Blue pulley bolts loctited update...the bit finally broke
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Blue pulley bolts loctited update...the bit finally broke
Well, got a torch on the bolts to where it had 2000 degree heat on the bolt to melt the red loctite dealer put on the bolts and still no go with breaker bar or impact gun I was able to get in there to hammer on it also. The security bit finally broke. The tech made damn sure the bolts werent coming off the easy way.
So it looks like the s/c has to come off and they have to be drilled out now. Unbelievable the tech used red loctite so the bolts will have to be drilled to take them out (heard that through the dealers grapevine they will do it to anyone getting a S2 upgrade through GM at this dealer anyway)
You guys that drill the bolts out, you do it just enough to get the heads off and then worry about getting the threaded portion out once pulley is off or you drill em all the way though and get a new hub? I could just see drilling the heads off bolts taking pulley off and still not being able to get the threaded piece out of hub withour ruining the hubs threaded holes.
So it looks like the s/c has to come off and they have to be drilled out now. Unbelievable the tech used red loctite so the bolts will have to be drilled to take them out (heard that through the dealers grapevine they will do it to anyone getting a S2 upgrade through GM at this dealer anyway)
You guys that drill the bolts out, you do it just enough to get the heads off and then worry about getting the threaded portion out once pulley is off or you drill em all the way though and get a new hub? I could just see drilling the heads off bolts taking pulley off and still not being able to get the threaded piece out of hub withour ruining the hubs threaded holes.
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i cut one of my bolts off that were stuck in there cause of loctite. after i cut the head off of it, i took the rest of the bolts out then sled the stage 2 pulley off, then took a pair of vice scripts and clamped them onto the rest of the bolt that was left and turned it ,came right off. because of the stage 2 pulley being off, the bolt isnt as tight.
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I really dont wanna ruin the blue bolts so I can reuse them if the car has to go in for engine warranty work down the road. I wonder if you can buy the blue bolts seperatly from GM?
#7
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Mods can we sticky a post to new stage 2 owners, maybe in the 2.0 section or something
to tell them that as SOON as they get home from the install, get in there and loosen those bolts, clean the threads, and then reinstall them.
Hopefully it will stop that loctite from siezing them, as it seems a good many people have had this issue in the past, and will likely have them in the future.
to tell them that as SOON as they get home from the install, get in there and loosen those bolts, clean the threads, and then reinstall them.
Hopefully it will stop that loctite from siezing them, as it seems a good many people have had this issue in the past, and will likely have them in the future.
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the blue bolts... eh... **** the blue bolts... lol...
i'd take them off then if the GM guys give you any greif about the origional blue bolts not being on there, tell them they started to come loose so you replaced them just for safety
i'd take them off then if the GM guys give you any greif about the origional blue bolts not being on there, tell them they started to come loose so you replaced them just for safety
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Ive gotten red loctite to bust loose also, the problem with it on the pulley its hard as hell to get the pulley to hold absolutley still while it breaks loose. Any movement at all and you loose the torque trying to break it loose.
I have never in my 35+ years of wrenching on race cars seen bolts like this refusing to break loose even after applying more than enough heat to melt the red loctite. I heard rumor a tech somewhere actually put jb weld on the threads of the blue bolts.
Anyway, we will pull the s/c this week and do it the ol fashion way and cut em out.
I have never in my 35+ years of wrenching on race cars seen bolts like this refusing to break loose even after applying more than enough heat to melt the red loctite. I heard rumor a tech somewhere actually put jb weld on the threads of the blue bolts.
Anyway, we will pull the s/c this week and do it the ol fashion way and cut em out.
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I had to use a pipe wrench to hold the stage 2 pulley and they were tight enough that one of the bits broke. Using the pipe wrench was the only way to get my pulley off.
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2 bits come in the S2 kit. I got 1 bit with the 3/8 end on it back. Whats the 2nd bit for or is it also a security bit with just a different sized end on it?
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Ive already spoken my dissapointment with the tech that applied the loctite pointing out to the service manager no where does it say in instructions to even use loctite and ESPECIALLY not red loctite which is abosultely ridiculous to use on bolts this small. If any was to be used it should have been blue.
I was also told the tech used an impact gun to tighten the blue bolts also and they DID NOT get torques to 15 ft/lbs per instructions, so I figure they got torqued to at least 95 ft/lbs with the loctite as well.
I am filing a complaint with the dealership Monday morning about the tech not following written instructions how to put parts on engine.
This applying of red was done with full intention of owner not being able to remove the bolts period UNLESS they were drilled out as applying needed heat to melt the red loctite will ruin the snout seal behind the pulley.
Oh well. lesson learned...if you cant or wont do the job yourself stand over the tech every step of the way and watch him.
I was also told the tech used an impact gun to tighten the blue bolts also and they DID NOT get torques to 15 ft/lbs per instructions, so I figure they got torqued to at least 95 ft/lbs with the loctite as well.
I am filing a complaint with the dealership Monday morning about the tech not following written instructions how to put parts on engine.
This applying of red was done with full intention of owner not being able to remove the bolts period UNLESS they were drilled out as applying needed heat to melt the red loctite will ruin the snout seal behind the pulley.
Oh well. lesson learned...if you cant or wont do the job yourself stand over the tech every step of the way and watch him.
Last edited by sscobaltscZ06; 07-21-2007 at 02:27 PM.
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Update:
I was told we can bring the car back in to service and they will remove the blue bolts for us and re-install my supplied allen bolts with the S2 pulley with NO loctite on them no charge. I didnt ask them to put my 2.85 pulley on as Ill do that at home to protect my warranty.
They felt since it is not in instructions to use loctite they are at fault and will remove s/c and will remove them by drilling or using their bit and impact off the car.
I havnt decided if ill just let them do it or ill remove the s/c and do it myself if I dont trust them again.
I was told we can bring the car back in to service and they will remove the blue bolts for us and re-install my supplied allen bolts with the S2 pulley with NO loctite on them no charge. I didnt ask them to put my 2.85 pulley on as Ill do that at home to protect my warranty.
They felt since it is not in instructions to use loctite they are at fault and will remove s/c and will remove them by drilling or using their bit and impact off the car.
I havnt decided if ill just let them do it or ill remove the s/c and do it myself if I dont trust them again.
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There are 5 different numbered red loctites on the market. I have use one with racing applications that requires over 500 ft/lbs to break it free without heating the bolt to over 500 degrees. This is what the tech used on our bolts and it is basically permanent and cannot be removed without alot of heat and being able to hold the pulley perfectly still while removing to break the bond.
I had some on a 27mm bolt that required me standing on a 5 foot long breaker pipe (3/4 800 ft /b impact gun wouldnt fit in the limited space) to break it free dry with no heat applied because it would damage the seals.
Most people use one of the lower red loctites that can break loose easier.
I had some on a 27mm bolt that required me standing on a 5 foot long breaker pipe (3/4 800 ft /b impact gun wouldnt fit in the limited space) to break it free dry with no heat applied because it would damage the seals.
Most people use one of the lower red loctites that can break loose easier.
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I used a monkey wrench to hold the pulley and then drilled alittle and used a good old bolt extractor with a corded drill. I am not sure what locktite was on the bolts but it was a cloudy clear color. Needless to say it was a bitch to get off. When I put the new pulley and bolts on I didn't put locktite on them and then they made the most god awful sound after a couple days. So I tried it again with locktite and havn't had a problem since. (I used Blue LT)
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