rico

just got mines in from another member and was wondering where and for what are the white and green wired. i know red is for power but i dont know about the other 2 and i dont have the book or anything. thx for help in advance

Tazmanian_Dvl

They are for analog inputs such as a oil pressure sensor or something like that...

rico

oh ok so just put the power one on and plug the thing into the obd2 port and good to go?

Tazmanian_Dvl

Yes make sure the red jumper is off the back. (if it came off a cobalt it should already be off unless the previous owner saved them and reinstalled them which is unlikely)

If the jumper is removed you should see two gold pieces of metal about 1/4 inch long sticking out of the back.

rico

got it all in and working i kept it on ita2 and knock retard. what are other options it has that i should keep my eye on other than those two?

Tazmanian_Dvl

If you have one interceptor I would keep it on IAT1 and IAT2. YOu can also set it to monitor RPM and set it to be a shift light too...

rico

okay i dont have a book i know how to change it to show all diff things top and bottom but hhow do i do the shift light thing?

auggie_ss_phx

here you go hope this helps
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l-lsj-performance-tech-47/how-operate-interceptor-175607/

rico

ah damn thx i must of skipped that one cuz i went to the how tos adn didnt see it thx

auggie_ss_phx

no biggie but its actually on the 2.0L LSJ Performance Tech
thats how i got mine to work

rico

ah lol i see

Gene Culley

iTrader: (1)

Best to go to the Aeroforce site and download the manual. They have it there.

Tazmanian_Dvl

Also if you go to www.aeroforcetech.com there is a PDF instruction manual you can check out...

ShortStack

Why would you want to view your IAT1? Has NOTHING to do with the performance of the car..

You would much rather want to be looking at knock retard...

Tazmanian_Dvl

If you're only looking at IAT2 how do you know if you're temps are running in an acceptable range? I can say yea my IAT2 is at 130* bit if you have no idea what your IAT1 is then how do you know everything is working properly?

For example if you're cruising along and getting a 130* IAT2 and you're IAT1 is at 90* or 95* than you're OK but if you're getting a 130* IAT2 when you're IAT1's are only 50* then you have some issues you should be addressing. either your intercooler pump is broken or you're HP mods have exceeded ythe capabilities of your cooling mods or one of probably a dozen other problems. You need to know your IAT1 to put your IAT2 into context. I generally see IAT2's anywhere from 30*-40* above my IAT1's when I'm cruising depending on how I'm driving. if you'er sitting at a light or in traffic or you do a couple hard pulls your IAT1's will creap up but shouldn't be excessive and they should come back down once you start moving again or you begin driving normally again. Bottom line is that without knowing your IAT1 you're IAT2 is just a number...

ShortStack

Makes sense, but the engine isnt going to start losing performance untill it hits a certain point...

That point is the only thing im worried about... and making sure it doesnt go past that point...

My engine doesnt care how high the temps are rising above ambient, its only worried about how hot they are...

Anyway, KR is WAYYYYYYYYYY more important that IAT1...

If you have dual interceptors, than go for it... Use 1 for temps, other for other stuff....
If you have a single, i wouldnt waste it on IAT1.

Tazmanian_Dvl

You can set to to run on a cyclical mode so you can monitor about 8 different peramiters if you choose...

Also let me put it this way...If you're cruising and your IAT1's are at 50* and your IAT2's are at 140* you better pull your ass over right away cause there is a problem! Screw the performance end of it if you're getting a 90* difference in you're IAT's and you're not doin anything rediculous or sitting in traffic in the sun on a really hot day there is something seriosuly wrong...

BTW I do have dual interceptors and I have one dedicated to IAT's and the other is on KR and boost until I can get a wideband and program the interceptor to read the wideband then the boost will get replaced by AFR from the wideband...

1badBlueberrySC

The car will start yanking timing at 160* IAT2's so all your work in tuning goes down the drain making your as slow or slower than stock.

IAT2s are very important to look at... your IAT1's vs. IAT2's only show the difference between the temp in the intake to the intake manifold. Which are important too.... but not as vital as say Knock or AFR or EGT

ShortStack

Well.. its not really hard for me to guess my IAT1...

normally its a few degrees higher than my DIC... So i can gauge from there...

Much rather be looking at kr....

Tazmanian_Dvl

IMO it's still something you should be monitoring with the cyclical mode. If you're only running one Interceptor. What if the H/E pump goes? You'd have really no way of knowing unless you were monitoring both...

Like I said with the cyclical mode I think you have 4 screens with 2 parameters on each screen that you can monitor...

ShortStack

if the i/c pump went, i would see higher numbers than 160... regardless of what the IAT1 was...

I mean... if your going to cyclical mode it or what ever... then its no problems...

Nor am i saying you are wrong... I just feel that kr is more important if your keeping the screens static.

Tazmanian_Dvl

I agree. However with one Interceptor I would with out a doubt be running cyclical mode to monitor as many important perameters as I could...

rico

well for afr i got the wideband so right now i got the gauge set up at kr and IAT2

adjusting the shift light was easy it works great. now idk which one i have to idk what manual to download can anyone help me out on that?

Tazmanian_Dvl

Probably this one...

http://www.aeroforcetech.com/files/I...AL_rev_2_5.pdf

Gene Culley

iTrader: (1)

The version of manual you use is the version on the back of the actual gauge