GM stage 2
GM stage 2
been eying up a simple gm stage 2 kit, been putting alot of thought into the car latley and just want to keep it simple i should say. well my question is, im running injen CAI, gm cat back exhaust, and will be getting a gm manafold, despite what some may say, as said before just keeping it simple. my question is, once i get the stage 2 and manfold installed, do i need to do any cooling mods suck as heat exchanger? i seen on zzp's wbsite they have their own and gm has their own. just wondering if id need that or not. later on next year i am looking to tune my car my self using the hp tuner and doing more upgrades, but for now im just gonna do as i stated above. thanks guys.
Are you talking about putting together a GM ST2 or buying it from a dealer?
I have -
Injen CAI
ZZP Downpipe with CAT
Badmab Header
42# injectors
2.9" Pulley
Trifecta tune (had to get this as soon as I put in my injectors and pulley)
I have -
Injen CAI
ZZP Downpipe with CAT
Badmab Header
42# injectors
2.9" Pulley
Trifecta tune (had to get this as soon as I put in my injectors and pulley)
for now with just the gm stage 2 kit you won't need any cooling mods although they are always advised. Anyways, I have the GM stage 2 Injectors for sale for $80 if you are interested!
Joined: 05-18-11
Posts: 39,564
Likes: 87
From: West Chicago, IL
yea a heat exhanger is a must once you're making the car make more boost, in order to keep your intake air temperatures lower, it also increases the life of your engine and s/c.
think of it this way. it doesn't matter how much boost ur making if your drawing in hot air. the object is to force in as much cool, dense air as possible. most important if you do multiple pulls, like flying back and forth down a road or racing around or something
think of it this way. it doesn't matter how much boost ur making if your drawing in hot air. the object is to force in as much cool, dense air as possible. most important if you do multiple pulls, like flying back and forth down a road or racing around or something
on a gm stg2 (or most set ups that people run)a dual pass endplate with a phenolic manifold spacer with the stock h.e. would be more then sufficiant if you want to add a h.e. i would replace the stocker with a griffin
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,079
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
yea a heat exhanger is a must once you're making the car make more boost, in order to keep your intake air temperatures lower, it also increases the life of your engine and s/c.
think of it this way. it doesn't matter how much boost ur making if your drawing in hot air. the object is to force in as much cool, dense air as possible. most important if you do multiple pulls, like flying back and forth down a road or racing around or something
think of it this way. it doesn't matter how much boost ur making if your drawing in hot air. the object is to force in as much cool, dense air as possible. most important if you do multiple pulls, like flying back and forth down a road or racing around or something
A heat exchanger does not cool/increase the life of the supercharger. To cool the internal blower temps you would need to use a water injection system, or porting of some sort.
GMS2 is fine to run on the stock cooling system. Although, what mrbelvedere suggested is not a bad idea to try.
Last edited by Staged07SS; Oct 12, 2011 at 01:41 PM.
ok so this is what i need? Cobalt & Ion ---> ZZ Performance
also it asks if i want to add the option B kit, i know it comes with a plastic container and some tubing and line, but im not sure if i would need that also. sorry guys im new to the whole building a car type thing lol, iv built plenty of dirtbike/atv motors, but nothing as in depth as this.
also it asks if i want to add the option B kit, i know it comes with a plastic container and some tubing and line, but im not sure if i would need that also. sorry guys im new to the whole building a car type thing lol, iv built plenty of dirtbike/atv motors, but nothing as in depth as this.
Option B is preferable but not absolutely necessary.
Here is an expert opinion:
Here is an expert opinion:
Option B is the most important part of the equation to make sure you get the air out of the aftercooler system. That means a restricted line from the top of the (oem) heat exchanger. The stock T bottle is hopelessly ineffective on the LSJ aftercooler system.
The next is dual pass. Thats a little more involved, and requires great care re and re the end plate, swapping the laminova cores end for end, and replumbing the hoses.
My preference is to use the Saturn coolant bottle with decent brackets; you can buy the dual pass end plate where ever you wish. I use OTTP parts fyi....CED sell the GM one, OTTP is a clone, as I am sure ZZP is, I am not sure if GM sell the coolant bottle mounting brackets Tom at CED can tell you if they do...I am not sure if any of these folks sell the extra hose you need, and the "T"'s and "Y"'s are important...P.S GM have good "how to" instructions I think they are on this site....
The next is dual pass. Thats a little more involved, and requires great care re and re the end plate, swapping the laminova cores end for end, and replumbing the hoses.
My preference is to use the Saturn coolant bottle with decent brackets; you can buy the dual pass end plate where ever you wish. I use OTTP parts fyi....CED sell the GM one, OTTP is a clone, as I am sure ZZP is, I am not sure if GM sell the coolant bottle mounting brackets Tom at CED can tell you if they do...I am not sure if any of these folks sell the extra hose you need, and the "T"'s and "Y"'s are important...P.S GM have good "how to" instructions I think they are on this site....
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