Heat exchanger sprayer
#27
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I will be getting everything together to test this tommorrow, I am going to document everything and provide a concrete result for everyone to use as a reference if this comes up in the future. If anyone is interested in following my progress and actual testing, please check out SGM Tuning Concepts | Facebook As I will be updating that instantly with install pics, my results..etc And like us while your there!
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I know I'm late to the party but I agree with everyone, this will make no difference at all. It works on air to air setups because it is cooling down the air directly in the intercooler. And as another option in that sense, I've heard of people having a couple tanks of co2 that can spray the intercooler to cool boost down which in theory would work well because compressed co2 is so cold. This system on an air to water intercooler system may make a slight difference, but it still won't be as much as on an air to air system. Now I guess you could always spray co2 on the intake manifold directly but I think that could lead to problems because of such a drastic change in temperature. The intake manifold is going to be close to the same temperature as the motor itself and the co2 is a lot cooler than ambient temperature so such a quick change could cause a crack
#32
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Result's are in! go to SGM Tuning Concepts | Facebook for a video clip of how I mach'ed up the sprayer's. The test car is a 2006 SS/SC, car has a SGM ported M62/Ported LS4 TB with Rebel's plate, 3.0" ZZP pulley, 42lb injectors, CXR heat exchanger pump, CXR H/E, Injen CAI with AEM dryflow filter, no factory H/E. LNF 2.5" Catback, I left the meth off for this test. The outside temp was 91*. The first pull was without the HE spray, IAT1 was 101, IAT2 was 113, I started from 3500 and pulled to 6500 through second and third gear. Then drove for 10 seconds to allow the IAT2's to keep raising and get a collected Average. Then i stopped the log. The IAT2's went up to 134*! so that Is a over all climb of 21*. The ECT also went from 178 to 192 during that pull. a 14* raise. I drove the car around and brought the IAT2 back down to 113, IAT1 around 101. And made the pull with the sprayer's on. The final IAT2 was 123*! Thats 11* lower IAT2's! also ECT was 189 at the end of the pull, so it cooled the car down 3*. I am thinking of fabricating a nice kit and offer it for somewhere sub 50$. Very pleased with the results.
#33
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where the hell do you live where the iat 1s are starting at 101?!
would probably have better results if a dual pass setup was added, along with either a griffen h/e or a front mount set up in line with a factory h/e
would probably have better results if a dual pass setup was added, along with either a griffen h/e or a front mount set up in line with a factory h/e
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Well, 90* being ambient(according to what the car says, could be less/more). 11* heatsoak is about right, i see much more than that when I tune LSx cars. But I live in southern PA lol, i agree more cooling mods would yield a better result, But I did this test to try and pioneer the theory, everyone was so quick to shoot it down when it did in fact make a noticeable decrease in IAT2's. 20$ for 10* less of IAT2 on a basic cooled set up. Well worth it to me, and YelCal why wouldnt you use both? Meth and HE spray.
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Lol, Not sure about your track, but they barely look over the car's here, you could pass it through VERY easily. So as a general census, do you guys feel there would be interested in a kit that would be essentially a "Bolt on?"
#40
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Your 11* difference is negligable though.
Especially on a car running a stage 2 pulley, with a Oem intercooler system more than capable of supporting 20 psi, let alone 13-15 psi.
Your less than 1% over all HP gain doesn't warrant the amount of work you put into installing this.
The most effective proven method of intercooling on a lsj is a chemical intercooler, using water methanol and or nitrous.
Iat2 in the 130s is hardly heat soak, especially if thats all you see at the end of a 3rd gear pull at near 100* ambient temperature.
Not knocking your idea and test. Instead offering you a solid piece of advice; you may not take it at first, but in time the real answers will come together, and you'll come right back this very message only to get a good laugh.
Especially on a car running a stage 2 pulley, with a Oem intercooler system more than capable of supporting 20 psi, let alone 13-15 psi.
Your less than 1% over all HP gain doesn't warrant the amount of work you put into installing this.
The most effective proven method of intercooling on a lsj is a chemical intercooler, using water methanol and or nitrous.
Iat2 in the 130s is hardly heat soak, especially if thats all you see at the end of a 3rd gear pull at near 100* ambient temperature.
Not knocking your idea and test. Instead offering you a solid piece of advice; you may not take it at first, but in time the real answers will come together, and you'll come right back this very message only to get a good laugh.
Last edited by 100% METH; 07-05-2012 at 08:18 PM.
#41
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Your 11* difference is negligable though.
Especially on a car running a stage 2 pulley, with a Oem intercooler system more than capable of supporting 20 psi, let alone 13-15 psi.
Your less than 1% over all HP gain doesn't warrant the amount of work you put into installing this.
The most effective proven method of intercooling on a lsj is a chemical intercooler, using water methanol and or nitrous.
Iat2 in the 130s is hardly heat soak, especially if thats all you see at the end of a 3rd gear pull at near 100* ambient temperature.
Not knocking your idea and test. Instead offering you a solid piece of advice; you may not take it at first, but in time the real answers will come together, and you'll come right back this very message only to get a good laugh.
Especially on a car running a stage 2 pulley, with a Oem intercooler system more than capable of supporting 20 psi, let alone 13-15 psi.
Your less than 1% over all HP gain doesn't warrant the amount of work you put into installing this.
The most effective proven method of intercooling on a lsj is a chemical intercooler, using water methanol and or nitrous.
Iat2 in the 130s is hardly heat soak, especially if thats all you see at the end of a 3rd gear pull at near 100* ambient temperature.
Not knocking your idea and test. Instead offering you a solid piece of advice; you may not take it at first, but in time the real answers will come together, and you'll come right back this very message only to get a good laugh.
