Adiaz1ss

iTrader: (1)

Im running a 2.8 pulley guys and I am running distilled water with water wetter in the ic system. I changed back the stock supercharger and will be doing some pulls shortly to see if temps change

Adiaz1ss

iTrader: (1)

Lmao so something funny just happened. I was out testing the car when all of a sudden I get the engine power reduced reading on the dash and im just like please no! Lol I get home and check the codes p0122 and p0223. I check the throttle boddy and sure enough the connector was off. So one problem fixed thank god.

Adiaz1ss

iTrader: (1)

Anyways did 2 pulls on the car from 2nd to top of 3rd and iat2 temps rose to 150+ degrees. Outside temp is roughly about 93-110 though. Driving iat2 temps are about 32 over iat temps. Does that sound right? Also temps came back down to 32 over ambient in about 7 seconds after the pulls? The pic is just so you guys see its hot as hell down here in the rgv lol its at idle.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

re reading this, the facts are post 12 Mr Belvedere gave you the clues. The restrictor is ,040.

as for LNF silly phenolic kool aid spacer, no offense but 6 degrees change on a non scientific un instrumented test not back to back or side by side? popcorn numbers. I would be happy to direct you to an appropriate test facility so you can get good data. But you are happy eCaulk that is all that matters.

The OP can expect a 20-30 degree differential in Texas no doubt.
water wetter and water is better. NO fmic will ever be better. NO ac radiator will be better but inlikely you will take it off. But do yourself a huge fabor, take the fmic off and report back. You will be happier.
The restrictor? its .040" thats less than one sixteenth of an inch. You can make the restrictyor yourself with some one inch long wood or plastic 1/4 diameter rod and drill a hole .040 right down the center of the the piece. stick it in the bleed hose anywhere, up at the reservoir will be good. Ditch your T fittings for Y fittings ifyou can. you will be good.

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

and I gave clues right before him.... No one chooses to read or listen anymore.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

people need to quit feeding the animals

Sabotage_666

I do not know how old this thread is but I need some help. After a lot of reading on this site I thought it would be a good idea to check my ict2 temps but when I went to check them on my scan tool I could not find them anywhere. I own an auto x-Ray 6000 and it was not cheap. Why can I not did them and what scan tool do I need at a minimum?

Thank you

Adiaz1ss

iTrader: (1)

Get an interceptor gauge and plug it in your obd port. Shows all kind of parameters. Zzp and ottp sell them. Or get a used one on here for less.

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

This.

Sabotage_666

Is the interceptor the only scanner that will read that?

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

HP Tuners can, and I believe the app for the droid phones will.

reddragon72

Torque for android. You'll need the ODB2 bluetooth adapter from ebay (get the black boxed with a blue and orange label from ebay it works! DO NOT GET THE BLUE ONE OR WHITE ONE)

Here is my setup.

cruising in traffic


sitting in traffic


After 0-80-0 WOT (took down a rumble bee and stopped to talk)


2.9 pulley and 60s with zzp canned tune. No cooling mods at all down here in 103 temps(dash reading) Houston Texas

Sabotage_666

Lol I got an iPhone....

I'm just want to know if my intercooler pump is working correctly. I won't be able to get under the car till Sunday to do any polarity test.

I have a gm stage 2 kit. My max boost is 15 psi at wot but I have noticed I have to be really high up in the rpm like 6500-7000 to get to it. Is that normal?

reddragon72

You can do the cheesy test which is turn the key on so the pump runs. then open the cap to the cooling for the IC and squeeze the hose on the left side and see if the fluid swirls in the feeder tube. As always don't open the cap with a hot system.

I am at max around 4500-5000 I believe. Id'e have to check though.

Staged07SS

iTrader: (25)

Yes. Normal.

Roots type blower cars make linear boost, and at the top of the rpm band.

As engine speed is increasing, so is the boost.

Sabotage_666

I tried the cheesy test but I don't think the pump is working no swirling or bubbles but the filler neck is kinda full so idk.

Hockeyman

iTrader: (4)

The IC pump will not turn on with key on unless tuned with HPT and adjusted.

Turn the car on. Put a straw in the filler neck. If It moves, IC pump works. You can open the cap anytime the fluid does not get that hot.

Sabotage_666

How do I run the polarity test to make sure it is wired correctly?

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

test light. power lead will light up test light. ground will not. check test lite works first.

Sabotage_666

Sounds easy enough does the pump show what side is positive and what side is negative?

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

plus and minus

Sabotage_666

Awesome! Will see what I find. Thank you guys for the help so far.

Micro

Have you checked to see that your laminovas in the heat-exchanger below the supercharger are installed to allow liquid flow in the proper direction? It is important to check this when switching to the dual-pass endplate.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

the intake manifold is not the heat exchanger it would be more like an intercooler the heat exchanger is located between the ac condenser and the radiator

Sabotage_666

Ok here is where I am at. I ran the polarity test and it is correctly wired. I tapped the pump with a small hammer and felt the high pressure side hose and I could barly squeeze it. I unplugged the pump and I could squeeze said hose pretty well. So I guess I am buying a new ic pump. Gonna get the zz performance 3" intake too, gonna let that blower scream! Haha!