OK, I believe I am in need of a new clutch. I do have a few questions to help arm me with information before I take the leap into a complicated endevor.

1.) For those of you who had a new clutch/flywheel installed, what did it cost and where did you have it done?

2.) did your dealership give you a hard time about it and talk about it voiding your warranty?

3.) How many hours is it supose to take for them to do it?

4.) Would it make sense for me to upgrade my rubber master cylinder to like a metal corvette one?

5.) I want a clutch that doesnt chatter, and feels as smooth as the stocker. I was thinking Spec Stage 2+ would this be a good mix of power handling and daily drivabilty?

6.) Flywheels. Is it worth while for me to upgrade my flywheel or will the stocker be fine? Is anything special supose to be done to the flywheel thats there like sanded down if I dont put a new one in?

7.) Syncro's. What are they? Where are they? What exactly do they do? Should I replace em the same time as the clutch?

Anyway thats all I can think of for now. Thanks in advance for those who can help out.

 

1. GM dealership did one for $705. I did the other two because $705 is too expensive and they screwed up my ****.

2. My warranty was voided because of the clutch, when I blew my headgasket.

3. I think I was charged like 8 hours for the one they did. But it only took me 6-6.5 including cleanup.

4. Er....Um.... Not Sure

5. I'd get the Exedy clutch/flywheel combo.

6. Definately worth it to free up some power. Stock one will have to be resurfaced if it is reused.

7. Syncro's are in the transmission. They allow the gears to come together smoothly when you shift. No need to change them out unless you have beat up your tranny and they are hosed.

 

1) I got a certified ASE Master Tech to do mine. Charge was $600. It took them 7 hours.

2) Yes, my stealership told me an aftermarket clutch voided my transmission warranty.

3) Stealership book time I was quoted is 9 hours.

4) Sure why not, let us know how it goes.

5) Just don't get a puck clutch and you should be fine on the chatter.

6) It is worth it. Less rotating mass for the crank. Yes it has to be resurfaced.

7) Not unless you jacked them up.

 

Thanks guys. I woulda fought the headgasket going to the death because that has nothing to do with a clutch.... I could see where the tranny going would make sense, but a head gasket? come on....

The reason above is why I am thinking of taking it to a tranny shop. First off they warranty the clutch side of things for 12 months. Secondly, if my headgasket where to go and I took it to my stealership they wouldnt even know about the clutch and hence I would probably get my **** fixed.

The exedy twin plate clutch sounds good. good for 800+ TQ and weights in w/ flywheel @ 15 lbs.... I dont think it is out yet though. The stage 3 exedy clutch is a pucked clutch. I dont want a 6 puck. Disk is fine for me, but I think a Twin disk clutch would be freaking sweet. Just pray its not more expensive then the stage 3....

questions:

Master cylider. This is just something I have heard, I dont even know if it is accurate or not. Would one off a corvette fit or is there anyway to find out? I assume when the tranny is apart this would be very simple? I heard since ours is hard rubber or what ever it can crack or leak, and a metal one wont do that? Also it bends, where a metal one would not?

so about 600-700 for a clutch/flywheel install. Damn... well guess I will be holding off on HPTuners and a heat exchanger...

Is there a way to check the fluid level in the clutch that I could do just to make sure its full, or to make sure the tranny case didnt crack and leak onto my existing clutch?

EDIT: Oh this is Xenozx, I just was sitting at my bro's PC when I wrote this hehe

 

Man I dont know what is wrong now. Me and my bro took it out today and it was perfect.... Grabbed everytime across 6 or so 7000 k shifts in a row....

I did throw some intake CEL's tho... p0143 and 103, so I think its time to get tuned? Too cold for the A/F ratio?

 

i showed my bro how to properly shift the car! its alil from badmunkys hypothosis!

tranny likes to leak small amounts of fluid on clutch/flywheel (idea #1)

or

clutch grabs better when hot (idea #2) i dunno which one it is but i just shifted his car in a higher RPM to heat it up and down shifted alot warming it up a bit more. seemed to grab alot better but its soooo cold out right now hes pulling alot of intake type codes.

so i have ruled out his tranny or clutch going as of yet. but i will check his trannsmission mounts tomarrow, and hope he gets tuned soon.

 

1) got my done at some shitty shop for cheap and they screwed me over.

2) dealership said, nothing, i dont let them touch my car unless need be.

3) a day.

4) i would recomend upgrading the master, mine leaked.

5) My spec 2+ chattered.

6) i would deff get the flywheel too, revs so much faster, and when installing the clutch your done there anyway so why not.

7) sync, should be fine.

 

bah, still slipping

Took it out today...

like WTF. IM gonna take it to my Stealership and see their assessment. I assume ill go from there. If they say no broken mounts, or cracked case, then I will take it to a shop and have a new clutch/flywheel installed.

So all I should have to do is look up the part # for the master cylinder from a Corvette and buy that and take it to em when the install takes place and I should be good?

 

The master cylinder you're looking for isn't on a c6 it is off a c5. And it isn't just a direct swap. The c5 master cylinder has a seperate reservoir where ours uses thebrake reservoir. It will take some possible fab work or some way to mount the reservoir.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02...spagenameZWDVW
I think this is what you are looking for. This is what I was looking at when I was considering replacing my clutch.

 

I C, so to clarify, our current car uses the brake resevoir, the one in the engine bay?

Taking that to a tranny shop, would the be able to custom fab an install of something like that?

Lately my cars rev limiter has beenin hitting at 6500 all the time now, when I am stage 2 and it should be hitting 7000, any idea why it would be hitting in early? Could a slipping clutch fool the ECU into thinking IM higher in the RPM's then I really am?

 

Stay away from Clutch masters! I had some bad experiences...

I believe your talking about the slave cylinder not the master cylinder...

 

I think my clutch problems stem from it being really cold out. My brother has me shifting at 4000 K durring regular driving, and now when I race my clutch grabs fine. Its strange, and I will still be buying a new clutch but atleast this gives me some time to save up some loot to get it all done w/ a clutch/flywheel and the install fees.

I do have another problem though, and I will probably make a separate post about it, but it also has to deal with the cold.

WHEN its <40 degrees out like it has been the last few nights, and I punch it and go near 7000K I get p0103 CEL codes that I believe deal with intake. it doesnt make a CEL, it just logs it under my interceptor even though my CEL light doesnt come on.

Also when its really cold my REV LIMITER kicks in @6500K instead of 7000K. This is the really anoying part. As once it hits limiter 500 RPMS beofore its supose to my car jumps into LIMP mode, and my shifts are real boggy, and I have to shut my car off and then turn it back on to get it to go away.

Does this mean my A/F is fubar'd? Do I need to go get my **** tuned to keep this from happening? Let me know, cause if so I will get my car tuned ASAP.

Thanks.

 

I really don't know for sure but I have a feeling it has to do with the denser air of the cold weather coming in to the intake and that is throwing your a/f off. That's just an idea. I am interested in others opinions.

 

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...345#post607345