Shoulda went snail...... Jk.... I see ure point and i raise you to this. If one ic pump fails and one is working what happens then. If you put two pumps in you have more chance of part failure to me is not worth it. If i were sced still id do e and use a zzp single pass and also run meth to cool iat2s so there wouldnt be a issue with runing a bad ass amount of timing

 

Thats the beauty of having them in parallel. Its just like christmas lights. In the newer chains, the lights are wired in parallel, so if one fails, the rest of the lights still work. With the pumps, if one fails, the other will still operate normally. It would be like a branch valve closing. The flow through the failed pump would minimal if not zero, but there would still be another path for flow through the second pump.

 

i get what ure saying but you will need a pump that flows less or your coolant wont disepate the heat fully. With the h.e since itll be flowing more

 

I've heard that you can go over board with IC pumps, you dont need a crazy amount of flow.

 

why do u think zzp actually makes a module that will reduce coolant flow under certain condidtions?

 

Link?

I don't get why reduced coolant flow would be a good thing. What kind of situation warrants this set up? Companies are producing dual/single pass IM for faster, better cooling and both of those setups, by design, have a better flow rate.

If the H/E can't dissipate the heat fast enough it is inadequate.

Dual pumps would work if the system was designed around higher flow rate. This means a dual/single pass IM and a larger H/E would likely be necessary to compliment the higher coolant flow.

 

^^ well since ure mr guru of the sc setups and how the flow works go ahead and waste ure time.

 

U can make anything work. But are you really wanting to throw away money like you will be to make it work....

 

think of it this way...the slower the water goes through the actual heat exchanger (the radiator part of the system) the cooler the water will get. at the same time, the slower the water goes through the cores, the more heat it will absord. the dual pass and things like that are about quantity. the more that can go through the better. doesnt alway mean it has to move faster. a dual pass make the coolant spend less time in the cores because it only passed through 2 instead of 4. which means cooler water entering the radiator part, which means cooler air. i have my theories on these systems, and i have seen arguements both ways. it is my belief that a setup that is stock in every way EXCEPT the amount of fluid it hold will be better. more fluid means it will take longer to heat it up, with means it will stay cooler longer.

 

here is a link....it id for cable throttle body cars only apparently...looks like it wont work with the LSJ. it should however work on my L61.

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...=816&catid=139

 

If I am a guru what does that make you?



I'm not going to do it. Increasing performance always has diminishing returns. I think an aftermarket H/E and dual pass are adequate for most people including myself.

 

Its true that by increasing flow rate the coolant would cool down less in the HE, but I already said this. The compromise is that it also won't get as hot in the cores. Because the coolant is moving faster, it spends less time in both stages of the loop. Like I said before, the average temperature in the system should remain relatively unchanged, and again, Option B would be a MUST. Without the extra coolant volume, increasing flow rate could, and most likely would, overwhelm the HE and you would see runaway IC coolant temps.

The thing that a lot of people are missing though, is that the rate of heat transfer through the heat exchanger depends on three things: Cooling surface area, A design constant, and the difference in temperature between the heat sink (air moving through HE) and the average temp of the heat source (hot coolant) if the difference between those temps increases, the rate at which heat is transferred goes up too. What does all that mean? If coolant flow increase, cold coolant temps go up, causing the rate of heat transfer in the HE to go up---> coolant flow goes up, causing the HE to exchange heat faster.

 

Im somone who sees no point in spending the amount of money its gonna take to make this system work good. Im really good at what i do and ect so im just saying it like so... Its simply worthless

 

i agree, but no matter how hot or cold it is, it will never cool down to full potential if it is forced through the system that fast...read the discription in the link i provided. it makes perfect sense. also, having a system that hold twice as much, or even 3 times as much fluid as is required will keep temps down. not only will it make it harder to increase the temps, but the temp will come down faster, and stay more constant because the coolant will be at a lower temp in every point of the system then it normally would be in a stock system.

 

Evofire you and i are on the same boat... You can not cool the iat2z enough to be beneficial like a turbo or meth.

 

not unless ur running meth or an ice box...IMO anything ~25 over ambient is good. Its 100 degrees here in AZ and i see 125-132 iat's with a stock system....i am perfectly happy with that.

 

people try to bring physics and stuff into these arguements, and sometimes pure knowledge of real world actual data is better. you will NEVER get cooler then ambient no matter what unless u use meth or ice.

even on an NA car, iats with rise due to engine heat and things.. my buddy has a cts-v that is NA and he sees 120 iats on a 70 degree night while racing. so if i can see 130 after compression with a blower...im happy.

 

volume>flow
you dont need to bring it lower
you need the ait2 to go back to
as low as it can be asap for it
to be efficient.

 

Yeh i get it all lol.. Thats why im gonna throw a bag of ice in my charge pipes hahaha im jk...

 

so what do you guys see for IAT's anyways.

last night was the first night below 80* here in like 4 months. It was 70 when i left work. I railed on my car HARD HARD HARD. 0-70 pulls, 40-100 pulls, 0-100 pulls, and my intake temps never went about 95 until i stopped and the air wasnt moving across the heat exchanger anymore. id say, for as basic of a system as this is. I am running the STOCK cobalt ss system on my sunfire, it works pretty damn well. I do believe that the GM build book says anythign around 25* above ambient is considered good on these systems. and mind you, this is ever with a 3 inch pulley.