement as a base line. They can stretch. I just bought new bolts for my eagle rods.
I guess you cant argue with that then, if the mfg is telling you to then so be it. This is just me but if I can verify that they are all the same length and have no visual signs of fatigue I would still run them.
Ur crazy man u would risk ur entire engine on 8 bolts u didnt want to replace.
Call ARP is wat im sayin. U dont want to risk this.
It will require a micrometer to measure the length. This is somethin eles i alway measure and document along with exact torque of each bolt.
Call ARP is wat im sayin. U dont want to risk this.
It will require a micrometer to measure the length. This is somethin eles i alway measure and document along with exact torque of each bolt.
I cant comment on having experience with a blown motor and reusing arp bolts. My current block I bought all new stuff. But if I were in his shoes, knew that i was the only one on the motor and after breaking something in the motor. If I pulled it apart and the head, gasket, all things being otherwise intact. I would make a judgement call. I know not everyone agrees with that but that is why its an opinion. He has got to know the risks being this deep into the balt. I just dont agree with the replace it all; all the time or your engine is going to go like Chernobyl, when none of us know or have seen his bolts to make a fair judgement on their condition.
no you cant argue with that but even if they are all the same length dose not mean that they are good to use you need to know what the length before use is to determine if they are reusable
These bolts came with the used zzp rods I bought, one rod definitely got real hot due to a spun bearing and a few others may have seen some heat. They are not out of my engine
Intercooler looks awesome. Too bad its going to be hidden halfway by the bumper.
My hahn intercooler just looks like the front of the radiator, no way to tell it apart from any other cobalt unless you are a cobalt guy. Wish there was someway I could make my intercooler "pop" more.
My hahn intercooler just looks like the front of the radiator, no way to tell it apart from any other cobalt unless you are a cobalt guy. Wish there was someway I could make my intercooler "pop" more.
Intercooler looks awesome. Too bad its going to be hidden halfway by the bumper.
My hahn intercooler just looks like the front of the radiator, no way to tell it apart from any other cobalt unless you are a cobalt guy. Wish there was someway I could make my intercooler "pop" more.
My hahn intercooler just looks like the front of the radiator, no way to tell it apart from any other cobalt unless you are a cobalt guy. Wish there was someway I could make my intercooler "pop" more.
I need help deciding what A/R housing
.50
.60
.70
I know the smaller the housing the faster the spool but I need help deciding. Someone else already told me to get .60 but I need more input
.50
.60
.70
I know the smaller the housing the faster the spool but I need help deciding. Someone else already told me to get .60 but I need more input
I need help deciding what A/R housing
.50 500 rpm faster spool than .60 street power, flatter torque quicker spool
.60 500 rpm faster spool than .70 street/strip. gonna sacrifice spool for top end power (peaky power)
.70 slow spool, need more than 4 cylinders big top end power. Track queeny? big fun on the highway when the power comes in hard
I know the smaller the housing the faster the spool but I need help deciding. Someone else already told me to get .60 but I need more input
.50 500 rpm faster spool than .60 street power, flatter torque quicker spool
.60 500 rpm faster spool than .70 street/strip. gonna sacrifice spool for top end power (peaky power)
.70 slow spool, need more than 4 cylinders big top end power. Track queeny? big fun on the highway when the power comes in hard
I know the smaller the housing the faster the spool but I need help deciding. Someone else already told me to get .60 but I need more input


