Dual Pass - Option B Testimonials
okay i have a heat exchanger ill will be installing with a dual pass. is having a dual pass only considered option 1? and if i was to get the other tank and intalled is that whats called option b? i never really understood the option a part so anyone wants to help me out? i plan to get meth with my dual pass and extra h.e but was looking into option b too. but yea whats the diff from option A and option B? thanks for the help ahead of time
im a bit new with this. got a pic of the lil neck ur talking about? and how hard will it be to add option b to my h.e and dual pass?

In this pick notice the new reservoir & the neck is gone, the reservoir takes the place of the neck!

In this pic you can see I didn't use the redline reservoir, I made my own. In the picture you see the reservoir for Option B, it has a 1/4 in line & a 3/4 inch out line... plus the cap has a pressure release just like the redline bottle they recommend you buy!
oh so option b removes the front reservior and just puts a bigger one on the other side of the car? which ends up in more coolant to flow? and easier to stay cooler? so whateverline was on the stock reservior it gets transfered to the new tank? and then the other line that does out from the option b tank goes where?.. how how does it all go? from option b tank to extra h.e and then the other line to the other stock reservior or what?
oh so option b removes the front reservior and just puts a bigger one on the other side of the car? which ends up in more coolant to flow? and easier to stay cooler? so whateverline was on the stock reservior it gets transfered to the new tank? and then the other line that does out from the option b tank goes where?.. how how does it all go? from option b tank to extra h.e and then the other line to the other stock reservior or what?


If you run a Front Mount H/E also... then you run the aftercooler line out ....too the front mount in.....Then out of the front mount too the center of the dual pass endplate like shown in diagram. This basicly puts your H/E inline, stock to utilize the fans to cool it down & then the front mount dual pass H/E to cooool it down even further & also increasing youramount of fluid...On top of all that you have a bigger reservoir that is constantly bleeding the air out of the system making the heat transfer even better.
Last edited by BlilBT; Feb 7, 2009 at 03:45 PM.
I'm hoping to install the CX Racing H/E, Dual Passe endplate and the "Option B" additonal surge tank. For those with experience, here is the question I am wrestling with:
1) Keep the stock heat exchanger or remove it?
Keep: Easier to setup the air bleed system as there is a provision for it on the stock h/e.
Remove: Cleaner install. I can remove the stock h/e, then bolt the CX h/e in line with the other exchangers, not having to drill into my crash bar (as in the "how to"), and raising it for more clearance.
Thoughts? Experiences? =NOT(Opinions)
1) Keep the stock heat exchanger or remove it?
Keep: Easier to setup the air bleed system as there is a provision for it on the stock h/e.
Remove: Cleaner install. I can remove the stock h/e, then bolt the CX h/e in line with the other exchangers, not having to drill into my crash bar (as in the "how to"), and raising it for more clearance.
Thoughts? Experiences? =NOT(Opinions)
I'm hoping to install the CX Racing H/E, Dual Passe endplate and the "Option B" additonal surge tank. For those with experience, here is the question I am wrestling with:
1) Keep the stock heat exchanger or remove it?
Keep: Easier to setup the air bleed system as there is a provision for it on the stock h/e.
Remove: Cleaner install. I can remove the stock h/e, then bolt the CX h/e in line with the other exchangers, not having to drill into my crash bar (as in the "how to"), and raising it for more clearance.
Thoughts? Experiences? =NOT(Opinions)
1) Keep the stock heat exchanger or remove it?
Keep: Easier to setup the air bleed system as there is a provision for it on the stock h/e.
Remove: Cleaner install. I can remove the stock h/e, then bolt the CX h/e in line with the other exchangers, not having to drill into my crash bar (as in the "how to"), and raising it for more clearance.
Thoughts? Experiences? =NOT(Opinions)
look up under the radiator support while you've got your hood open and you'll see a small cap/screw on the top about a third of the way in on the passenger side
put both in line. there's no real data from anyone that says either one is better than the other. plus its a lot easier and is still a clean install.
well, theoretically you can say every 20 degrees F in = approximately .5psi, and with the average conversion for psi to horsepower at 1psi = approximately 10hp. then you can say maybe 5 horsepower is picked up if you see that 20 degree difference. This is a loose correlation and doesn't have a great deal of science behind it.
I think if you have the cobra H/E, dual pass and option B you might see about 25 degrees MAX lower at WOT and much less heatsoak.
I think if you have the cobra H/E, dual pass and option B you might see about 25 degrees MAX lower at WOT and much less heatsoak.
Like this!


If you run a Front Mount H/E also... then you run the aftercooler line out ....too the front mount in.....Then out of the front mount too the center of the dual pass endplate like shown in diagram. This basicly puts your H/E inline, stock to utilize the fans to cool it down & then the front mount dual pass H/E to cooool it down even further & also increasing youramount of fluid...On top of all that you have a bigger reservoir that is constantly bleeding the air out of the system making the heat transfer even better.


If you run a Front Mount H/E also... then you run the aftercooler line out ....too the front mount in.....Then out of the front mount too the center of the dual pass endplate like shown in diagram. This basicly puts your H/E inline, stock to utilize the fans to cool it down & then the front mount dual pass H/E to cooool it down even further & also increasing youramount of fluid...On top of all that you have a bigger reservoir that is constantly bleeding the air out of the system making the heat transfer even better.
My next question is if I should be bleeding air out of the additional h/e or just the stock h/e. The reason being that it occured to me that the inlet hoses on the cx racing h/e are halfway down, meaning air could get trapped above them.
I'm going to try and replace the pressure cap with a non-pressure cap (as my option B tank has one already), then run a 1/4" hose (with orafice) from the overflow tube on the cx h/e to a "T" with the air bleed line from the stock h/e. In my opinion, this should bleed air from both.
That is, unless someone can convince me that in a pressurized system, air doesn't float to the top.....but I think it does.
I'm going to try and replace the pressure cap with a non-pressure cap (as my option B tank has one already), then run a 1/4" hose (with orafice) from the overflow tube on the cx h/e to a "T" with the air bleed line from the stock h/e. In my opinion, this should bleed air from both.
That is, unless someone can convince me that in a pressurized system, air doesn't float to the top.....but I think it does.
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