So i'm looking into switching to E-85. Now without any pulley downs or all my cooling mods. Would a get some gains out of it?

I would like to switch and then start building it up with E-85

 

I just bought a 2.8 and 80s, about to get E85 tuned here in about a week or so. Should put me around 290whp, hoping for 300. I highly recommend building for it, and THEN switching to e85, otherwise I believe you would have to keep getting tuned for it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please.

 

What cooling mods do u need? also do i NEED a full exhaust?

 

I believe e85 acts as a cooling agent, but I have a cxracing HE in series with the stock HE, and going with a zzp dual pass w/ option B just to be safe. I have full 3" exhaust, which is recommended for anything 300hp or higher, but I think 2.5" would be ok.

 

i don't have a header or dp yet. I do however have a 3' catback im getting. i got a wideband for tuning. Opt b kit no Dual pass yet ill get that soon. I got a H/E. 3'intake. I'm trying to see what i can make on E-85 stock. maybe 250 or so. Than ill pulley it and header/dp and than dual pass to finish it off. Just wondering will it be safe to start with?

 

You will need injectors and you might as well go with 80's so you only have to buy one set.

 

yeah i know i need injectors + tune to run it. But safely for the amount of extra power i get?

Meaning i don't need a butt ton of Supporting mods I.E. header/dp/Dualpass cause right there thats an Extra 600+$ which i want to wait on.

im looking to spend 150-200 for injectors 250 for tune i alrdy got the pulley size and hub. everything else is golden

 

Kind of off topic, but not:

You don't need option b.. It has nothing to do with keeping the coolant in the system any cooler. It helps bleed air and even that is negligible, in my opinion.

I wouldn't even bother with it. Save your money.

 

Actually it can be ran like an extra Coolant reservoir just like the stock one to circulate the hot coolant to keep it constantly cool but that's just what i've seen, xNigelX got this done

 

"Option B" is an extra resivor to hold coolant so it basically self bleeds, and takes more coolant as needed, nothing more. What you're talking about is more of the "Stu-Mod" as some call it. Even then it is a waste in my opinion. ZZP already put their $0.02 on this subject. It's your car after all but I wouldn't bother.

 

E-85 is not magic juice like nitrous. It is all in the tune so make sure you have a well know lsj tuner. For example look at all the people who couldnt break 300 whp on a tvs.

But with the right tune you will whoop on a lot of modded balts.

No you dont need those supporting mods cause you will still run ok. Not being a smart ass but they are called supporting mods cause they help maximize the potential and safety of other mods. Hell I ran a 2.8 on stock cooling for a while but I wouldnt recommend it.


The mods would help but I doubt your butt dyno would notice. I see in ur sig you are getting a catback. In my personal opinion I would go with a header/dp combo into the stock catback but I am kinda biased on that opinion.

I ran a local member last week and pooped all over him. We have similiar mods but he has stock header back plus I am known to beat the **** out of my car when racing so maybe I had the driver mod too. Point being the other guy said that his stock header/dp was hurting him.

 

no major needs on cooling mods as e-85s EGTS are lower than gas, i have 80s and 2.7 pully= great setup for e-85

 

is what hes refering to. its far from a waste as it adds nearly 3/4 of a gal of fluid to the system not to mention it can be used as an icebox for drag racing to keep those lovely IATs down

 

Oh, I know what he was referring to. ZZP went against the whole "having an extra resivor to run in-line" theory. It's not as good a you think. Stu was (I believe) the first to do this anyhow. You'd have to talk to them go get their theory behind it, but they would have no reason to lie.

 

only thing i could see is more fluid = more strain on the pump?

 

It allows for better coolant expansion, and keeps the fluid from heat soaking as quickly. The mod is worth the relatively inexpensive cost.

 

I'm not sure! I'm not saying you're wrong by any means (Because I wanted one) but they were against it in some thread I read. I'll have to ask them as I'm curious. The "option b" is pointless though because all it does is hold extra coolant to fill when the air comes out as it self bleeds.

@ls1: Either way you look at it, under the hood is hot. You're relocating maybe 8" away. It's negligible.

 

It's not the relocation that makes a benefit, it's the additional fluid. The ocean takes longer to heat up than a lake. Same principle essentially.

 

Very true but to my [limited] knowledge on it, it doesn't flow in-line does it? It essentially just sits there and takes more in as air gets bled out via the stock h/e bleeder. It's not a constant flowing system.

 

No, it's not a constant flowing system, nor does it need to be.

Yes, it helps bleed the system, but that's not all. I'm not going to get into fluid dynamics and convection and all that ****, but it works. GM Engineers are bright guys. The guys that race theirs use it, GM thought it beneficial enough to offer it in a kit. It works. Period.

p.s. mine is not hooked into the stock h/e bleeder, but my aftermarket front mount. It does more than you think. I can see the fluid "boiling" when the pump is on. There is fluid transfer and movement constantly.

 

I understand there are fluid dynamics. Do I claim to understand them? Hell no. It is common sense, though. I know you can see the fluid boiling because you replaced the stock filler where it would normally boil. (No secret there)

You are not introducing "cooler" coolant into the system. There is fluid transfer, yes. When the system bleeds air out, it takes in as needed. That doesn't exactly quality as "constant movement" because it is like a normal reservoir - Once it is empty, do you, or do you not, have to fill it back up? (Yes, you fill it up unless you like staring at an empty reservoir.) The warm coolant does not flow into the reservoir in exchange for colder coolant.

Seeing as how 1 line goes to your H/E, (don't know why you mentioned it was the FMHE, it really doesn't matter what bleeder it sits on because it is parallel in the same system), and line number 2 goes into a "T" fitting to introduce the coolant needed after the air is bled out. There is no return line to the reservoir.. I don't see how you can even justify that as "fluid transfer and constant movement".

It is completely a waste as opposed to what Nigel posted earlier. That is a true, constant flowing system, which is what you want to get IAT drops. Option B is caveman ****, bro. It's useless.

 

could i run E-85 in the winter and not have any issues of starting or dieing. can E-85 start at -10F temps?

 

Lol, you're not getting what i'm saying. Once the system is bled, it's bled. If you don't open it up, or introduce extra air, it stays bled.

It doesn't circulate like a flow through system, but as the coolant heats up, it expands and flows into the tank. The cooler fluid in the tank goes down into the system to replace it. Thermal dynamics.

It just takes the fluid longer to heat up than with the stock filler neck. It's a proven system. I've been around the block when it comes to SC'd LSJ's. This is the system i would, and do use.

 

E85 FTW, these cars take very well to timing. Take advantage of it.