Car not Boosting past 4-5psi
Car not Boosting past 4-5psi
Sup guys,
My car has sat for about 2-3 weeks and i got to pick it up today. When I get on the throttle it doesnt seem to go past 4-5psi, i press the gas farther and nothing happens. I dont hear any squealing or anything, no CEL. Car has just stage 2 and GM exhaust. Any ideas?
Thanks!
My car has sat for about 2-3 weeks and i got to pick it up today. When I get on the throttle it doesnt seem to go past 4-5psi, i press the gas farther and nothing happens. I dont hear any squealing or anything, no CEL. Car has just stage 2 and GM exhaust. Any ideas?
Thanks!
still happening to me after I replaced the vacuum line from the bypass valve to the pcm(not sure what part this is but its attached to the pcm) The CEL is on since the guy at Discount wouldnt clear it since he couldnt gurantee that the hose would fix it. The code was Bypass/valve, do you think my Bypass valve is going bad, is this a common occurrence or is the PCm just confused b/c it has that CEL stored even though the line is fixed and is negating the boost? I turned the car off and back on and its acting normal again.
Thanks
Thanks
There is no vac line that goes the the pcm, one line goes to and from the boost solenoid, how many miles on your balt? I would check all the vac lines for leaks. Let the car idle, start spraying starter fluid on all the lines and joints, don't go crazy with that stuff it is flammable, if the idle jumps there's your leak. I have recently heard of people bypass valves going bad, and they are not cheap, although I don't know the symptoms of one going bad are.
There is no vac line that goes the the pcm, one line goes to and from the boost solenoid, how many miles on your balt? I would check all the vac lines for leaks. Let the car idle, start spraying starter fluid on all the lines and joints, don't go crazy with that stuff it is flammable, if the idle jumps there's your leak. I have recently heard of people bypass valves going bad, and they are not cheap, although I don't know the symptoms of one going bad are.
thanks!
For that low of miles, its not likely, but a slipping clutch can also be the source. For me though i was boosting 16-17lb on a stock motor and pulley (clutch slipping then grabbing hard caused the spike) to almost nothing. I usually struggled to get out of vac. (clutch plain slipping) I also had no MIL
Edit: by the time i was able to get to the clutch to fix it... it was gone, it had sheared into pieces in the housing.
Edit: by the time i was able to get to the clutch to fix it... it was gone, it had sheared into pieces in the housing.
I am not trying to steal your light here, but I am having a similar problem; however, I feel as though my SC is on the verge of crapping out (if it hasn't) already. I hear a rather loud clicking or clunking sound when it idles, also when I rev it up and hold it at about 2000 RPMs it will go from -20 to about -10 on the boost gauge and immediately drop back down to -20ish (where it sits at idle), also it will sometimes get to 5psi in 4th gear, if I am lucky.
So my main question is: Can I rebuild this thing to get more out of it, as money is tight, or am I better off saving the $$ for a new one? And if I can/should rebuild it, where can I get such a kit?
Thanks for any help, and sorry posting in your thread.
- Mitch
So my main question is: Can I rebuild this thing to get more out of it, as money is tight, or am I better off saving the $$ for a new one? And if I can/should rebuild it, where can I get such a kit?
Thanks for any help, and sorry posting in your thread.
- Mitch
having this problem again, car sat for 2 weeks this time and ive replaced all vacuum lines but this thing still wont enter boost. its throwing the turbo/supercharger boost actuator code. I pulled the vacuum line off the actuator like the boost bypass mod and i have boost, do I need to replace this actuator? Also i left it off and drove it for like 5 miles and it threw a lean code, will it still run lean if you plug this hose and run it instead of just leaving it off? Thanks for the help.
if its running lean its possible the bypass actuator isnt operating properly. disconnect the vaccum line that goes to the actuator and suck on the end (simulating vaccum to the bypass valve actuator) youll have to suck decently hard but you should see the bypass valve moving. If it moves when you suck on the vaccum line then your good. if not we'll look into other things like possibly no vaccuum getting to that line or stuck/gummed up bypass valve in the s/c
Furthermore, when you suck the vaccum line going to the bypass actuator, it should hold vaccuum it shouldn't leak at all
Furthermore, when you suck the vaccum line going to the bypass actuator, it should hold vaccuum it shouldn't leak at all
had my buddy who is a chevy mechanic plug in his tech 2. either the ground/wire is bad from the actuator to the PCM or the PCM is bad. Will let u know when he has some time to actually trace the wires.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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