Cam regrind on F/I
11-10-2004, 08:56 PM
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Cam regrind on F/I
So I've looked for perf. parts all over the net and came to gmgoodwrench's site and saw you can get intake and exhaust camshaft "blanks" for $75 a piece. Now, in my mx6 V6 the cam can add quite a bit of power, and from what I've come to understand is that on an F/I motor it can really make some power.
Are the specs out for these cams? Anyone in the cavy world have experience with reground cams, and who ground them...what kind of power did you get? I'll be new to F/I, so I just wanna learn everything there is to know. Plus, I think we need to get some more performance threads goin, hehe.
-Adam-
Are the specs out for these cams? Anyone in the cavy world have experience with reground cams, and who ground them...what kind of power did you get? I'll be new to F/I, so I just wanna learn everything there is to know. Plus, I think we need to get some more performance threads goin, hehe.
-Adam-
11-15-2004, 09:25 PM
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I can't help you with any cam specs, and I'll be new to F/I as well, but I agree it's a good idea to get some more performance threads going. I wanna learn from everyone else as much as possible so that I'll be ready to do the right tuning when I get a new car!
11-16-2004, 05:00 PM
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well i contacted crower cams and they said they will if there is demand. so seeing as in how gm is fully supporting the engine i dont see why there wont be demand for cams. hopefully next year crower will develop some. or gm offers some one or the other. some mild cam's for us cali folks that still need to pass smog.
11-19-2004, 07:37 PM
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don't be surprised if JBP (Jbody performance - www.jbodyperformance.com) makes some cams for the LSJ; they have regrinds out now for the LD9(2.4 twin cam) and eco, apparently they're excellent - 22Whp gain on the 2.4, and a gain of at least 3 at every single rpm, not a specific range.
11-20-2004, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by adjat84th
So I've looked for perf. parts all over the net and came to gmgoodwrench's site and saw you can get intake and exhaust camshaft "blanks" for $75 a piece. Now, in my mx6 V6 the cam can add quite a bit of power, and from what I've come to understand is that on an F/I motor it can really make some power.
Are the specs out for these cams? Anyone in the cavy world have experience with reground cams, and who ground them...what kind of power did you get? I'll be new to F/I, so I just wanna learn everything there is to know. Plus, I think we need to get some more performance threads goin, hehe.
-Adam-
Are the specs out for these cams? Anyone in the cavy world have experience with reground cams, and who ground them...what kind of power did you get? I'll be new to F/I, so I just wanna learn everything there is to know. Plus, I think we need to get some more performance threads goin, hehe.
-Adam-
The only time you want a tight LSA is when your drag racing and want all top end. As the LSA gets closer its narrows the power band;however, in the smaller band more power is made. Rough idle, power surge, more emissions, rumble like sound (thats why certain V8's sound like they are hardly running), etc are common factors when dealing with a tight LSA.
On the LS1 motor (the motor i know the most about in my moderate knowledge) the stock cam specs are 119 degree LSA. FI guys, depending on application, go anywhere from 116-113. 113 causes some overlap but in drag racing a little boost bleed off is exceptable. Especially if you are running above 3-4K after launch;moreover, meaning low end grunt isn't needed. All motor guys run anywhere from 114 (for street use and emission passing purposes) to 108 (for the extream racer). I am sure something beyond that has happened for high reving all race motors but I don't have a huge knowledge on LS1 race cars.
Some people get reverse split cams which means that instead of the exhaust lobe having a longer duration (time the lobe is open to close) the intake will have a longer duration. Good for FI since more air is coming but with nitrous the exhaust should typically be a few degrees more then the intake to allow all the gases to escape.
When looking at cam specs look at LSA,duration, and lift. Don't go by name and don't go by what someone else says because what is streetable to one person is not acceptable to another. Most people get custom grinds for their special needs and possibly should be looked into. All in all, cam shafts shouldn't be added right away.
Cams will alter the way the car drives so just don't jump into right away. While doing Cams I say get the head,intake, blower, and possibly TB ported. This would cost money of course but if you want to do it all at once just save and then splurg.
12-28-2004, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by buymeac5vette
Typically in a F/I cam you want a LSA (Lobe Seperatin Angle) to be somewhat far apart. I Don't know what the specs are on the 2.2 Supercharge cam but it has a very wide LSA. If you wanted more power you would have to close the LSA gap but if you did it to much you would have overlap and it would bleed of the boost made by the FI unit.
The only time you want a tight LSA is when your drag racing and want all top end. As the LSA gets closer its narrows the power band;however, in the smaller band more power is made. Rough idle, power surge, more emissions, rumble like sound (thats why certain V8's sound like they are hardly running), etc are common factors when dealing with a tight LSA.
