How do I power the intercooler pump with the engine off ????
02-21-2007, 01:19 PM
#26
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http://www.r edlineforums.com/forums...g?d=1150696516
take out the space in the link
for this, on the top right, does the wire to the direct left of the word source goto the other side of the swith?
take out the space in the link
for this, on the top right, does the wire to the direct left of the word source goto the other side of the swith?
Last edited by chipmonk212121; 02-21-2007 at 01:50 PM.
02-21-2007, 05:02 PM
#27
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Well last summer I did a complete schematic and instructions for a rewire in order to be able to control the fans and CAC pump with a dash mounted switch.(for both the Redline and the SS/SC) It's posted over in the Redline forums (the upload cap over here prohibits PDF files larger than 19k for what ever reason)
BUT just jumpering the 4 relays (30 to 87) Low, High, Cool/SerPa and Intercooler relays is a LOT easier and now with HPT you can just remap the codes so they dont set.(The Cool/SerPa relay is required so the fans wont run in series at 1/2 speed. If your booster pack is low you can pull that one and cut the current in 1/2.
Make sure you only use FUSED jumpers so that if you make an accidental mistake it wont burn out the internal bussing INSIDE the Fuse block. (I use 20awg fusible link wire)
I also use a knife switch on the battery ground so I can use a booster pack in the trunk to run the fans on full and and CAC pump between rounds and not kill the vehicle battery. Works good you can just close the trunk , lock your doors and go have a hot dog while you fans and pump run full-bore to cool your temps. Then when you get deep into the stage lanes CLOSE the knife switch REMOVE the booster pack, and once you start-up your pump and fans will come on immediately anyways if you have HP Tuners. Pulling the lamps fuses is optional, but if your using HPT a lot (and have the key ON) the lights are a major draw. (Of course not such a good idea at night)
Works awesome - I've got 5 or 6 cars rigged up this way
WopOnTour
BUT just jumpering the 4 relays (30 to 87) Low, High, Cool/SerPa and Intercooler relays is a LOT easier and now with HPT you can just remap the codes so they dont set.(The Cool/SerPa relay is required so the fans wont run in series at 1/2 speed. If your booster pack is low you can pull that one and cut the current in 1/2.
Make sure you only use FUSED jumpers so that if you make an accidental mistake it wont burn out the internal bussing INSIDE the Fuse block. (I use 20awg fusible link wire)
I also use a knife switch on the battery ground so I can use a booster pack in the trunk to run the fans on full and and CAC pump between rounds and not kill the vehicle battery. Works good you can just close the trunk , lock your doors and go have a hot dog while you fans and pump run full-bore to cool your temps. Then when you get deep into the stage lanes CLOSE the knife switch REMOVE the booster pack, and once you start-up your pump and fans will come on immediately anyways if you have HP Tuners. Pulling the lamps fuses is optional, but if your using HPT a lot (and have the key ON) the lights are a major draw. (Of course not such a good idea at night)
Works awesome - I've got 5 or 6 cars rigged up this way
WopOnTour
I poped over to redlinefourms and took a look at all the posts you made and couldn't find it. You have a link?
edit** guy above beat me me to it
02-21-2007, 06:53 PM
#29
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Looks good WOT, the fuse for the intercooler pump is somewhat redundant if you are just jumping it. The 15A aftercool fuse is still there for protection. As for the switches on the fans i dont know how good of an idea that is. Its 12ga wire with a 30A fuse in it. Jumping them with a suitable gauge wire would be the best. I guess if it were my car i would even try grounding C1 (E10) & C5 (A1). Thats basically what the pcm does when it commands them on. This way you are still only using a low current to control the high current with the relay. Much safer in my point of view. Also you get high speed this way. Even though nothing will ever happen the other way. These connectors are underneath the UBEC. OH ya C1 is black 68 terminals, and C5 is gray 32 terminals. -Nathan
02-21-2007, 08:44 PM
#30
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THis is awsome. I was always wondering more on this subject and on the subject of the speed of the intercooler pump, Like if I could run it full speed all of the time. It's a great Idea to do this nice jobs guys! THis is a great mod (probably my next) and thread and I wish I saw more like this.
06-03-2007, 11:29 AM
#31
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hmmmm gonna dig this old one up.
because its such good information.
I would really love to see a howto on this to have it switched like patath does....safely with no DTCs.
anyone wanna tackle it? cuz i really want to do this mod.
150+IAT2s prior to every run is terrible for power
because its such good information.
I would really love to see a howto on this to have it switched like patath does....safely with no DTCs.
anyone wanna tackle it? cuz i really want to do this mod.
150+IAT2s prior to every run is terrible for power
06-03-2007, 11:37 AM
#32
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Yeah I don't know how safely mine is wired up but I have had the switches on the car now for nearly a year. I changed out the wiring to fusible link wire so it would burn up before aything else. Really the only time I use it is at the track or when I bled my intercooler.
