HPT's take on E67 ECU for LSJ
You make it sound like an impossibility, I explain how it isn't, you get sarcastic lol
I have more information I will try and post on my pc when I get home. I got some information on the gm racing builds that might be useful to someone. Eventually, me when I get the money.
I have more information I will try and post on my pc when I get home. I got some information on the gm racing builds that might be useful to someone. Eventually, me when I get the money.
piggy back isn't what most of us are looking for. Piggy back means one ecu controls one part of the engine and the other controls another. You need one computer controlling the engine to have the best control. That would be a parallel in stall.
From F.A.S.T.
"The ignition system would have to be separate unless you used our XIM ignition box. You would have to run a crank trigger to make that work. If you ran the LS1 throttle body, you could use the LS1 TPS and IAC motor. You would then need a MAP, ATS and CTS. You would then need the ECU, main harness and injector harness."
Most of which we already knew.
"The ignition system would have to be separate unless you used our XIM ignition box. You would have to run a crank trigger to make that work. If you ran the LS1 throttle body, you could use the LS1 TPS and IAC motor. You would then need a MAP, ATS and CTS. You would then need the ECU, main harness and injector harness."
Most of which we already knew.
Last edited by slitterell; May 9, 2014 at 04:37 AM.
the piggy back pcm totally controls the engine out put plent of people have used them and made plenty of power
as for the conecotrs like im doing in my build for the AEM pigyback im creating a plug and play harness that way I dont have to modify the stock harness, this would alow you to take the standalone out when it comes to emission time and still have a functioning car
sensor wise they will all work fine if you just tap into them ive proven this in useing the AEM fic (go read my how to thread) the only sensors that you may have trouble with are the oxygen sensor which if you plan on using an AEM stand alone you would want to use there wideband anyway and the knock sensor as im not sure if ours is compatable with a standalone and the water temp sensor as it is a resistive sensor but dont quote me on that last one
im sure i have not listed everything that needs to be done here, but just thought i would layout how I see using a standalone posible
lets see im thinking you would need to tap the folowing items
Throttle position referance
MAP (if the Standalone does not have its own onboard)
starter relay coil control
crank position sensor signal 1-2
camshaft position sensor
MAF sensor signal
*IAT sensors
*coolent temp sensors
*knock sensor
you would want to intercept and have the stand alone control
injectors 1-4
ignition signal 1-4
boost solenoid control
and more
Last edited by Axelthered05; May 9, 2014 at 09:10 AM.
cool Im was not sure how the knock sensor works so I was hesatant to say it would work with anything other than the stocker computer
honestly I think the best way to get this done is to tap into the all the sensors and route them to a standalone then disconect the ignition and injectors from stock computer and have them controled by standalone, that way your stock computer can see all the stock sensors but the stand alone not only sees the stock sensors but controls fuel, ignition, timing and so on that way you retain all your gauges, bcm so basicly im saying use the stock computer as a data center for the rest of the car but use the stand alone for engine control. also your going to have to turn a lot of fuel system, ignition and other codes off, however keeping all the sensors conected to the stock pcm allows you to still if you would like retain some trouble codes like "knock warning" or "fuel trim to lean" and so on
as for the conecotrs like im doing in my build for the AEM pigyback im creating a plug and play harness that way I dont have to modify the stock harness, this would alow you to take the standalone out when it comes to emission time and still have a functioning car
sensor wise they will all work fine if you just tap into them ive proven this in useing the AEM fic (go read my how to thread) the only sensors that you may have trouble with are the oxygen sensor which if you plan on using an AEM stand alone you would want to use there wideband anyway and the knock sensor as im not sure if ours is compatable with a standalone and the water temp sensor as it is a resistive sensor but dont quote me on that last one
im sure i have not listed everything that needs to be done here, but just thought i would layout how I see using a standalone posible
lets see im thinking you would need to tap the folowing items
Throttle position referance
MAP (if the Standalone does not have its own onboard)
starter relay coil control
crank position sensor signal 1-2
camshaft position sensor
MAF sensor signal
*IAT sensors
*coolent temp sensors
*knock sensor
you would want to intercept and have the stand alone control
injectors 1-4
ignition signal 1-4
boost solenoid control
and more
Emissions wouldn't car because they would see a functioning car with no codes. The stock ecm would be disconnected from output to engine functions. The way it reads on yours they both will control fuel and ignition. I don't think you intended it that way.
Temperature and CSPS are a must. Hooking up ignition could be tricky. You might have to go to change there. Something to look into. I would change to a 3 bar map anyways so that wouldn't be an issue.
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