On the LS1 motor (the motor i know the most about in my moderate knowledge) the stock cam specs are 119 degree LSA. FI guys, depending on application, go anywhere from 116-113. 113 causes some overlap but in drag racing a little boost bleed off is exceptable. Especially if you are running above 3-4K after launch;moreover, meaning low end grunt isn't needed. All motor guys run anywhere from 114 (for street use and emission passing purposes) to 108 (for the extream racer). I am sure something beyond that has happened for high reving all race motors but I don't have a huge knowledge on LS1 race cars.
Some people get reverse split cams which means that instead of the exhaust lobe having a longer duration (time the lobe is open to close) the intake will have a longer duration. Good for FI since more air is coming but with nitrous the exhaust should typically be a few degrees more then the intake to allow all the gases to escape.
When looking at cam specs look at LSA,duration, and lift. Don't go by name and don't go by what someone else says because what is streetable to one person is not acceptable to another. Most people get custom grinds for their special needs and possibly should be looked into. All in all, cam shafts shouldn't be added right away.
Cams will alter the way the car drives so just don't jump into right away. While doing Cams I say get the head,intake, blower, and possibly TB ported. This would cost money of course but if you want to do it all at once just save and then splurg.
The only time you want a tight LSA is when your drag racing and want all top end. As the LSA gets closer its narrows the power band;however, in the smaller band more power is made. Rough idle, power surge, more emissions, rumble like sound (thats why certain V8's sound like they are hardly running), etc are common factors when dealing with a tight LSA.
On the LS1 motor (the motor i know the most about in my moderate knowledge) the stock cam specs are 119 degree LSA. FI guys, depending on application, go anywhere from 116-113. 113 causes some overlap but in drag racing a little boost bleed off is exceptable. Especially if you are running above 3-4K after launch;moreover, meaning low end grunt isn't needed. All motor guys run anywhere from 114 (for street use and emission passing purposes) to 108 (for the extream racer). I am sure something beyond that has happened for high reving all race motors but I don't have a huge knowledge on LS1 race cars.
Some people get reverse split cams which means that instead of the exhaust lobe having a longer duration (time the lobe is open to close) the intake will have a longer duration. Good for FI since more air is coming but with nitrous the exhaust should typically be a few degrees more then the intake to allow all the gases to escape.
When looking at cam specs look at LSA,duration, and lift. Don't go by name and don't go by what someone else says because what is streetable to one person is not acceptable to another. Most people get custom grinds for their special needs and possibly should be looked into. All in all, cam shafts shouldn't be added right away.
Cams will alter the way the car drives so just don't jump into right away. While doing Cams I say get the head,intake, blower, and possibly TB ported. This would cost money of course but if you want to do it all at once just save and then splurg.
12-28-2004, 02:21 PM
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Cams
As many years as I have been building engines from 600cc bikes to 500ci blown BB Chevys on nitro one thing has stayed the same..... I leave the cam design and grinding to the experts!
Howards, Engle, Isky, Web or Crower. It depended on the engine that I was building as to who got the call. With the Eco-Tec my blanks would go to Web. Though Crower has jumped right in there in the Sport Compact market and I'm sure they would have some great grinds.
One thing you have to remember when having a custom cam ground for your engine, your engine specs need to stay the same. In other words you shouldn't have a cam ground for your header and intake upgrade and expect the same grind to work when you port the head etc. The cam may become extremely inefficiant at this point, again depending on the grind you had done in the first place.
Food for thought.
RC
Howards, Engle, Isky, Web or Crower. It depended on the engine that I was building as to who got the call. With the Eco-Tec my blanks would go to Web. Though Crower has jumped right in there in the Sport Compact market and I'm sure they would have some great grinds.
One thing you have to remember when having a custom cam ground for your engine, your engine specs need to stay the same. In other words you shouldn't have a cam ground for your header and intake upgrade and expect the same grind to work when you port the head etc. The cam may become extremely inefficiant at this point, again depending on the grind you had done in the first place.
Food for thought.
RC
12-31-2009, 04:50 AM
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well, **** the stock lifter. If you want to build a drag car that revs to 8k rpms (which it seems that most do), then the stock hydraulic lifters aren't what you should be using anyways.
Now does anyone have any info on any success with a specific grind for our ecotec motors? I'm talking about a pretty aggressive cam that is taking advantage of the flow. Stock lift is .395 and duration is relatively mild. I'd like to see a .500-.600 lift cam with some more duration. BLah blah blah, the low end will suffer, but if you are reving to 8k, then you don't need a powerband of 3k-8k.
Personally, I'd like to a have a cam that comes on pretty strong right about 4500 or so and carries all the way to 8k.
Now does anyone have any info on any success with a specific grind for our ecotec motors? I'm talking about a pretty aggressive cam that is taking advantage of the flow. Stock lift is .395 and duration is relatively mild. I'd like to see a .500-.600 lift cam with some more duration. BLah blah blah, the low end will suffer, but if you are reving to 8k, then you don't need a powerband of 3k-8k.
Personally, I'd like to a have a cam that comes on pretty strong right about 4500 or so and carries all the way to 8k.
12-31-2009, 04:58 PM
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