If I got the Stage 2 cams...what other mods would I have to do to the engine besides tune the PCM? What do you guys recommend I buy/install? Thanks. Also...could installing these cams make my car illegal for street use or does it not affect that?

 

i would definately not cam my cobalt but thats just me thats the LAST thing i would do and if you were to do it you MIGHT need new heads if not valve springs retainers cam install kit lots of money for labor and 2 crossed fingers you dont blow your engine you also might need new pistons i would definately do the pistons if i went with a cam like i said it would be my last mod

 

When did they get the stage 2 cams? I was just at the site like a 1/2 hour ago and I only saw the stage 1 cams.

 

scroll down dude...they're on the same page as the stage 1's just further down.

 

Do you think a stage 1 cams would be a safer bet they use stock springs etc.??

 

OK, gotcha! I would recomend doing the valve springs at the very least.

 

im sure but i would still upgrade the springs to the next step i dont like going that far into the engine unless i have to ive blown a 3.8 s/c with a vs comp cam so im not too big on going with a cam i would rather put money towards a new blower or a turbo or something like that

 

Get the stage 2 cams, then get the stage 2 or 3 head they have available. Hope you got some dough to drop on this one!

 

yeah. it should be all one thing. Pistons, Heads, Cams, Axles, driveshaft. Saves money. but u will need about $7000 at least

 

Sounds like more work than I want right now. thanks for all the info.

 

the dyno chart is on the web site.
but you should already know about these cams Jim, that dyno chart is from my car, dyno'd at your shop.

I only wish I had thought of the Boost By-pass mod when I was on the dyno.
there is much more power when the car doesn't bleed all the boost you make.
as far as how safe it is, I was on stock valvetrain for 8 months about 20k km

your stock valve train is perfectly ok if you plan on keeping your 65ooRPM limit,
but I'd upgrade your valve train if you go higher then that.

the oly thing you need is to tune for your cams to make it run even better, and you won't have to run the by-pass mod.

 

well the two things i would check is how much clearance you have between the valves and the pistons. if there isn't enough clearance you will need to get pistons with valve reliefs in them so the valves don't smack the pistons and bend the valves and screw the pistons up. also i would check the coil bind height. Uncorrected coil-bind quickly destroys a valvetrain. The dimension at which the spring’s coils all stack solidly should be at least 0.050 inch greater than the cam’s total valve lift, minus any lash if you’re running a solid cam. Each spring component of multispring assemblies should be checked separately, and then all the components should be checked together as an assembly. The proper fix for a coil-bind problem is to find a suitable valvespring that accommodates the valve lift generated by the camshaft.

Edit: as long as these are not an issue you shouldn'e have to upgrade anything on the motor. it doesn't signifigantly increase the compression ratio. the new cams will allow the air more freely into the cylendars with less restriction since the valve is open wider (lift) and longer (duration). now i'm not saying that stronger valve springs wouldn't be a good thing if everything checks out...i'm simply saying as long as they don't bind you should be ok. you will however need to get a refash without a doubt!

 

JBP is doin the protos on my car for the 2.4 cams and my stock valve and such will suite fine

 

Um, this isn't your 3800. It would be wise to do springs and etc if you are running a high rev limiter but GM actually has a tool that can allow you to swap the cams in less than 30 minutes. And I wouldn't do piston. I would probably upgrade my head gasket and studs. To do the pistons is a ton of work compared to just doing headwork. Why would you need to swap the head out? I understand if you went with a really aggressive camshaft but it has already been shown on the dyno to make power with stock head and valvetrain.

 

I can't wait to see what kind of gains you N/A guys get.

 

LOL i think he's just looking for an excuse to rebuild his motor lol. if everytime someone replace the cam in their motor they changed the pistons and heads lol it would be INSANE

 

I cant wait either,the desighner says(met him in person) that he expect about 6 more whp than found on non vvti ecotecs ccams

 

I was thinking about these cams later on down the road, i have the 7k rev limit, i was going to get springs, and ratainers.

 

victory redss(Rod) is doing exactly that and more

 

I could be wrong but that sounds like a shot at JBP. If thats the case that's not very professional. If that is not the case, I apologize.
The cams have been done for the 2.0 and as player_1 has said he has dynoed his car, with the results posted on JBP's site. I will have JBP's cams in my engine but a dyno will not be helpful with the results of just the cams. The dyno of my engine will go one better and prove or disprove (I am betting against the latter) JBP's ability to do the real deal on an engine build for our cars.
As for these 2.4 cams these are the prototypes so lets give Mike a chance to run and then test the cams out, 2-3 weeks is a short time to wait for the answer. After that there will be another dyno chart posted for JBP's cams.