Are cooling mods a waste of money?
i have had an lsj for over five years now, and never had anything better than stock cooling. at one point, i had a bad ic pump for months.
i bought all the cooling mods prior to installing a 2.8" pulley. after installing it, i was able to pull good timing, and even at 160* iat2, i did not have kr. so i sold the cooling mods for some extra cash.
i have seen a few knowledgeable lsj guys on this forum say that the cooling mods arent as necessary as the rest of the forum makes them seem. and a bunch of other people comparing their performance on the butt dyno. so until i see real proof, or test it out myself, im not going to spend money on cooling.
i dont know why you are asking this question op. i presented this idea to you months ago, and now you bring it up again.. for what gain? you arent going to take the mods off of your car, and some of us arent going to put them on. its not about who is right and who is wrong. everyone's situation is different.
i bought all the cooling mods prior to installing a 2.8" pulley. after installing it, i was able to pull good timing, and even at 160* iat2, i did not have kr. so i sold the cooling mods for some extra cash.
i have seen a few knowledgeable lsj guys on this forum say that the cooling mods arent as necessary as the rest of the forum makes them seem. and a bunch of other people comparing their performance on the butt dyno. so until i see real proof, or test it out myself, im not going to spend money on cooling.
i dont know why you are asking this question op. i presented this idea to you months ago, and now you bring it up again.. for what gain? you arent going to take the mods off of your car, and some of us arent going to put them on. its not about who is right and who is wrong. everyone's situation is different.
im doin the same...ill be takin most of my cooling mods of wen i put my 2.4 in.
nos and option B will be all ill have
actually isn't there dyno proofs of cars with Cooling mods to no cooling mods. After the 3rd run no cooling mods lost alot of power because of timing. I'd rather have **** tons of cooling so i can do 100+ pulls and all of them have great Numbers instead of 1 Hard pull and the next one get slower and so forth.
Cooling mods are needed in some cases. Why do u think GMS3 sells a dual pass with it's kit, pretty sure gm knew what they were doing. U want a hot motor that runs like **** than don't do cooling.
im sure the motor will last forever if it's overheating
Cooling mods are needed in some cases. Why do u think GMS3 sells a dual pass with it's kit, pretty sure gm knew what they were doing. U want a hot motor that runs like **** than don't do cooling.
im sure the motor will last forever if it's overheating
actually isn't there dyno proofs of cars with Cooling mods to no cooling mods. After the 3rd run no cooling mods lost alot of power because of timing. I'd rather have **** tons of cooling so i can do 100+ pulls and all of them have great Numbers instead of 1 Hard pull and the next one get slower and so forth.
Cooling mods are needed in some cases. Why do u think GMS3 sells a dual pass with it's kit, pretty sure gm knew what they were doing. U want a hot motor that runs like **** than don't do cooling.
im sure the motor will last forever if it's overheating
Cooling mods are needed in some cases. Why do u think GMS3 sells a dual pass with it's kit, pretty sure gm knew what they were doing. U want a hot motor that runs like **** than don't do cooling.
im sure the motor will last forever if it's overheating
thats the thing, i dont argue all of that.. but i dont even drag race my car, much less roadrace it. and i dont do consecutive back to back pulls. i either do city driving where i sit, or interstate driving where i cruise. and i only hit power enrichment when i get on the interstate. and after cruising, the temps go back down.
Like our Jag is AWD, but I'm not out looking for muddy hills to climb in a sedan, but it sure does come in handy when it snows once or twice a year
^ i get that.
What he said was he doesnt go to the track or the drag strip. so no you dont need cooling mods, youre not pushing it, however that doesnt make the mods themselves useless.
What he said was he doesnt go to the track or the drag strip. so no you dont need cooling mods, youre not pushing it, however that doesnt make the mods themselves useless.
actually isn't there dyno proofs of cars with Cooling mods to no cooling mods. After the 3rd run no cooling mods lost alot of power because of timing. I'd rather have **** tons of cooling so i can do 100+ pulls and all of them have great Numbers instead of 1 Hard pull and the next one get slower and so forth.