Otherwise, my intercooler starts 5 second after I start the car and my fans run once the car hits 190 degrees.
Otherwise, my intercooler starts 5 second after I start the car and my fans run once the car hits 190 degrees.
06-03-2007, 11:43 AM
#33
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yeah thats exactly what i want.
a nice safe switched setup. to turn on pump/fans full bore when im at the track.
and act completely normal when the switches are off.
so....patath....with the best avatar on cobaltss.net........are you busy? lol
this would be a killer howto.
a nice safe switched setup. to turn on pump/fans full bore when im at the track.
and act completely normal when the switches are off.
so....patath....with the best avatar on cobaltss.net........are you busy? lol
this would be a killer howto.
06-03-2007, 01:40 PM
#35
Premium Member
I've constructed a few so far
It included three 30A sealed GM relays and a 3-position toggle switch switch that ran both fans either at 100% or 50% (series wired) as well as the CAC pump (and an OFF position of course- otherwise at 100% it will kill the battery in just 30 minutes)
I'd consider making more if there was enough interest, est cost $100-$150??
We put the switch inside the small "cubby" compartment to the left of the steering wheel.
I also put a high current "knife" switch in the trunk so the fans can be run in the pits with a booster pack keeping the car's battery fully charged. Works good
I've also created a harness to rewire the LSJ fuel pump with 10gauge wire from the generator connector right back to the fuel pump (including the pump ground) with the option to install a Boost A Pump. It only uses a single sealed 30A GM relay but would cost maybe just a bit less due to the cost of the 10ga wire and conduit to run it all inside safely to the rear of the car underneath.
Like I said if there was enough interest, say like at least 10-15 people I would consider spending a couple days assembling them with complete installation instructions.
Wop
It included three 30A sealed GM relays and a 3-position toggle switch switch that ran both fans either at 100% or 50% (series wired) as well as the CAC pump (and an OFF position of course- otherwise at 100% it will kill the battery in just 30 minutes)
I'd consider making more if there was enough interest, est cost $100-$150??
We put the switch inside the small "cubby" compartment to the left of the steering wheel.
I also put a high current "knife" switch in the trunk so the fans can be run in the pits with a booster pack keeping the car's battery fully charged. Works good
I've also created a harness to rewire the LSJ fuel pump with 10gauge wire from the generator connector right back to the fuel pump (including the pump ground) with the option to install a Boost A Pump. It only uses a single sealed 30A GM relay but would cost maybe just a bit less due to the cost of the 10ga wire and conduit to run it all inside safely to the rear of the car underneath.
Like I said if there was enough interest, say like at least 10-15 people I would consider spending a couple days assembling them with complete installation instructions.
Wop
06-03-2007, 02:03 PM
#36
Senior Member
I like that idea. though myself i dunno if i could drop that kinda $$ on it.
Id just love to see some pics showing exactly how to wire it in similar to the way patath has it (but with fuses lol)
also....do you think you could do it without the booster if you limited it to 5-10 minutes between runs? or is it to much drain on the battery?
Id just love to see some pics showing exactly how to wire it in similar to the way patath has it (but with fuses lol)
also....do you think you could do it without the booster if you limited it to 5-10 minutes between runs? or is it to much drain on the battery?
07-26-2007, 11:38 PM
#38
Senior Member
Just buy 4 "inline" 10A fuse holders or 1ft of 20awg fusible link wire from ANY automotive parts supply and solder the correct terminals on each end of the wire
I strongly recommend you use ONLY the correct Metripack 280 series male terminals when connecting these jumpers (the GM PN# is in the pic above), otherwise you risk permanent damage to the fuseblock.
Here's pics of a fully "jumped" fuseblock (using 20awg fusible link) and one of the "knife" switch or battery cut-off switch (with booster pack) installed at the battery as previously discussed.
Whenever you return to the pits...
1. Connect booster pack as shown
2. Open knife switch
When you're heading for your run
1. Close the knife switch
2. Remove booster pack
*If you want to temporarily disable the fans/pump (to work on the car for instance) you can pull the jumpers entirely or even just the "87" end of the wire. A switch is really unneccessary IMO as once your time at the track is done- just pull the jumpers and reinstall the relays
HTH
WopOnTour
I strongly recommend you use ONLY the correct Metripack 280 series male terminals when connecting these jumpers (the GM PN# is in the pic above), otherwise you risk permanent damage to the fuseblock.
Here's pics of a fully "jumped" fuseblock (using 20awg fusible link) and one of the "knife" switch or battery cut-off switch (with booster pack) installed at the battery as previously discussed.
Whenever you return to the pits...
