This is a Short Block build thread. This is just some ideas I've had lately through research. I found this engine that was built by GM for drag racing....

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Drag-...g-Engine-Specs
Engine Type: Inline 4-cylinder
Displacement: 2.16 Liters
Bore x Stroke: 89mm x 89 mm (destroked for high RPM operation)
Valves/cylinder: 4
Balance Shafts: Removed for high RPM operation
Block: Aluminum (lost foam cast) with steel cylinder liners
Head: Aluminum (sand cast) with custom race porting
Crankshaft: 3.505” Billet Steel
Rods: Manley I-beam, 300M material
Pistons: JE aluminum with 22mm PPP Pins
Compression: 10.8:1
Camshafts: Comp Cams billet custom ground, with roller finger followers
Induction: Borg Warner S400 Turbocharger w/ air to water intercooler
Ignition: Capacitive discharge by MSD
Fuel Delivery: 3 injectors per cylinder with FAST XFI controller
Fuel: Methanol
Lubrication: Dry sump
Exhaust: 4 into 1, custom bent
Horsepower: 1450hp @ 9200rpm
Torque: 940 lb-ft @ 7700rpm


Now, duplicating the 89mm bore x 89mm stroke is a hard one to do because of cost and fabrication. BUT, what about a 2.4 block destroked with a 2.2 crank? 88mm bore x 94.6mm stroke. It would come out to somewhere in the 2.3ltr neighborhood and require custom rods and pistons but it would still be way cheaper than trying to find a 89mm crank. I'm pretty confident that it could still rev to as high as 8500rpm also, which is really higher than I ever plan on revving. I think it would provide a bit better low end tq than the drag build by GM and of course, WAY more low end tq than my 2.0. With a properly built head to take full advantage of it, I'm sure it could be a recipe for serious power once I ever decided to push the limits.

Opinions....?

 

custom=depressingly expensive

Yeah...wouldn't you need to replace the head as well? Can you run the 2.0 head on the 2.4 block?

 

I'm planning on doing a 2.2 bottom end with a LSJ head for almost the same reason, better low end and it'll be safe to rev high also...

Custom would be very very expensive, i'd keep it to lsj bottom end, l61 bottom end or le5 bottom. with LSJ head just for cost and benefits

 

your thinking all the time, gotta admire that kind of spirit

 

true, custom rods and pistons don't cost quite as much as you think they do though. It's that custom crank that would be a bitch, that's why I said just a factory 2.2 crank in a 2.4 block. Destroked for high rpm fun, but still more low end than my 2.0.

Thing is, if I do any other bottom end, be it 2.2 or 2.4, I'm going to have to get forged rods and pistons anyway, so why not go ahead and pay a few more hundred bucks and do the setup I'm talking about?

This isn't something that I plan to do soon, but it's just stuff that I have been pondering over lately.

 

http://www.stcf.net/viggen/gmtuneren...rque_specs.pdf

 

Why thank ya! I really do think of all kinds of **** all the time. My wife hates it, lol. I'll just randomly through stuff out there and tell her, and she's like, "I really don't care." So the next thing I do is call area47 or qwikredline or some other friends that don't even drive cobalts but are awesome gear heads and get their opinions. I really do it out of the blue all the time.

 

If you're going for big power then get billet not forged...just a suggestion.

 

see, they used the 89mm stroke crank, gm part # 88958620, it's $3614.00. I think I'll stick with my idea, it sounds cheaper AND more streetable.

true true, good idea.

 

is there any company that makes conn. rods for the lsj outright? I can't find a company on the web that calls out our engine specifically.

 

i dont really see big gains of building an 88 x 94.6 motor over a standard 2.2l. for the small gains it may yeild the cost is going to be a lot more. you can get away with off the shelf 2.2l rods and custom pistons. however if your going to that much work you could build a 2.4l and have a torque monster. however if you do plan to rev the motor high you may be better with a 2.0l, as it has a near perfect connecting rod ratio. the gm racing 2.16l listed above has a near perfect rod ratio aswell, part of the reason they went 89x89, and they use 5.880" long rods.

 

true, it's just an idea. I think the 2.2 crank in a 2.4 block could rev higher than just a 2.2 though. The block is also a tad higher.

Just thinking off the top of my head.

 

what do you mean the block is higher??? taller deck height???

all you really gain from a 2.2/2.4 hybrid is a touch more displacment. as to weather itll rev better, tough call. keep in mind it is going to be a slightly heavier piston with a larger bore. all i know is the 2.2l i built in my friends sunbird has to problem going to 7500rpm with stock cams (long story on why it has stock cams on a fully built motor). i know with some turbo cams itll easily go 8000-8500.

 

does anyone know the deck heights on the ecotecs?

i can mesure mine in a couple of days but are the ecotecs all the same?

 

Sounds expensive.

And time consuming.

 

can the tranny hold that much?
what tranny did they use?

 

^^ kind of off topic. But assuming this is their pro FWD ecotec, then it would be a modified 4T65HD converted to a 3sp. I dont think ralliartist is planning on building the same 1400HP block that GM used tho, so its kind of a pointless direction to take the conversation. Honestly, if you're looking for displacement but still want the ability to rev high, i'd stick with a 2.2 block/internals (forged or billet of course). You would need either neutral balance shafts or a balance shaft delete kit to go along with a fully built head though. What are your power goals and are you planning on reaching them on a M62?

 

square or over square is good. your idea for a long stroke engine, well the piston speed would be deadly and anything over 7200 will kill your motor. My guess is stick with the 2.0 and btw its got a great crank...tc pistons are better in fact the LNF is the best base of all...

 

running the 2.0 head on a 2.4 block HAS been done...