Cooling mods are needed in some cases. Why do u think GMS3 sells a dual pass with it's kit, pretty sure gm knew what they were doing. U want a hot motor that runs like **** than don't do cooling.
im sure the motor will last forever if it's overheating
Cooling mods are needed in some cases. Why do u think GMS3 sells a dual pass with it's kit, pretty sure gm knew what they were doing. U want a hot motor that runs like **** than don't do cooling.
im sure the motor will last forever if it's overheating
its a matter of weighing options as i have said all along. doesnt make me wrong or right
i didnt say they were useless either though. this is the point i have tried to make all along. op in his right and wrong, black and white nature of looking at things made this thread to steer everyone towards installing cooling mods, because he feels its the right way. but for some people, its not necessary.
I agree with mrbelvedere on this. Cooling mods are not needed at all. Are they a waste of money though? No I don't think so. It all depends what you do with your car. My car is loaded with cooling mods and can still say they're not needed. When I go to the drag track I can get in a few back to back passes most days so that's why I run what I do. To recoupe my IAT's faster to get back in line. So if you do a lot of back to back pulls or road racing like mrbelvedere said, then it's a good investment. Otherwise it's not "needed". The best actual cooling mods are water/meth and nos. They will actually affect your IAT2 during a pull.
IMHO go with option B and a dual pass.
Option B allows for better contact and heat transfer because it prevents air from accumulating and insulating the laminovas and heat exchanger.
Dual pass will not only aid in heat recovery but will slow the build up of heat in the first place. On the stock 4 pass by the time the intercooler fluid gets to the last laminova the water temp has gone up significantly and it's ability to absorb heat from the air is impaired when you compare it to the first laminova. Single pass is better again but because it is more of a pain in the ass and you are chasing diminishing returns it is not cost effective unless you are try to do everything to your car to max put it's potential.
Phenolic spacers I think work better in theory than in real life. While you are insulating the intake from the hot engine you still have heat transfer from the engine bay itself. Even though it air doesnt transfer the heat as well as metal to metal does the intake has a large surface area to absorb heat from the engine bay. Might work better if you were able to insulate the intake.
Anyone ever try using a phenolic spacer along with insulating the intake? Maybe a spray foam and then wrapped with reflectix
All About ReflectixŽ | Frequently Asked Questions...
And then more spray foam on top. I dont think it will make huge difference because the Heaton is the biggest source of heat but it might help a little. Weld up a water jacket for the intake, put a heat exchanger in passenger fender with fender vents and actively cool the intake so it remains at ambient temp. Again I don't think it will make a huge difference but it wouldn't cost much to DIY.
There are lots of things to do but most can only make a small difference because you are pushing m62 out of its efficiency window. It is cheaper in the long run to go tvs or turbo if you are pursuing big power on the lsj.
Option B allows for better contact and heat transfer because it prevents air from accumulating and insulating the laminovas and heat exchanger.
Dual pass will not only aid in heat recovery but will slow the build up of heat in the first place. On the stock 4 pass by the time the intercooler fluid gets to the last laminova the water temp has gone up significantly and it's ability to absorb heat from the air is impaired when you compare it to the first laminova. Single pass is better again but because it is more of a pain in the ass and you are chasing diminishing returns it is not cost effective unless you are try to do everything to your car to max put it's potential.
Phenolic spacers I think work better in theory than in real life. While you are insulating the intake from the hot engine you still have heat transfer from the engine bay itself. Even though it air doesnt transfer the heat as well as metal to metal does the intake has a large surface area to absorb heat from the engine bay. Might work better if you were able to insulate the intake.
Anyone ever try using a phenolic spacer along with insulating the intake? Maybe a spray foam and then wrapped with reflectix
All About ReflectixŽ | Frequently Asked Questions...
And then more spray foam on top. I dont think it will make huge difference because the Heaton is the biggest source of heat but it might help a little. Weld up a water jacket for the intake, put a heat exchanger in passenger fender with fender vents and actively cool the intake so it remains at ambient temp. Again I don't think it will make a huge difference but it wouldn't cost much to DIY.
There are lots of things to do but most can only make a small difference because you are pushing m62 out of its efficiency window. It is cheaper in the long run to go tvs or turbo if you are pursuing big power on the lsj.
You got that right! I am running pump gas! I don't have E85 around in my location. But there is 1 up North but I don't want to keep driving an hour n half just to get E85! That's why I got all the cooling mods.



