Help!!!! Removing the head
hey good luck with that build...well unbuild too lol and dont break your head yet. it should be as fun if not more to put it together. p.s. i dont know if you know this but do not put the head right side up on any surface when you get it out. and if your headgasket blew make sure youi get a machine shop to take a look and make sure you dont have to get it milled.
have fun....and post those pics
have fun....and post those pics
I called it quits, I need sleep I cant figure out howto get the dam intake manifold off, I think im missing a bolt on the under side or something, I removed all 5 or 6 that are visible up top if anyone knows what im missing please let me know. I am dissapoined in myself for not getting it off tonight but im just to dam tired, and the pics will have to wait. Im waiting on a reply from the other guy that just went through this hell to.
This is pretty fun but also stressful
If you have to do this make sure you have a thing its like a socket but it doesnt move and a 19mm wrench and 15/16th wrench 18mm socket 10,12,13,14,15mm sockets aswell and alot of patience
This is pretty fun but also stressful
If you have to do this make sure you have a thing its like a socket but it doesnt move and a 19mm wrench and 15/16th wrench 18mm socket 10,12,13,14,15mm sockets aswell and alot of patience
good luck bro!!! by the way top dead center is the point at which the piston reaches the top of its travel on the compression stroke of the number 1 cylinder (basically when you have the head off make sure the number one piston is at the top of the cylinder). the other thing you could do is this...before you turn the cams at all take nail polish or touchup paint and paint a line across the bottom end of the cams making sure to go past where the end of the cams are so you have a referance point left on the head when you are putting the cams back in. make sure you mark which is the intake cam and which is the exhaust cam. now that you have marked the position of the cams in the exact position the motor is in now it should be pretty much right on when you reinstall them as long as you line up the marks and you don't rotate the rotating assembly also make sure you buy new head bolts or head stids because the ones on there are torque to yeild bots and can't be reused (they can only be used once because they stretch and when reused don't give accurate torque readings). also mark which retaining cap for the cams goes where because it does make a differance. you want to make sure everything gets reinstalled in the exact same place it came from.
Last edited by cobalt06ss_sc; Oct 10, 2006 at 02:44 AM.
STOP! bdwarr06 please read this and use the link to the GM build book before you take anything apart! I made this for everyone to use from here on out, so I hope it's helpful. If there is anything I should add or question please let me know! Good Luck with the project!
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/headgasket-headstud-ordering-information-everyone-34933/
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/headgasket-headstud-ordering-information-everyone-34933/
Originally Posted by EricDFW
When he turns the motor to TDC, will he have to 'lock' the cams in place with a special tool or anything before removing the head?
Originally Posted by cobalt06ss_sc
NO that's why i would make marks as points of referance. i'm sure there are marks on the cam and timing gears but without actually seeing them i can't tell you what to look for or anything like that considering i haven't messed around with these motors that much. making the referance marks would be the easiest way for a "rookie" to get it close before setting the timing.
ok ive put heads on bout 8 cobalts 3 were ss sc timin is no big deal at all last thing u need to worry bout u need to take off belt an idler pulley an the side cover an cam gears an just let the chain hang intake manifold just gets unbolted an stays in car
...theres a start
Originally Posted by carbombss
ok ive put heads on bout 8 cobalts 3 were ss sc timin is no big deal at all last thing u need to worry bout u need to take off belt an idler pulley an the side cover an cam gears an just let the chain hang intake manifold just gets unbolted an stays in car
...theres a start
...theres a start
yea i was just trying to give him a way to get close on the timing. you have to have a tuning program to set the timing on these right? my experience building motors is mostly with small block chevy's like the L98. so i must admit when it comes to setting the final timing on these motors i'm a bit of a noob but i could get it pretty damn close. what's ya thoughts brotha man?
Originally Posted by cobalt06ss_sc
yea i was just trying to give him a way to get close on the timing. you have to have a tuning program to set the timing on these right? my experience building motors is mostly with small block chevy's like the L98. so i must admit when it comes to setting the final timing on these motors i'm a bit of a noob but i could get it pretty damn close. what's ya thoughts brotha man?
**** its cake set crank sprocket at 5 o clock exhaust at 11 o clock an intake at 2 ....pink mark on chain go on exhaust cam an crank sprocket blue chain on intake also cam gears are marked int an ext with diamond an triangle just line em up an your done
sounds more complicated then it is
the intake may not need to be removed from the car but it definately needs to be unbolted. if there were only bolts on the top it would leak like a bitch from the bottom especially with the added pressure of the supercharger.
dude are they just at an odd angle? or is the socket too big for the area around the bolt?
dude are they just at an odd angle? or is the socket too big for the area around the bolt?
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