Just replaced mine last weekend. Took me about 2 and a half hours, not too hard. Mine had already been replaced before so the hoses came off easily.

 

Honestly, came into this with zero experience, it took me a bit longer, but I agree, the only real difficulty was the hose being stuck to the pump due to heat and time. I accidentally thought the clamps were the problem, and I promptly ground them off with my rotary tool. Of course, grinding off the clamps destroyed the hose underneath, and I had to be careful to not catch anything on fire with the high heat the grinding was making (the hose actually smoked a few times).

Anyway, don't think the clamps are the problem, focus on the hose for anyone doing this in the future! Get a pair of vice grips (can't be too big, or won't fit between the car's steel and this clamp) to hold the clamp open, snake a WD-40 red straw up between the hose and the pump where they meet, and spray WD-40 in there. Next, twist the hose back and forth, being careful to not bump the vice grips too much. The hose will pop off, and the clamp and hose will be totally re-usable.

Don't forget, if you have only minimal clearance under the car like me, you can actually pull the I/C pump up through the engine bay and out by the S/C. Then, you can disconnect the hose standing looking down into the engine bay, way, way, easier.

Next time I replace this pump, I bet my fuel filter will take longer to change then this.

PS: Fuel filter is easily replaced in 15 minutes using a quick disconnect tool.

 

So my IC pump Is broke as well, but my Problem is the actual connector has been fried. Like completely melted. So I'm guessing i will need to replace the connector as well.

Does anyone know where I can purchase the connector and also will I need new wires.

Just trying to get everything together for install.

 

Also, to follow-up on my OP, after installing the new I/C Pump ($99) and filling the intercooler system with fresh coolant, it took exactly 1 week for the air to bleed completely from the intercoolers.

You'll know when the air is gone, this wasn't evident to me at first, however, I was unfortunately not reading the right signs, it's important to pay close attention to the filler tube. Admittedly, I mistook the hot level line as being the minimum fill line, rookie mistake which I think other people must make too. So...

When you pop the hood and the engine's off, you'll barely see any coolant in the filler tube looking from the top down, all you should see is a slight orange glow if you use say 50/50 mix. Don't be alarmed, this seemingly low level is misleading and the only true way to check the level is with the engine on. Turning on the engine will raise the level at or just past the line, this line represents the Hot coolant maximum line, it is not a minimum coolant line as I interpreted it as. If it's at this line, it's perfect. If it stays like this for several days, you know you have no leaks and you also know that the air has bled from the system as the level is consistent.

Hope this helps.