2.0L LSJ Performance Tech 205hp Supercharged SS tuner version. 200 lb-ft of torque.

Clutch job! Do I have it all? Tips and tricks?

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Old 08-03-2011, 08:46 PM
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Clutch job! Do I have it all? Tips and tricks?

Here is what I am ordering. Am I missing anything?

Also are there any tricks or tips you know having done it, that you wish you knew prior?

Thanks!

Old 08-03-2011, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by xxxxsh4d0wxxxx
Here is what I am ordering. Am I missing anything?

Also are there any tricks or tips you know having done it, that you wish you knew prior?

Thanks!

Just curious.. Where you ordering from?
Old 08-03-2011, 09:40 PM
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pressure plate bolts come with the gmpp clutch kit
Old 08-03-2011, 09:45 PM
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how many miles are on your car? if not too many, id save the headache of the rear main seal. if its not leaking, id leave it alone
Old 08-03-2011, 10:47 PM
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i would recommended getting the LNF throwout bearing
Old 08-03-2011, 10:57 PM
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Are you using the LSJ build book? If not, download it (On GM Performance's site).
Old 08-03-2011, 11:30 PM
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as said, you dont need to pressure plate bolts, better ones come in the kit. flywheel bolts you will need, they are torque to yield and have to be discarded after 1 use. the flywheel, well, your call, i myself would just have yours resurfaced. if the rear main seal is not leaking, dont touch it. ecotecs arent known for rear main seal leaks, even at high mileage. if its not leaking by changing it you are more likely to end up with a leak than not changing it.

a little upgrade some people have been doing is the LNF shifter cable bracket. its a solid bracket instead of rubber mounted, aparently makes it feel a little better. crate engine depot doesnt list them, however they can get them within a few days, right around $21.

i just placed an order with them for my lsj clutch upgrade kit, flywheel bolts, pipe, and the shift cable bracket.
Old 08-03-2011, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Frew
pressure plate bolts come with the gmpp clutch kit
Thanks!

Originally Posted by Josuizzle16
Just curious.. Where you ordering from?
CED.

Originally Posted by jonxxxedge1
how many miles are on your car? if not too many, id save the headache of the rear main seal. if its not leaking, id leave it alone
Just over 82,000. From what I understood, and what I have read, the rear main seal is extremely easy to replace once the trans is off anyway. Pry the old one out, put the new one in.

Originally Posted by Traviper
i would recommended getting the LNF throwout bearing
I am 99% sure the TOB with this kit IS the LNF TOB.

Originally Posted by Nighthawk243
Are you using the LSJ build book? If not, download it (On GM Performance's site).
Yep, I will be!

Originally Posted by Sharkey
as said, you dont need to pressure plate bolts, better ones come in the kit. flywheel bolts you will need, they are torque to yield and have to be discarded after 1 use. the flywheel, well, your call, i myself would just have yours resurfaced. if the rear main seal is not leaking, dont touch it. ecotecs arent known for rear main seal leaks, even at high mileage. if its not leaking by changing it you are more likely to end up with a leak than not changing it.

a little upgrade some people have been doing is the LNF shifter cable bracket. its a solid bracket instead of rubber mounted, aparently makes it feel a little better. crate engine depot doesnt list them, however they can get them within a few days, right around $21.

i just placed an order with them for my lsj clutch upgrade kit, flywheel bolts, pipe, and the shift cable bracket.
Really? It is extremely easy to replace.. From AllData (simplified)

Remove transaxle
Pry out old seal
Clean bore and lubricate new seal
Use socket exact size as bore to push in new seal and make sure it is seated flat

That is it.. Lol

Money isn't the issue, I would prefer a new flywheel. :p

Yes, I am ordering the bracket from ZZP!

Last edited by xxxxsh4d0wxxxx; 08-03-2011 at 11:39 PM.
Old 08-04-2011, 01:09 AM
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Sub'd. I'll be swapping in the gmpp clutch eventually
Old 08-04-2011, 02:25 AM
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the seal isnt really that hard to replace, i do it day in day out (im a transmission builder/ R&I tech). however ive seen many people attempt rear main seals and screw them up. one little scratch in the crank or seal retainer and its going to leak. at my shop, we stick the "if its not leaking dont screw with it" when it comes to rear main seals.
Old 08-04-2011, 02:29 AM
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just get your flywheel resurfaced and save 100 bucks
Old 08-04-2011, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Sharkey
the seal isnt really that hard to replace, i do it day in day out (im a transmission builder/ R&I tech). however ive seen many people attempt rear main seals and screw them up. one little scratch in the crank or seal retainer and its going to leak. at my shop, we stick the "if its not leaking dont screw with it" when it comes to rear main seals.
Is it as easy as I described? How do you scratch it? I'm not sure how that is possible. Do you mean while installing the new one?

Originally Posted by DiabeticKripple
just get your flywheel resurfaced and save 100 bucks
Meh, peace of mind with a new one.
Old 08-04-2011, 02:51 AM
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as long as its not warped, it would be the same as a new one
Old 08-04-2011, 03:47 AM
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I have read many times John Powell said resurfacing the LSJ flywheel is a no-no.

As for the rear main seal - The consensus, from what I have read, is to wait until the clutch is being done, so I might as well just do it.
Old 08-08-2011, 07:19 PM
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:34 PM
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I dont know about you guys but it takes a couple days at the local machine shop to get the flywheel surfaced and balanced. I'd rather put the clutch on a new one and get it balanced and have the clutch job be a 1 day thing rather than having the car up in the air for half the week.
Old 08-08-2011, 11:07 PM
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iirc gm does state not to machine the lsj flywheel, just like they do for a lot of applications. really the only reason i can see or this on most (not all) flywheels is just so gm can sell you a new one. in almost 8 years in the transmission industry ive never had an issue machining a "do not machine" flywheel. some say not to do it because of the distance from the slave mounting surface to the flywheel, but honestly, we are talking thousands of an inch being taken off, very very little. the stepped flywheel like used in the lsj does require an extra step in the machining process and it has to be done carefully to keep the same installed height on the pressure plate.

the other thing i will mention here is that i have never heard of a machine shop balancing a flywheel after machining it. again, machining a flywheel takes off so little and takes it off very even it doesnt affect the balance of it. balancing a flywheel would add around $100 to the cost of machining and really isnt needed. and a flywheel takes less than an hour typically to machine (half the time when i send them out to be machined they drop it off within half an hour). a couple days is rediculous.

just thought id put that info out there. no matter what you choose to do, resurface or replace, either will be just fine. the important thing is the new clutch gets a clean flat surface.
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