#42
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The test video that you may have seen on our FB page was simply a very Rough mach up to test the theory, we are looking into a higher pressure nozzle to create more of a mist. And when going down the track they will not see that.
#43
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I also agree that the gains are much less then internal Meth injection, however it is at 1/8th the cost and a nice "add on" for a cooling set up IMO. That 11* drop in IAT could be "negligible" to some, but it could also be the difference between KR or not on a run. While that statement may be a stretch, it is a possibility.
#44
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Right but simply taking away .5 of a degree at that psi will be within 0-1hp, which is the most in the best condiions a 11* drop will benefit.
0-1hp doesn't warrant any cost. The cost of the sprayer plus the liquid needed, while very cheap compared to water injection, highly out weighs its sub 1% benefit. Where as water injection has a much larger percentage gain over all in cooling, not just of the air intake temps, but the cylinders and egts. While providing a large safety margin when jetted correctly and when needed the ability to create race gas or e85 timing advance tables while providing all the benefits listed.
0-1hp doesn't warrant any cost. The cost of the sprayer plus the liquid needed, while very cheap compared to water injection, highly out weighs its sub 1% benefit. Where as water injection has a much larger percentage gain over all in cooling, not just of the air intake temps, but the cylinders and egts. While providing a large safety margin when jetted correctly and when needed the ability to create race gas or e85 timing advance tables while providing all the benefits listed.
Last edited by 100% METH; 07-05-2012 at 10:03 PM.
#45
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Right but simply taking away .5 of a degree at that psi will be within 0-1hp, which is the most in the best condiions a 11* drop will benefit.
0-1hp doesn't warrant any cost. The cost of the sprayer plus the liquid needed, while very cheap compared to water injection, highly out weighs its sub 1% benefit. Where as water injection has a much larger percentage gain over all in cooling, not just of the air intake temps, but the cylinders and egts. While providing a large safety margin when jetted correctly and the when needed the ability to mimick race gas or e85 timing advance tables while providing all the benefits listed.
0-1hp doesn't warrant any cost. The cost of the sprayer plus the liquid needed, while very cheap compared to water injection, highly out weighs its sub 1% benefit. Where as water injection has a much larger percentage gain over all in cooling, not just of the air intake temps, but the cylinders and egts. While providing a large safety margin when jetted correctly and the when needed the ability to mimick race gas or e85 timing advance tables while providing all the benefits listed.
#47
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Not a theory; just a bit of insight from 5 years with this platform and extensive amounts of time on the dyno.
If a 11* drop were to allow a .5* more advance from a temperature of 130s to 110-120. The difference is sub 0-1 hp.
Lets say you didn't have the sprayer, and were seeing 130s. According to this scenario, you cannot pinch out that .5* of advance, losing 0-1hp from your over all gain, without spending the money on a sprayer and liquid.
In the end the difference is a wash, since sub 1% can be a variety of variables, not just the ones mentioned.
Tuning that close to the edge of knock regardless is completely not worth it, considering the gain.
I don't want to tell you it's a bad idea, it just been done through out the years on our cars with poor results.
Invest your time in your Devils own kit, and educate your customers on your findings. This is one of the best solutions for safety & power; And for a measely $200-500... it's one hell of an insurance policy for your engine.
If a 11* drop were to allow a .5* more advance from a temperature of 130s to 110-120. The difference is sub 0-1 hp.
Lets say you didn't have the sprayer, and were seeing 130s. According to this scenario, you cannot pinch out that .5* of advance, losing 0-1hp from your over all gain, without spending the money on a sprayer and liquid.
In the end the difference is a wash, since sub 1% can be a variety of variables, not just the ones mentioned.
Tuning that close to the edge of knock regardless is completely not worth it, considering the gain.
I don't want to tell you it's a bad idea, it just been done through out the years on our cars with poor results.
Invest your time in your Devils own kit, and educate your customers on your findings. This is one of the best solutions for safety & power; And for a measely $200-500... it's one hell of an insurance policy for your engine.
Last edited by 100% METH; 07-05-2012 at 10:32 PM.
#48
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Not a theory; just a bit of insight from 5 years with this platform and extensive amounts of time on the dyno.
If a 11* drop were to allow a .5* more advance from a temperature of 130s to 110-120. The difference is sub 0-1 hp.
Lets say you didn't have the sprayer, and were seeing 130s. According to this scenario, you cannot pinch out that .5* of advance, losing 0-1hp from your over all gain, without spending the money on a sprayer and liquid.
In the end the difference is a wash, since sub 1% can be a variety of variables, not just the ones mentioned.
Tuning that close to the edge of knock regardless is completely not worth it, considering the gain.
I don't want to tell you it's a bad idea, it just been done through out the years on our cars with poor results.
Invest your time in your Devils own kit, and educate your customers on your findings. This is one of the best solutions for safety & power; And for a measely $200-500... it's one hell of an insurance policy for your engine.
If a 11* drop were to allow a .5* more advance from a temperature of 130s to 110-120. The difference is sub 0-1 hp.
Lets say you didn't have the sprayer, and were seeing 130s. According to this scenario, you cannot pinch out that .5* of advance, losing 0-1hp from your over all gain, without spending the money on a sprayer and liquid.
In the end the difference is a wash, since sub 1% can be a variety of variables, not just the ones mentioned.
Tuning that close to the edge of knock regardless is completely not worth it, considering the gain.
I don't want to tell you it's a bad idea, it just been done through out the years on our cars with poor results.
Invest your time in your Devils own kit, and educate your customers on your findings. This is one of the best solutions for safety & power; And for a measely $200-500... it's one hell of an insurance policy for your engine.
#50
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I will likely make another thread in the LNF section, but I will keep this thread updated on my findings. I was fortunate enough to have just about everything i needed to test this laying around the shop. So it's really just time I have spent.
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