1. Connect booster pack as shown
2. Open knife switch
When you're heading for your run
1. Close the knife switch
2. Remove booster pack
*If you want to temporarily disable the fans/pump (to work on the car for instance) you can pull the jumpers entirely or even just the "87" end of the wire. A switch is really unneccessary IMO as once your time at the track is done- just pull the jumpers and reinstall the relays
HTH
WopOnTour
isnt there a way to run all these just through one switch on/off thats it, i dont wanna reinstall realys every time im at the track, i wanna flick the switch on, have the pump and fans on and running at the end of the run and turn it off when they call the cars to the staging lanes.
07-27-2007, 12:03 PM
#40
Senior Member
you cant run your fans/pump with HPtuners unless the key is on though.
the way i have mine is completely safe, using metripak connectors, and fused wire.
and is easily installed/removed for track day.
the way i have mine is completely safe, using metripak connectors, and fused wire.
and is easily installed/removed for track day.
08-13-2007, 01:23 PM
#42
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Thanks Wop on tour , I will try that . For the fans , I just supplied power to the 87 terminal of the fan relays , and they fired up without the engine running . I tried that method on the smaller intercooler relay , and it didnt turn on , so I'll try what u said .
Im doing this , because it works to cool off the car qwickly without sitting there heatsoaking. If u have a scan tool , watch the IAT2 temps while the car is sitting there off . It heatsoaks enuff to get up to 150* plus . With both fans running and the pump circulating the temps wont climb one bit . Plus with the amount of air our fans move ( Im impressed
) it will also cool the blower housing and manifold .
SSnipes- Both of my fans are set to run all the time thru HPtuners , you cant however , set the fans to come on when the engine is off .
I got the idea from Rob , by doing this his intercooler didnt heat soak at all , and after a very short time his blower and manifold was cold to the touch . To where mine was still hot enuff to burn yourself after a 1/2 hour of sitting . I didnt think Id have a prob with any of the wiring , so I never asked him how he got the intercooler on .
Im doing this , because it works to cool off the car qwickly without sitting there heatsoaking. If u have a scan tool , watch the IAT2 temps while the car is sitting there off . It heatsoaks enuff to get up to 150* plus . With both fans running and the pump circulating the temps wont climb one bit . Plus with the amount of air our fans move ( Im impressed
) it will also cool the blower housing and manifold . SSnipes- Both of my fans are set to run all the time thru HPtuners , you cant however , set the fans to come on when the engine is off .
I got the idea from Rob , by doing this his intercooler didnt heat soak at all , and after a very short time his blower and manifold was cold to the touch . To where mine was still hot enuff to burn yourself after a 1/2 hour of sitting . I didnt think Id have a prob with any of the wiring , so I never asked him how he got the intercooler on .
great info WOP and others. thanks. just another setup to do. at least this is easy.
I agree who needs switches. if you taking a break just pull the jumpers. easy enough. You want to leave the hood open anyway.
08-13-2007, 05:01 PM
#43
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here is the way i did it. simple! and there is a video.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/heat-exchanger-fans-switch-mod-68621/
and b4 anyone says anything, yes only one fan is on high and ic pump is on. this is my way and it gets the job done.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/heat-exchanger-fans-switch-mod-68621/
and b4 anyone says anything, yes only one fan is on high and ic pump is on. this is my way and it gets the job done.
07-17-2008, 08:26 PM
#46
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Just buy 4 "inline" 10A fuse holders or 1ft of 20awg fusible link wire from ANY automotive parts supply and solder the correct terminals on each end of the wire
I strongly recommend you use ONLY the correct Metripack 280 series male terminals when connecting these jumpers (the GM PN# is in the pic above), otherwise you risk permanent damage to the fuseblock.
Here's pics of a fully "jumped" fuseblock (using 20awg fusible link) and one of the "knife" switch or battery cut-off switch (with booster pack) installed at the battery as previously discussed.
Whenever you return to the pits...
1. Connect booster pack as shown
2. Open knife switch
When you're heading for your run
1. Close the knife switch
2. Remove booster pack
*If you want to temporarily disable the fans/pump (to work on the car for instance) you can pull the jumpers entirely or even just the "87" end of the wire. A switch is really unneccessary IMO as once your time at the track is done- just pull the jumpers and reinstall the relays
HTH
WopOnTour
I strongly recommend you use ONLY the correct Metripack 280 series male terminals when connecting these jumpers (the GM PN# is in the pic above), otherwise you risk permanent damage to the fuseblock.
Here's pics of a fully "jumped" fuseblock (using 20awg fusible link) and one of the "knife" switch or battery cut-off switch (with booster pack) installed at the battery as previously discussed.
Whenever you return to the pits...
1. Connect booster pack as shown
2. Open knife switch
When you're heading for your run
1. Close the knife switch
2. Remove booster pack
*If you want to temporarily disable the fans/pump (to work on the car for instance) you can pull the jumpers entirely or even just the "87" end of the wire. A switch is really unneccessary IMO as once your time at the track is done- just pull the jumpers and reinstall the relays
HTH
WopOnTour
Is this something you can leave? or is this only for at the track???
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