How to "Get Rid of Knock without Tuning"
And listen to TOFU he sounds like he can help you out on the fine tuning more then I can.
At what RPM during 3rd, 4th are you experiencing knock? is it during WOT? What kind of fuel do you have available in your area? 16-17 timing advance should not be creating knock, especially running 60lb injectors. Do you have a dyno sheet with an A/F read-out? Also what is your tuner using to tune your ride? HPT? If so, post the .bin file and I'll take a look at it. Also, do you know what your IAT's are at WOT?
A high IAT2 is suspected...
Without tuning, try increasing the octane or reducing the temps going into the combustion chamber. Fog it with some meth/nitrous. I have basically the same setup you do and I only get knock in lower rpm's between gear changes (burst knock). My afr is ~12.3 and my IAT2 during WOT in 3rd or 4th is <140.
Without tuning, try increasing the octane or reducing the temps going into the combustion chamber. Fog it with some meth/nitrous. I have basically the same setup you do and I only get knock in lower rpm's between gear changes (burst knock). My afr is ~12.3 and my IAT2 during WOT in 3rd or 4th is <140.
It sounds like pre-ignition to me. Since he is stating he only gets knock @ WOT in those gears I think there is something causing autoignition (charge before spark).
Glock, you might want to try this if you have a way to read knock retard on the street. Put your car into 3rd-4th gear at the lowest mph possible and go WOT. If you get knock during the lower RPMs there is a good chance it may be detonation vs. pre-ignition. Since pre-ignition occurs when a foreign object in the cylinder chamber becomes hot enough to create combustion before the spark you usually will not see this happening in the lower RPM range. Reason being is only at high speeds and higher a/f amounts do you get the enough heat and pressure to cause a foreign object (usually a tiny metal shaving) to combust creating autoignition.
Of course, this is not to say you will not get detonation at higher rpm's....but instances like that usually only occur in very high compression motors.
Glock, you might want to try this if you have a way to read knock retard on the street. Put your car into 3rd-4th gear at the lowest mph possible and go WOT. If you get knock during the lower RPMs there is a good chance it may be detonation vs. pre-ignition. Since pre-ignition occurs when a foreign object in the cylinder chamber becomes hot enough to create combustion before the spark you usually will not see this happening in the lower RPM range. Reason being is only at high speeds and higher a/f amounts do you get the enough heat and pressure to cause a foreign object (usually a tiny metal shaving) to combust creating autoignition.
Of course, this is not to say you will not get detonation at higher rpm's....but instances like that usually only occur in very high compression motors.
It sounds like pre-ignition to me. Since he is stating he only gets knock @ WOT in those gears I think there is something causing autoignition (charge before spark).
Glock, you might want to try this if you have a way to read knock retard on the street. Put your car into 3rd-4th gear at the lowest mph possible and go WOT. If you get knock during the lower RPMs there is a good chance it may be detonation vs. pre-ignition. Since pre-ignition occurs when a foreign object in the cylinder chamber becomes hot enough to create combustion before the spark you usually will not see this happening in the lower RPM range. Reason being is only at high speeds and higher a/f amounts do you get the enough heat and pressure to cause a foreign object (usually a tiny metal shaving) to combust creating autoignition.
Of course, this is not to say you will not get detonation at higher rpm's....but instances like that usually only occur in very high compression motors.
Glock, you might want to try this if you have a way to read knock retard on the street. Put your car into 3rd-4th gear at the lowest mph possible and go WOT. If you get knock during the lower RPMs there is a good chance it may be detonation vs. pre-ignition. Since pre-ignition occurs when a foreign object in the cylinder chamber becomes hot enough to create combustion before the spark you usually will not see this happening in the lower RPM range. Reason being is only at high speeds and higher a/f amounts do you get the enough heat and pressure to cause a foreign object (usually a tiny metal shaving) to combust creating autoignition.
Of course, this is not to say you will not get detonation at higher rpm's....but instances like that usually only occur in very high compression motors.
Sorry for the late reply. You are definitely experiencing detonation as you are getting knock at any variable RPM under load. Detonation occurs when the thermal stability of the fuel being used is compromised by both heat and compression (pressure created from the cylinder cycle). Like Doc said you want your LTFT's (Long Term Fuel Trim) 0 to -4 ideally. I'm assuming you guys are tuning in SD mode and not using a wideband? Also, check the commanded AFR% and IDC.
Sorry for the late reply. You are definitely experiencing detonation as you are getting knock at any variable RPM under load. Detonation occurs when the thermal stability of the fuel being used is compromised by both heat and compression (pressure created from the cylinder cycle). Like Doc said you want your LTFT's (Long Term Fuel Trim) 0 to -4 ideally. I'm assuming you guys are tuning in SD mode and not using a wideband? Also, check the commanded AFR% and IDC.
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