boost problems with a 2.8, need help.
K so, got, my car dyno, and tuned, 4th gear pull I did 266 whp, 241 ft lbs tq, @ 17.01 psi... That's on a 2.8" pulley... So the guy who said 15 psi on a 2.8, no more can suck it, and I have mid length headers with 3" cat back, and the zzp true 3" intake... Plus some other stuff. 
I have a 2.85" with 42s ( at the time) and the ZZP Long tube with 3" Catted DP to stock, and I dynoed at 16 psi.
Went to the race track and peaked at 18 psi in the 1/4 mile. With the same set up.
Now I have 60# Injectors. Dyno date is saturday.
i re-did the intercooler to super gasket with silicone, and got new injector spacers, helped a little bit up one psi, so going to re-do the the end plate with silicone to see if that helps...
ok im back up to ~17 psi, I made a boost leak tester and block offs for the supercharger lines, I re-did the endplate (gasket plus silicone), boost/air temp sensor (o-ring was shot so found new new and added silicone), supercharger to intercooler(gasket and silicone on both sides of gasket), added clamps to all boost feed lines, new intercooler to block gasket, tightened both intercooler to block and supercharger to intercooler to 18lb-ft with locktight, new injector spacers and new w/o-rings, and removed K&N rain guard and cleaned the K&N. If anyone needs pic of the tester and line block off's let me know, and i can tell you what you need to know/do.
car runs good but the afr's from the box tune are still really rich but w/e finally back to about the right boost!!
car runs good but the afr's from the box tune are still really rich but w/e finally back to about the right boost!!
Last edited by jamies06ss/sc; Apr 9, 2012 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
The boost tester is a rubber pipe reducer fitting 3'' to 2.25'' i'm pretty sure measure end to make sure, with a plug on the 2.25'' end with a valve stem in the plug, i glued the plug into the fitting as well as clamped it. this will not fit very well on the supercharger so you will need to make a custom gasket on the end of the blower, I used layers of duct tape, unless you can find the right size fitting, I could not.




Then i disconnected the two intake line by the throttle body, and plugged them with rubber hose and bolts w/clamps on both ends of the hose, don't need those blowing off. The large black hose is 1/2'' I'm pretty sure and the bolt is 15/16 grade 8, it was unnecessary i know but still lol. And the clear hose I'm not sure the size but a 5/8'' fits snug in it.




I did not disconnect that hard plastic hose, but that what it plugs.
Then you will need an air compressor, you only need to put 20psi into the blower/intake to test it correctly, then last thing you need is a spray bottle w/soapy water in it, spray every place air could leak on the intake then pressurize it continue to spray and look for bubbles, if there are bubbles you have a leak from that spot.
Odds are good if you have a leak it is your Bosch air pressure/intake temp sensor, it has a o-ring on the end, and it goes flat and gets hard. The problem is it is a weird size, so what i did was get two smaller o-rings that fit in the space and then siliconed the sensor to the block, and it worked well no leaks.




Then i disconnected the two intake line by the throttle body, and plugged them with rubber hose and bolts w/clamps on both ends of the hose, don't need those blowing off. The large black hose is 1/2'' I'm pretty sure and the bolt is 15/16 grade 8, it was unnecessary i know but still lol. And the clear hose I'm not sure the size but a 5/8'' fits snug in it.




I did not disconnect that hard plastic hose, but that what it plugs.
Then you will need an air compressor, you only need to put 20psi into the blower/intake to test it correctly, then last thing you need is a spray bottle w/soapy water in it, spray every place air could leak on the intake then pressurize it continue to spray and look for bubbles, if there are bubbles you have a leak from that spot.
Odds are good if you have a leak it is your Bosch air pressure/intake temp sensor, it has a o-ring on the end, and it goes flat and gets hard. The problem is it is a weird size, so what i did was get two smaller o-rings that fit in the space and then siliconed the sensor to the block, and it worked well no leaks.
At least this post went in the right direction. I've never done a boost leak test, but i might try one, i've always had low boost levels with a 2.8" pulley, but i also have a 3" exhaust and long tube headers so i thought nothing of it. Right now i'm just over 16psi at 6800rpm-7200rpm.
One thing that happened to me though, was having a high octane and low octane timing MAP. I do self tuning with HPTuners, and i would run my car to the limits on the High Octane table getting tad bit of knock here and there (especially in hot weather).
Anyways, i thought my car was running like it did on GMS2 and i checked my logs last year and it kept dropping down to the Low Octane table with almost no timing advance. So, now my car is High octane only, it had pulled almost 10 degrees of timing when it dropped to low octane, its one of those things where you can feel it and you know something isn't quite right.
Oh yeah, and i also run E85, manifold phenolic spacer, gm dual pass, jabsco intercooler pump, and a secondary H/E which makes it much easier to run with higher timing and manage intercooler temps.
One thing that happened to me though, was having a high octane and low octane timing MAP. I do self tuning with HPTuners, and i would run my car to the limits on the High Octane table getting tad bit of knock here and there (especially in hot weather).
Anyways, i thought my car was running like it did on GMS2 and i checked my logs last year and it kept dropping down to the Low Octane table with almost no timing advance. So, now my car is High octane only, it had pulled almost 10 degrees of timing when it dropped to low octane, its one of those things where you can feel it and you know something isn't quite right.
Oh yeah, and i also run E85, manifold phenolic spacer, gm dual pass, jabsco intercooler pump, and a secondary H/E which makes it much easier to run with higher timing and manage intercooler temps.
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