The dual-pass setup is not about gaining extra flow. It's about making better, more efficient use of the flow that's already there by re-routing it.

Referring to my pictures on page 6, the lower 2 cores are switched around to make 2 seperate paths through the intake manifold. Instead of one path (stock) getting heated by 4 laminova coils, 2 paths (dual-pass) are getting heated by 2 laminova coils. The extra coolant in the surge tank is helpful at dispersing even more heat, but, again, is more for bleeding the air from the system than anything else.

 

so i just bought a used cobalt 2006 cobalt ss and i have this system on it. i am wondering how you mounted the second surge tank? mine is just kinda sitting above the passenger side front shock! so if you could help me out there i would appreciate it.

 

Thats pretty much the only place to mount the second tank.

 

quickredline answered everything any of you need to know in the second post.

option b in my understanding doesn't actually cool anything, just keeps the system from getting hotter.

 

the redline one is a little more convenient in terms of hose routing/outlets, the cobalt one can be made to work.

yes thats right, by self bleeding and putting the "head" the reservoir well above the laminova, and h/e and running a bleed line from the top of the h/e to the coolant reservoir the option b tank permits the laminova to do its work. ANY air bubbles in the h/e system takes away from the ability of the laminova to transfer heat from the inlet air charge to the coolant, therefore the inlet air temps get hotter....ls!body? he's on it and he understands...

 

a friend of mine is runnig the op b/dual/h-e setup with water and redline wetter and he get some great numbers.....

 

is there any way to secure it better? its just like floating there? haha

 

expect 500000 whp
little less torque
300 degree drop in IAT2 temps
and makes the north pole recover ice due to global warming.

..............

 

You guys will be amazed at what running distilled water + additives does in the stock cooling system during summer months

 

??? what its does?

 

Dexcool offers the capability of the fluid not freezing in sub-freezing temperatures. Most stock GM motors run a 50/50 mix of Dexcool and distilled water. If you're in a climate (FL or North East in Summer) where the temperature won't drop below freezing, you can run distilled water and an additive to keep the cooling system at much lower temperatures than what Dexcool can offer...

Lower cooling system temperatures allows for a much more efficient S/C setup and more consistent power.

 

Thanks... I was hoping someone on here would understand what I was talking about.. lol.

 

how do you check your IAT's?

 

hptuners or an interceptor are the 2 easiest ways

 

Is there actually any other way?

 

actually.... i don't know..

 

click

 

There is actually this OBDII port logger (only does up to 4 parameters at once though)... so yes there is another way

its cool too, only like 100..

 

i have the stock and cx h/e it takes me 1 whole gallon of coolant. if that isnt enough then i dunnno... and yes i believe running both will net lower temps.... it gets cooled from stock h/e then moves( cools while it moves) and cooled in the cx front mount then to the manifold.. why does everybody think its better to run 1??? just the science behind it doesnt add up. more coolant Heat is transferred from the hot tubes and fins to the cool outside air. the more the better
The first equation describes the overall heat transfer that occurs.
Q = U x A x DTlm


Q is the amount of energy that is transferred.
U is called the heat transfer coefficient. It is a measure of how well the exchanger transfers heat. The bigger the number, the better the transfer.A is the heat transfer area, or the surface area of the intercooler tubes and fins that is exposed to the outside air.
DTlm is called the log mean temperature difference. It is an indication of the "driving force", or the overall average difference in temperature between the hot and cold fluids. The equation for this is:

 

Im doin a dual pass and opt b just cuz i do alot of city driving with stop and go so i get soaked like a motha *****. And any cooling mods is worth it to this motor.

Plus u have to tune for meth, endplate and opt b u dont have to tune. But any cooling is worth it.

 

that's the most accurate statement right there

 

Ultimate cooling mod: -40C lol.........c'mon summer, I miss you.

 

i tried using search but i didnt find anything but anyways to do the option B, are there any special tools needed to do it. For example like taking the supercharger off, ect....

 

All you should need: http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/pdfs/sidekit.pdf

 

okay i have a heat exchanger ill will be installing with a dual pass. is having a dual pass only considered option 1? and if i was to get the other tank and intalled is that whats called option b? i never really understood the option a part so anyone wants to help me out? i plan to get meth with my dual pass and extra h.e but was looking into option b too. but yea whats the diff from option A and option B? thanks for the help ahead of time