Dynoed the SS
What was the BARO pressure, ambient temperatures and SAE correction factors?
You could of made these pulls on a cold winter's night in Death Valley!!
(then they wouldnt be so impressive)
WopOnTour
You could of made these pulls on a cold winter's night in Death Valley!!
(then they wouldnt be so impressive)
WopOnTour
Originally Posted by WopOnTour
What was the BARO pressure, ambient temperatures and SAE correction factors?
You could of made these pulls on a cold winter's night in Death Valley!!
(then they wouldnt be so impressive)
WopOnTour
You could of made these pulls on a cold winter's night in Death Valley!!
(then they wouldnt be so impressive)
WopOnTour
Lol, no idea, I just slipped the dyno man a $20 and told him to do some "inflation".
Hmm...I don't understand whats going on with the dyno and gear difference.
I've always understood that dynoing in a gear BEFORE the 1:1 gear will give lower power numbers. I've seen that with alot of cars including mine. But I've never heard of it giving you higher power numbers.
But I've also seen some dynos not make a difference between the gears. Which I guess is the dyno actually correcting for that. And I'm sure the different types of dynos make a difference there.
And your A/F really needs to be closer to 11.8:1 for max power. 10:1 is just choking the motor, not keping it cool, lol.
The only difference I can think of with the gear you used in each dyno, is possible the heat soak. Running it up through 2nd gear won't generate as much heat as it would running it up all the way through 3rd gear. But whether that heat difference is enough to rob that much power is the question.
I've always understood that dynoing in a gear BEFORE the 1:1 gear will give lower power numbers. I've seen that with alot of cars including mine. But I've never heard of it giving you higher power numbers.
But I've also seen some dynos not make a difference between the gears. Which I guess is the dyno actually correcting for that. And I'm sure the different types of dynos make a difference there.
And your A/F really needs to be closer to 11.8:1 for max power. 10:1 is just choking the motor, not keping it cool, lol.
The only difference I can think of with the gear you used in each dyno, is possible the heat soak. Running it up through 2nd gear won't generate as much heat as it would running it up all the way through 3rd gear. But whether that heat difference is enough to rob that much power is the question.
Originally Posted by CobaltSS422
Tofu... u got a CEL? or you're one of the lucky ones? 
LOL, not lucky at all, I've got two of em! The "engine running lean" and "PCM internal Malfunction".
Originally Posted by eastcoastz
Tofu,
That PCM malfunction code is very bad! Get it fixed ASAP! We just had a Tiburon in our shop that blew the engine with this code. I ran the car lean for months a killed the engine.
That PCM malfunction code is very bad! Get it fixed ASAP! We just had a Tiburon in our shop that blew the engine with this code. I ran the car lean for months a killed the engine.
the way ive always known it, you dyno as close as you can get to 1:1 without going over...hence third gear...ive taken a look at third and fourth in my car, third seems to be pretty close at low rpms and fourth is closer at high rpms...so i would go with third personally...i know in my accord it was 4th dead on...and in the rsx it was 4th or 5th, cant remember...
Originally Posted by Dman
the way ive always known it, you dyno as close as you can get to 1:1 without going over...hence third gear...ive taken a look at third and fourth in my car, third seems to be pretty close at low rpms and fourth is closer at high rpms...so i would go with third personally...i know in my accord it was 4th dead on...and in the rsx it was 4th or 5th, cant remember...
You just contradicted yourself. 4th is closer to 1:1 then 3rd is so why dyno in 3rd?
Originally Posted by n4ggs
4th is a tick lower than 1:1 closer than 3rd
ok found it...if you look here...
http://www.chevrolet.com/cobalt/specifications/
then click transmission... youll see that 3rd is 1.35 and 4th is .98...
now with transmissions, the numbers decrease through gears...therefore you would want to stay (in essence of number sake) above 1:1...but this is called "over" by most.
not that gear really matters anyway...a dyno measures how the car overcomes the load given by the dyno. the difference in gears would only mean a hp or two difference either way and that is about the same difference you would get from pull to pull...
Originally Posted by Dman
depends on whos numbers for the tranny you are reading...ive always seen 4th gear being over though...
ok found it...if you look here...
http://www.chevrolet.com/cobalt/specifications/
then click transmission... youll see that 3rd is 1.35 and 4th is .98
ok found it...if you look here...
http://www.chevrolet.com/cobalt/specifications/
then click transmission... youll see that 3rd is 1.35 and 4th is .98
More accurate ratios for the FGP Model F35 used in the Cobalt SS/SC and ION Redline can be found here
http://www.gmcanada.com/english/vehi...coba_opti.html
or here
http://media.gm.com/us/powertrain/en...g%20trans.html
So 3rd is 1.18 and 4th .89 so 4th is STILL closer to 1:1 but not by the margin the Chevy web-site states
HTH
Regards
WopOnTour
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