head gasket replacement
head gasket replacement
long story short, ive been losing coolant for a while now and have not found any leaks. i believe its getting down into the cylinders, because my spark plugs are white on the tips. i know im not running lean, because my trims are in check, and afr looks good. well good enough for closed loop i guess lol
but i plan to run arp studs. this may be covered some where, but are the 10 main studs that come in the kit the only ones that need to be replaced? or do other bolts need replacing? and is there anything else i should look at replacing. i am probably gonna end up retimming it. any pointers for that too? do any of the build books cover it?
this is gonna be my first time tearing into a motor, but i may have some help from some experienced family members.
but i plan to run arp studs. this may be covered some where, but are the 10 main studs that come in the kit the only ones that need to be replaced? or do other bolts need replacing? and is there anything else i should look at replacing. i am probably gonna end up retimming it. any pointers for that too? do any of the build books cover it?
this is gonna be my first time tearing into a motor, but i may have some help from some experienced family members.
Not sure about whether the other head bolts need changed or not, but mine didn't get changed and they are torqued a lot lower than the actual head studs. Honestly, didn't even cross my mind about changing them. Cam gear bolts are torque to yield also so they should be replaced. As for timing it, there is a how to on another forum I believe. If you search "chevy cobalt timing" on google you should be able to find it. It can be done with one person but extra sets of hands are helpful when trying to get all the marks lined up.
thanks, i found the timing how to on the other forum, but
are the camshaft bolts needed these,
Ecotec Cam Gear Bolt 90537451
or these
Ecotec Cam Gear Bolt 11588844
are the camshaft bolts needed these,
Ecotec Cam Gear Bolt 90537451
or these
Ecotec Cam Gear Bolt 11588844
Last edited by southal cobalt; Jul 18, 2012 at 11:46 PM.
This is what happen to you when you didn't put in cooling mods on your 2.8 pulley. Should had listen to some of us trying to tell you to put cooling mods to save your engine and your cost of money to spend on. Also for your time.
Cooling mods have nothing to do with the head gasket.
Yes, He didn't put cooling mods in it and he didn't REPLACE his Intercooling Pump. He was like "OH WELL" and kept tuning his car. He wanted to see what will happen to his car. That's what happen to his car. He kept deleting his threads of what he said. Cause he don't want anybody know what he has done to his car.....
for as long as i have owned this car, ive had to put coolant in it at least every 2 monthes. that dates back to 07 that when i got the car.
lately its gotten to be where i have to every month.
once i got a replacement ic pump, i dropped pulleys. i have a working cooling system. just no extra mods.
cars dont become lemons when they have 130 k miles on them
and i deleted my posts in your thread after i noticed that you quite obviously knew everything there is to know about the lsj yelcal. so why should i subject you to my idiocies? the post that really showed me your true genius was when you stated that your car has become so much faster with cooling mods. at that point, i knew i was in over my head
thanks for your help blue balt
lately its gotten to be where i have to every month.
once i got a replacement ic pump, i dropped pulleys. i have a working cooling system. just no extra mods.
cars dont become lemons when they have 130 k miles on them
and i deleted my posts in your thread after i noticed that you quite obviously knew everything there is to know about the lsj yelcal. so why should i subject you to my idiocies? the post that really showed me your true genius was when you stated that your car has become so much faster with cooling mods. at that point, i knew i was in over my head
thanks for your help blue balt
Last edited by southal cobalt; Jul 21, 2012 at 02:14 PM.
Yelcal what about the fact that cooling mods don't affect the head gasket don't you understand? Cooling mods make recovery times faster and make it easier to make power. Without them your IAT2's will be higher but that would cause a catastrophic failure of something due to knock. The knock could either crack a piston or destroy the head gasket meaning it would lose every ounce of coolant not just be leaking a little bit. I agree that he should run cooling mods but that's NOT the problem here. You're trying to make it sound like you are right and he is wrong when in fact you are doing very well at making yourself look like a jackass.
i just dont understand the purpose of your posts then. i guess your thought processes and mine are miles apart.
thanks again though blue balt. im glad someone on here is still willing to help
thanks again though blue balt. im glad someone on here is still willing to help
i havent been trying to be a douche, but it made sense for me not to pull the intake manifold and install any cooling mods, i.e. dual pass, opt b and phenolic spacer, as id just have to pull it again later when i decide to replace the head gasket. and truthfully i havent had the time, but i do plan on doing it in the near future.
it wasnt my plan to leave the 2.8 on when i installed it. i just wanted to try it out, but with no knock and a reasonable amount of timing, i was persuaded into keeping it on. the mid range torque gained on the butt dyno made the drop much more worthwhile also.
and since i can tune myself, i can retard the timing as far back as i want to keep it running knock-less. as far as power, i do not dispute that by the end of third gear my power is cut back due to timing retard and the increased temps will cause increased cyl. pressure by pv=nrt (lol chemistry and physics), but i have had no issues as of yet. and i will admit if i do
it wasnt my plan to leave the 2.8 on when i installed it. i just wanted to try it out, but with no knock and a reasonable amount of timing, i was persuaded into keeping it on. the mid range torque gained on the butt dyno made the drop much more worthwhile also.
and since i can tune myself, i can retard the timing as far back as i want to keep it running knock-less. as far as power, i do not dispute that by the end of third gear my power is cut back due to timing retard and the increased temps will cause increased cyl. pressure by pv=nrt (lol chemistry and physics), but i have had no issues as of yet. and i will admit if i do
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