Beating the heat with TVS?
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From: Harrisburg, PA
Beating the heat with TVS?
I'm curious how some of you are doing this. The one time I went to the track this year was back in June for the GM tuner bash and the dyno the day before was also bad. It was near 100 both days with heat indexs near 110.
Sitting in the staging lanes I was seeing 140ish and ending runs in the 170s. Dyno the day before track day only made 291/240ish wayyyyy down on power. I'm losing massive amounts of timing because of IAT.
I have the following
AEM Meth Injection
Option B
CX Racing Heat Exchanger
Switched to distilled water and redline water wetter
These things have made little difference in keeping the IAT down, short of nitrous or Co2 i dont know what more I can do
Sitting in the staging lanes I was seeing 140ish and ending runs in the 170s. Dyno the day before track day only made 291/240ish wayyyyy down on power. I'm losing massive amounts of timing because of IAT.
I have the following
AEM Meth Injection
Option B
CX Racing Heat Exchanger
Switched to distilled water and redline water wetter
These things have made little difference in keeping the IAT down, short of nitrous or Co2 i dont know what more I can do
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From: West Carrollton (Dayton), OH
With my 2.6, second h/e, and intercooler reservoir my temps are never above 135 (ambient 88) after a few pulls...w/o dual/single pass or "option b"...
So, air in the system? bad IC pump? My 2.6 on m62 should be making more heat than an 80mm TVS. If you have a 75mm then maybe it'd be the same as my 2.6/m62. But I guess I'm no help. Check the system for air. I know, I know, you have option b... but something is up.
Unless it's just because of the 100* ambient temp
So, air in the system? bad IC pump? My 2.6 on m62 should be making more heat than an 80mm TVS. If you have a 75mm then maybe it'd be the same as my 2.6/m62. But I guess I'm no help. Check the system for air. I know, I know, you have option b... but something is up.
Unless it's just because of the 100* ambient temp
Here are a few things people forget when there on the dyno. They aren't leaving the car sit and idle and or run for extended periods of time heat soaking. Double check to make sure your I/C pump is working, I am sure it is but it doesn't hurt to check. Also, if your serious about keeping your iat and iat2's down simply get the killer chiller. You will be amazed at how much it will lower your temps. You won't be pulling any timing and you won't need to switch to a turbo setup.
If you havn't already
Purchase 2 1/8" bungs (two 3gph should be good, or whatever size nozzle you need to use) from JEGS and weld them into the front side of your intake manifold. Should keep down your IAT2 in 3rd gear
Purchase 2 1/8" bungs (two 3gph should be good, or whatever size nozzle you need to use) from JEGS and weld them into the front side of your intake manifold. Should keep down your IAT2 in 3rd gear
being up in pa, it's probably not heat but humidity that's raping your motor. Your meth mix and position of injection of the meth will have a lot to do with how much it will help. But even with humidity, meth won't help but so much. I deal with humidity bigtime down here in va beach, but it gets worse as you go further up the eastern seaboard. Steven Flit's idea is more accurate. Explore using two jets located on the intake manifold, instead of the intake itself. Or one in the intake, and one further down in the manifold. That way you're not expecting the meth to just soak it up all in one shot.
Option b is nice, but the stock setup isn't really working at it's best to extract heat that the tvs will provide. I wasn't taking a personal shot at you yesterday, just don't be afraid to ask questions when you hit a wall.
Option b is nice, but the stock setup isn't really working at it's best to extract heat that the tvs will provide. I wasn't taking a personal shot at you yesterday, just don't be afraid to ask questions when you hit a wall.
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From: West Carrollton (Dayton), OH
Here are a few things people forget when there on the dyno. They aren't leaving the car sit and idle and or run for extended periods of time heat soaking. Double check to make sure your I/C pump is working, I am sure it is but it doesn't hurt to check. Also, if your serious about keeping your iat and iat2's down simply get the killer chiller. You will be amazed at how much it will lower your temps. You won't be pulling any timing and you won't need to switch to a turbo setup.
wouldnt it be more bennifical(sp?) to weld the nozzles on the back of the manifold so it sprays after the laminovas?
not necessarily. The laminovas are going to draw a certain amount of heat out of the air regardless of the temp, as long as it's cooler than the air. It's the total effect. Now if he sprayed both before and after, that would be a different story.
i went to school to pick up my little girls and it was hot outside so i left the car running with the ac on for about 45 minutes and my iat2 s got to 140 s never got higher than 140 s. is that normal? and that is with the 2.9 pulley and cxracing heatexchanger and no other cooling mods.


