Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

So i have been noticing lately that my Cobalt SS/SC when accelerating seems like it looses power around 4,500 or 5,000 rpms. Idk how to describe it other then the power just doesn't feel there feels like i'm pulling it more then it wants to go. Now i don't beat on my car, i baby it more then anything just every now and again i get on it. Now the other day i was at a stop light on hill and the corner of westwood. So out my UT the scott park campus. At a stop light i took off i shifted fine into 2nd then while getting on it the power roped car went limp so to speak. Now the engine light came on and the computer thing said engine power reduced. I freaked and called Yark they said my MAF sensor went off. Said had it been the stock airbox they would have said fix the throttle body. When my car did this i parked right away and when i did i could hear it puttering. Sounded almost like it was gonna stall out and i was had no power. Now Yark tells me it said airflow greater then expected. Now i only have an Injen intake and the rest of my car is bone stock. Im wondering your opinions on fixing this so that it does not do this again. Also im wondering any one have any problems like this. Someone told me your supposed to reset the car after any modification wondering this true. They tell me your supposed to unhook wire from battery then turn car and lights on to drain remaining power in car. Then replug the cable to battery and start the car. They say this will reset the computer. Wondering is this a true fact or just a dumb myth. Thanks for your help as always.

SSSCEnthusiast

That works on SRT 4's... not with our cars.. However, I dont see why your CAI would put you into Reduced Power aka "Limp" mode. There's no reason your MAF should max out from an intake, unless you lost your filter somewhere or something?

OneCOLDBIZL272

iTrader: (2)

Your Maf frequency needs to be adjusted, your maxing the stock calibrations, the only way to solve the problem is you need to have someone tune you with hptuners or you need to go back to stock, and disconnecting your battery for ten mins will reset you car turning off your check engine light so dont listen to what the fool said above he doesnt know what hes talking about, it does works, but it will only be a matter of time before it happens again, next time it happens to you and the car goes into limp mode, pull over and turn the car off take the key out open your door so the radio goes off, the power is now completely off to your car, let the car sit for 10-15 mins the car will start again, I had the same problem with mine, so I know it sounds stupid but, it does work, but you need to get tuned or go back to stock till you can, because your going to be running lean with the intake other wise your going to mess **** up, iv seen it happen locally to about 4 people not joking

FrankTheTank

that happened to me. I'm taking it in today. But i think my problem has more to do with a bad cat. I'm getting hella big time boost but no top end power.

Karlen89

iTrader: (1)

There's all kinds of things that go along with this "Limp" mode...more than most people on here realize.

Unplugging your battery doesn't do **** to help, so don't waste your time on it.

Have the codes ran, and dealer look at it. Mine turned out to be a bad BARO sensor that was warranty replaced.

Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

i did forget to mention i had a month back or so i had it in the shop. My car has done this 2 times without the intake. Yark the dealer said it was sensors and buddies father hooked his thing up before and showed me the codes. I had to replace 3 sensors. Supercharger inlet, BARO, and 1 other i dont remember. Warrenty fixed the 3 sensors however they wouldnt do anything this time because they said the intake caused it. Does anyone on here have an hptuner and near Toledo im willing to drive to get this damn thing fixed. How much would a tuner be?

Edubs

Your issue isn't the intake. The problem is elsewhere if you're popping the SCIP, MAP and, I'm guessing, MAF.

Return it to stock and take it to a different dealer. They need to look further into this...

Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

haha **** me right? god it sounds so good with the intake but if its not gonna work what ya gonna do?

Edubs

Like I said, it's not the intake dood. I just told you to take it off so you don't have to explain that it's not the intake to the next dealer. There's a problem and it's not your fault, it's GM's. Unless, you modified more than you've told us...

Go to your buddies dad or Advanced and get the codes read. Come back here and we'll start with those.

Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

haha i know. Yea thats all the modded is just intake. I bought it stock and have left it that way since besides more recently the intake. Yea idk i mean the MAF sensor mighta been the one that went off before and if it went off at stock idk what else it could be so i agree

Edubs

Seriously, go get your codes read...

light'bolt

my car did the same thing, repeatedly. I would shut it off wait 5 min restart. It took forever to get to work, I couldn't go past 2500 rpms without going to limp mode. These were my codes when scanned.

P0121 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1 Performance ECM, PCM.

P1101 Intake Air Flow System Performance ECM, PCM -

P0068 Throttle Body Airflow Performance ECM, PCM –

P2228 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage PCM –


P2228 only occured once but the other 3 codes occured about 5 times, which was the amount of times the car went to limp mode.

I cleaned and excercised the throttle body and the car ran fine on the way home, 24 miles on the hiway, even out ran an Eclipse GT, but thats another story. I then went to the grocery store, did my usual 30-70 run on the hiway and a few seconds later it happend again, cel and limp mode. The same CEL codes again. This time I brought the computer and I logged the car. When I reached 35% Throttle Position it went into limp mode. I excercised the throttle body and it worked fine again. I logged the route to the store and back the MAF error was about 6% and I'm used to seeing it 0 +/- 1% I figure it was the cold weather. I recalibrated the MAF and flashed the car.

So far its worked fine, though I haven't gone WOT yet. I ordered the throttle body from CED and bought a new maf sensor. I will put it on this weekend and check the wiring harness's for loose or semi broken wires. Still not sold on getting a new Baro sensor just yet. Though looking at past logs it seems to always be at 14.

Karlen89

iTrader: (1)

It's not your intake. It's not your intake.

You get it yet? lol

Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

haha yea im taking it back to stock and then running it and hopefully it happens again and when it does i can pull the codes and have dealer fix my car. I mean it is getting cold here so i was thinking that was part of it but it has happened twice before the intake so we'll see

Karlen89

iTrader: (1)

I doubt swapping the intake back out will fix it. The code will still be there. But it's worth a try, I guess. Get it to a dealer when you get a chance. The worst thing they can do is tell you it's not warranty and tell you what is causing it..

Hobbitjones

iTrader: (1)

Thats the thing it just happened last week and i took it in to a dealer. They said they MAF sensor said air flow greater then expected or whatever and caused the engine power reduction light and thats what sent the car into limp mode. now he said had it been a stock airbox they would have replaced the throttle body but he didn't think that was the cause and didn't want to sell me a 250 dollar part when thats not what he thinks causing it

Karlen89

iTrader: (1)

I took my car into a dealer out here in 29 Palms, Ca (I'm from Ks) anywhoo, the looked at it, and told me it was my intake causing it..an Injen intake. They said the plastic boot was too weak, and ripping the wires out of the BARO sensor, said they'd fix it for $225. I was like whatever, fix it. So I get the car back, and on the 30 mile drive back to base, it did it again 2 miles from base. I took it back in, with the Injen intake still on it, and they were like "Oh, it's your BARO sensor doing it...replaceable under warranty." They replaced the BARO and it's run fine since.