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yah exactly, i dont want to dig out my welder so i'm going to try and find a piece of plastic i can cut up and just put a screw or couple bolts to how it on
If you want it to bleed air, you need to connect the overflow line you have plugged to the top of the heat exchanger and put a restrictor in so the fluid doesn't flow but air bubbles will pass through.
I'd also recommend trying to drop the level of that line so it cannot become an air pocket and airlock the line.
it seems to be working as is, because it spit some out of the overflow when i got it hot, i'll keep an eye on it. i dont want to drill into either of the h/e
it seems to be working as is, because it spit some out of the overflow when i got it hot, i'll keep an eye on it. i dont want to drill into either of the h/e
No need to drill the stock h/e, there is a plug you remove. I think it's 1/8" NPT passenger side top.
what type of restriction needs to be put in the line? i forgot that step and just hooked a hose up there, it flows into the bottle while its running but i'm assuming more just flows into the system via the big hose
i dont see anything like that with the zzp option b kit.
it should work how i have it.
it seems to be better the coolant is cool to the touch and the iat2 reading idling fully warmed up is only 99f with 62f outside
Their kit does include the 0.040" restrictor
It's also on page 8 of the GM install instructions on ZZP's site, they just have a black arrow pointing and saying install 0.040" restrictor. That being open allows for cooled fluid to skip the intake manifold, and reduces the total flow through the manifold. You can get something that will jam into the line and drill a ~0.040" hole in it or try restricting the line with a crimp.
i got a new phone since and forgot to save or note my torque settings and pids.
i think maybe torque has changed a little bit? ait2 used to be:
222006
C
A-40
it shows a little odd readings, it looks like its trying to convert it to F automatically???, its only ~50f out and its showing like 90-100 cruising which is way higher than it was before.
if i do:
222006
F
A
it shows ~20-25 over ait1 or about 65-70f which is what it was last time i checked.
kinda weird
i did notice that torque has the option now to use F instead of C. maybe that is why
The grease fitting might be restricting too much. Go to the parts store and get a vaccum tee like this and cut one tip off and stick it in the line. its basically what zzp gives you in the kit. the coolant still flows pretty good but its a small enough hole to air bleed. As far as temps, is the cooling system still stock?
In the quest for more cooling, I think you can squeeze a bit better temps out of it. I have almost the same setup you have, no dual pass but have the phenolic intake spacer.
At first my temps were high. I sat down and thought out the way the cooling system works.
The option b replaces the stock fill neck. Most people said to do that, but that comes out of the manifold and is on the pressure side of the pump. So it doesn't pull much fluid from the tank. The pump sucks from the heat exchanger and pushes into the manifold. I didn't like that, the pump gets hot bolted to the engine. I re-ran the hoses, the pump inlet pulls coolant out of the cores and bottle, pushes hot pump and intake fluid into the stock H/E then front mount H/E and then goes straight into the intake with cooler fluid from the front mount h/e. My iats are great now, it stays around a 8-12 degree difference. The spacer really helped though.
I drilled out the fitting to allow more flow lol it's probably too big now... I'm leaving it tho doesn't seem to make a difference in the temps either way