Originally Posted by redcobalt08

This could get good

Originally Posted by mrbelvedere

im not knocking but you when people post a list like this this is what I see where the money could have been spent on going faster

Originally Posted by mrbelvedere

I agree but I am more concerned about going fast the insides and such were good enough

Originally Posted by mrbelvedere

there is nothing to get good about opinions are like ass holes everyone has one

Originally Posted by mrbelvedere

I agree but I am more concerned about going fast the insides and such were good enough

Originally Posted by riceburner

ok guys here's the list of everything ive had to get in order to do this. total is 5105 including the expected dyno tune, and still not including new plugs, oil, assembly lube etc lol.

but 5105. a little more than 2k dont ya think?

granted, the trans and zzp h/e was not necessary and some parts are above and beyond but i needed it all in order to get tuned for it all at the same time.

Got spare head from almclure, taken as 125$ value for giving him seats
Gave head right to lsjion, 375 shipped back to me ported
Cams from bluelightning for 550 shipped
Valve cover I got for free from kdub1492, pc’d for 40 not needed

16 valve retainers – 69
New header studs and bolts – 40 not needed

11609476 nuts (idk what for) 11 bucks
32 valve stem keys – 80 not needed

New intake and exhaust valves from zzp – 160 not needed

Blower oil – 8.99 not needed for head swap

Coppetech header gasket – 50
LSJ Timing Chain Deluxe Set $255
Ecotec Thermostat $42.27 not needed

Fuel Injector Insulator $21.56
LSJ Intake Gasket $15.42
Supercharger Mounting Bolts $7.84 not needed unless damged

CM/SHF POSN SEN HSG OIL (O RING) $6.29
Ecotec LSJ 2.0 Valve Cover Gasket $42.90
Cylinder Head Gasket 2.0 $58.18
LSJ Clutch Bearing - Cylinder $103.60 not needed for head swap

cobalt Clutch Pipe $8.32 not needed for head swap

Manual Transmission Fluid SAE 75W-85 GL/4 888624722$43.56 not needed for head swap

G85 trans – 350 shipped not needed for head swap

80# injectors – 150 (used)
New meth kit – 210 shipped (needed since old one failed) not needed for head swap

Arp head studs -145
2.7” pulley – 39.99 not needed for head swap

New aem eugo wideband (needed for tune) – 125 (go ottp!)

Zzp neutral balance shafts – used – 150 not needed for head swap

Ati damper – 400 not needed for head swap


Machined zzp front cover – 100 not needed for head swap

Magnetic drain plug – 7 not needed for head swap

Valve seals – 19
Stealth heat exchanger – 379 not needed for head swap

Performance autowerks valvesprings – 125 (what a deal!)

Quote for machining crank - 70 not needed for head swap

Rod bearings – 28 not needed for head swap

Main bearings(or crank bearings) – 28 not needed for head swap

Front and rear seals – 25 not needed for head swap

Misc bottom end bolts and **** – 145 not needed for head swap

Dyno tune will be 500

i'm mad now

Originally Posted by Bluelightning

Lol yup exactly. Nothing wrong with some healthy discussions and opinions as long as everyone stays civil and on track.

Originally Posted by jrmotosports 88

i dont think RB's numbers are inflated at all. if RB lived in canada you could add on a extra 20 to 30% in shipping and exchange rate. which is where a guy like blue or myself are at. as for go fast parts i would include all motor, trans, suspension parts. essentially you need all 3 areas to go fast. even some interior stuff like wide bands and interceptors. all of that stuff is essential to go fast. i believe RB when he says he has 15 or 16 grand in total. i know if i didnt have some real creative ways of saving money or doing the work myself i would be approaching that easily.

small example is i recently bought a zzp 3 inch intake and cat back. i paid iirc 1200 just to land it in my shop. that is not including any gaskets, which i believe i paid about 100 for. thankfully i was able to do all the work myself. also thankfully i was given a ottp long tube that was broken. i had it fixed for a trade off in work.

Originally Posted by jrmotosports 88

my only point is be thankful you all live in the states.

Originally Posted by riceburner

yeah but to do it properly and safely was my concern. plus doing some of the things frees up a bit of power, like the neutral balance shafts.

putting valves and **** from a different head to the new one just doesn't make sense to me so new stuff it is.

all torque to yield internal bolts? better safe than sorry.

the motors at 75k so a new whole timing set makes sense to throw at it, especially since it will be easy while the motors out.

to run the ati properly, new **** is needed.

it is NOT all absolutely necessary, but for peace of mind i'm glad that i'm gonna have a pretty much new motor after this. like seriously i may as well reset the odometer.

and for everything else i got, well why do all this if i'm still gonna throw 93 octane into it? why have the blower off for a month without porting it and throwing a smaller pulley on it? why run a trans that has 75k on it with no LSD?

my intercooling system was a mess so having the bigass muthaphukin heat exhanger and new AN lines will make everything a breeze after this.

i mean seriously, what did i not need? why not try to squeeze new power out of everything i can while doing this? it is a build. i don't wanna be pushing everything on worn out stock parts.

i do NOT want the motor to blow after thisdue to some internal stretch bolt not being in sync, or the thermostat gasket leaking. new **** just makes sense

Originally Posted by Bluelightning

If these are things you want then doing half a build on the bottom end isn't the way to go. At minimum that motor should get pistons and cylinders check for out of round

Originally Posted by mrbelvedere

dam fuken skippy

there are some people I will go out of my way for it to be that way

Originally Posted by riceburner

we could check them, no?

idk if you saw my pics from a few pages back but minus the pistons looking dirty and a ring of carbon buildup (plan to clean) the cylinder sleeves look great

who knows..

no chance of being able to slap a set of pistons in is there? i'd need new rods, yes? and at that point well i may as well sleeve the MF but i wanna be on the road in march

Originally Posted by bmxracerchamp12

get arp timing chain guide bolts. i went stock with my cams and they didnt hold up...