alright well im in the middle of purchasing the intense stage 3 kit off of a member on here, and i was just thinkin about my next supporting mods, now i know i should get a new h/e and a header/downpipe combo, and meth at some point, and im not sure what the dualpass endplate is and what it does if someone could elaborate. i guess my question is what do you guys think should me my main proirity, some time down the line i'm going to get 60's and a custom tune but thisis a starting point and its better than gm stg 2 so im happy lol

any input appreciated, im use to wrking on bg diesel trucks so i dont know a shitload about blown 4 bangers and ill be the first to tell ya that lol

 

next is a new tune with hptuners so you don't risk cooking your motor with the canned tune from Intense.

dual pass end plate = useless. get water/methanol and a front mount heat exchanger.

 

Yeah ditch the intense tune it is no good! In the long run that tune will weaken your motor and pop!

 

yea, ive read alot about how bad canned tunes are, so if im running the 2.9 pulley the 42.5's are fine or are they maxed?, i am definitley getting it tuned, probably by wicked if he's willing, but am i ok to romp on my car a little until spring?

and the heat exchanger is next, im hoping i can get an afr gauge and i guess the wideband would be necessary for that correct?

 

I got methanol last and for our cars knowing how hot they get. I should have gotten it earlier with the h/e. You do need to tune for it though

 

A 2.9" pulley will max out 42# on a well done custom tune. On a canned tune, GM Stage 2, or an ok custom tune you will be well over 100% IDC.

*EDIT*
That is, a well done custom tune if you live somewhere warm and/or well above sea level. Both would be best. If you live somewhere really cold and really close to sea level, there is little your tuner can do to keep you from running well over 100% IDC unless he sets your redline down low.

 

For the AFR.. you can get the Interceptor, and get a wideband plug (Lc-1 i think, it doesnt come with a gauge, but you can read it through the interceptor)... And there you have a cool ass gauge with your real AFR.

Dual pass = useless? I think not... what it does is that instead of the coolant running through the intake mani 4 times, it does it... well... twice... So the coolant is heated for less time, thus taking more heat away from the engine. It helps, alot... actually... esp with the option B tank.

If you use meth w/o a tune, you'll lose a little power, but your engine will be WAYY less hot = safer. A new tune is probly the next bet (wait till you get the 60s first or it will be a waste of money). A heat exchanger does wonders, esp ran with a dual pass, youll notice alot of coolin goin on.

I dont think youll have problems if your smart... dont floor it everwhere, you dont need to be in full boost all the time.... and its ok to accelerate at half throttle ... Im not sure how old you are, but someone once said "dont drive like a pubescent Teen who saw fast and the furious for the first time" and youll be ok till spring.

 

O RLY?

2.8 + 40 degree cold weather (i think it was actually 38)
800 ft above sea level



yes 2.9 + gm tune = maxxed injectors

 

yea im on a 2.8 and my idcs arent over 100...

yea yea i know i know you shouldnt be over 80 or whatever... but its not over 100...

damn is that almost 28 degrees of advance?

 

yea i dropped the whole high octane map from 92-104 @ 3000 rpm across the board 1.5 degrees after that log.

Also we dont hit 85% idc until 6250 rpm.....how long are we really staying at the extra 750 rpm? .75 seconds according to my logs. Not long enough to go static.

 

Just saying that dual pass endplate is not worth the money for the 2* you might shave off your IAT2.

Also, many modified boosted cars have chunked cylinders in cold weather because of lean conditions. watch the AFR and go easy on it.

 

x2

dual pass not worth it.

 

Well theres a lot of people going in the wrong direction here. The dual pass end plate and option b will do a hell of a lot more than 2* difference in iat's. Your cutting your trip in half with the dual pass along with the added capacity of the option b your looking at solid 15* drops.

A idc is just a calculation whats your pw.

I would also invest in a custom tune, and possibly some 60's down the road.

 

yea but monitor how long it takes for it to cool the iat2s during WOT pull. Problem is the heat soak which dual pass cant fix. Technically dual pass cant even lower the temps, just makes the transport of the fluid more efficient.

I know some "may" see some iat2 drops but imo....not worth it. You would see a better drop in iat2s if you used the windshield washer tank as an extra reservoir for the coolant system.

I think the stock H/E system only holds like 2 quarts... its really tiny amount.

Either way, it cant hurt to put the system on.

 

iat's usually increase under load not cool, do you mean after the pull?, the increased capacity will help for sure to prevent heat soak more so than a stock system.

 

back to back runs will heat it up...yes.

During the 1st and 2nd gear it will cool with the influx of the pump. from 3rd on it starts heating up. This is only if you have NOT done any WOT pulls prior even if you did, the beginning of the WOT pull will drop the IAT2s 5-10 degrees before heating again.

for example stop at a stoplight and watch your IAT2s hit 100 degrees.

at green light you will see it go down to 30 degrees above IAT1 due to the pump+0 boost under normal throttle.

 

I never ran low boost it was a 2.5" on the m62 and a 2.5" on the tvs. Mine would sit still for a second then steadily climb.

 

not everyone is as crazy as you.

i still have my lowly 2.8 It should however, drop considerably after being at idle and then getting on it....even with a 2.5.

idling my IAT2 is 60 degrees over IAT1 (in the winter time)

 

Mine would drop will cruising down idle at the track would kill it, ran hard though