has any1 figured out how to eliminate the bbv

 

I know what hose to clamp. But I wouldnt reccomend it.

 

http://www.saturnionredline.com/boostmod.htm

Try it at your own risk ;p

 

IF your going to attempt to modify this system or its operation YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK, AND RISK POSSIBLE UNWARRANTIED ENGINE DAMAGE

With that said here is what you should do to modify this system.

Splice into circuit 1724(grey) from Supercharger Bypass Solenoid. Run the spliced in wire to a normally open single pole single throw micro-switch mounted on a bracket under your instrument panel and mounted in such a manner that the switch is closed with by the throttle pedal somewhere in the 80-100% range(based on your prefernce). Attach a wire to a verified good ground and then to the open terminal on the microswitch.

This modification will force full boost under all conditions when the switch is depressed and still allow full PCM control of boost under all other operating conditions.

 

*excellent*

 

its not really required to eliminate it for anything so why do it?

 

sry guess i worded wrong i ment to bypass the bpv

 

What possible engine damage could this cause?

 

This is bypassing a factory engine control, even though it is extremely unlikely it would cause any issues if it does it comes out of your pocket if the dealer can prove the mod caused the problem..the same as with any other mod you would make to your car.

 

the dangerous part of this is that you are going to probbably hit full boost at all rpm and tps levels. your car may not have adequate fuel for this and kaboom. when set up right it will eliminate the boost bypass only at wide open throttle. if that button breaks, gets stuck. conditions could get really ugly at partial throttles.

 

why do you need to bypass it though? I am curious.

 

i dont see the point either

 

Namely because if you use a smaller pulley or are really aggresive(such as large amounts of wheelspin) with the car the PCM will start to bleed off boost well before redline.

 

I do have a smalle rpulley, the bleed starts at about the last 3-400 rpms for me, its not very significant.

 

I am going to go try it out on my car right now. I will let you know how I make out.

 

Cool Zinner let us know the outcome

 

Got the switch wired up and it's closing the circuit when the gas pedal is depressed pretty much the whole way (90% maybe).

Just need to find a good ground. Anyone know a close ground wire (cough maven). I found the grey wire for the solenoid.

 

Damn, I saw your name on the post and thought you were finished and had some results

Any exposed metal should work, you should probably consult Maven though to be safe.

 

I will test it out tonight, cause to much traffic right now since it's rush hour gridlock out there

I love DC traffic.

I am all done by the way. Just got a ground of a piece of metal under the pedals, not pretty but it's forms the circuit nicely.

You definetly need a little multimeter to make sure it's grounded properly.

I am going to order a 3.25 pulley in the near future, as soon as some of my ebay auctions finish up so I can raise some extra dough.

I used a STDT roller level switch. It's not a STST but it does the same job. I put it under the pedal with a crude little bracket I made up and bolted it to the liner. It's not going to last forever, but I have a better switch and system in the works if I decide to keep it.

When I put the pedal down it closes a circuit that grounds the grey wire on the boost solenoid.

Switch I used.
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=275%2D017

 

please tell me how it works for ya, good luck with it.

 

I got it all hooked up today and I can't tell any difference. I still don't get to above 11 PSI on the boost guage. I am 99% sure it's grounding properly at WOT. Must be no more boost to give

I will see how it works with a 3.25 pulley once mine arrives.

 

Bummer man I would rig something just a temp back to the battery ground and give it a shot ? Sucks if that doesnt work.

 

Are you suggesting maybe my ground isn't working well ? I could try to find a better ground, but my multimeter was giving me the thumbs up that I was connected into the common ground when I did a continuity test.

 

Do you think the switch isnt being pushed down all the way

 

Nope I don't think thats the problem. I am going to check my ground wire once more and if thats ok I am going to say that maybe there just isn't enough boost for the bypass to even kick in yet