Looking Engine building advice
Thread Starter
Joined: 09-29-06
Posts: 20,664
Likes: 217
From: Land of Freedom
Looking Engine building advice
Long story short ive gotten rid of all of my bills and finally have money for me and want to do a mild build on the motor which ive always wanted to do to a car. Im saving money and buying parts for probably a spring time build date. SMG will be doing all the work as hes the only one that touches my car.
My car currently has....
2.9
60s
TTR motor mount
TTR trans mount inserts
GMPP header
SMG catless 2.5" downpipe
hahn 3" catback
2 stage colder NGK BKR7E plugs
Sitting to go on in spring is.....
SMG front mount h/e
2.7 pulley
SMG dual pass
GM Option B
and Snow performance meth ( havnt purchased yet but will shortly )
Now im also saving money to have the head ported and polished with upgraded valve springs. While thats getting done id like to put in OTTP NBS as well.
Id like to do pistons and clutch but not till next year. Stock clutch is grabbing fine for now
After all that is done Fred will dyno tune it and she'll be all set to go.....
what im looking for is with the build i have set up is there anything some others like Maven or Area would suggest or reccomend while this is getting done or is there any forseen weak points ive missed other than pistons and clutch?
One qustion I have is should i upgrade to 3" downpipe and 3" OTTP intake as well?
Just would rather do things once than screw something up and go back later to have to do it again.
Thanks for any helpful input.
My car currently has....
2.9
60s
TTR motor mount
TTR trans mount inserts
GMPP header
SMG catless 2.5" downpipe
hahn 3" catback
2 stage colder NGK BKR7E plugs
Sitting to go on in spring is.....
SMG front mount h/e
2.7 pulley
SMG dual pass
GM Option B
and Snow performance meth ( havnt purchased yet but will shortly )
Now im also saving money to have the head ported and polished with upgraded valve springs. While thats getting done id like to put in OTTP NBS as well.
Id like to do pistons and clutch but not till next year. Stock clutch is grabbing fine for now
After all that is done Fred will dyno tune it and she'll be all set to go.....
what im looking for is with the build i have set up is there anything some others like Maven or Area would suggest or reccomend while this is getting done or is there any forseen weak points ive missed other than pistons and clutch?
One qustion I have is should i upgrade to 3" downpipe and 3" OTTP intake as well?
Just would rather do things once than screw something up and go back later to have to do it again.
Thanks for any helpful input.
Personally I would get a different header if i were you. And the 2 step colder plugs are iridium correct? I run the 1 step colder coppers on my 2.7 at .032 and they are peachy
Thread Starter
Joined: 09-29-06
Posts: 20,664
Likes: 217
From: Land of Freedom
ive been debating a new header as well too when/if i go to a 3" dp
Last edited by 07MetallicSC; Jan 22, 2010 at 01:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
New header (i'll sell you my JBP jk, you don't want that pos)
Agree with Qwik, rotato potato mounts.
3" dp would be good if that's what your header collector will be.
I suggest the Stu mod over option B. Option B is simply and expansion tank, the extra fluid doesn't really circulate through.
Look into the new AIS trunk mount system since you haven't ordered yet, very sexy setup.
Agree with Qwik, rotato potato mounts.
3" dp would be good if that's what your header collector will be.
I suggest the Stu mod over option B. Option B is simply and expansion tank, the extra fluid doesn't really circulate through.
Look into the new AIS trunk mount system since you haven't ordered yet, very sexy setup.
Thread Starter
Joined: 09-29-06
Posts: 20,664
Likes: 217
From: Land of Freedom
lol jbp just that name makes me laugh now after everything they did ( or didnt do ) last year
id have SMG make the Dp, what would a good header be to purchase? thats one thing ive never looked at since i got the gmpp a week after buying the car.
i was looking at the flow thru tank seems to be a good design, my gf got me option b for xmas tho and she'll be looking to see it in the car come spring time.
that new AIS is sexy! how much of a bitch is it to run everything to the front tho? that was my only concern.
im hoping with the setup i have planned ( mostly sitting in boxes in front of me ) to hit that magic 300 number without spray on an m62.
id have SMG make the Dp, what would a good header be to purchase? thats one thing ive never looked at since i got the gmpp a week after buying the car.
i was looking at the flow thru tank seems to be a good design, my gf got me option b for xmas tho and she'll be looking to see it in the car come spring time.
that new AIS is sexy! how much of a bitch is it to run everything to the front tho? that was my only concern.
im hoping with the setup i have planned ( mostly sitting in boxes in front of me ) to hit that magic 300 number without spray on an m62.
New header (i'll sell you my JBP jk, you don't want that pos)
Agree with Qwik, rotato potato mounts.
3" dp would be good if that's what your header collector will be.
I suggest the Stu mod over option B. Option B is simply and expansion tank, the extra fluid doesn't really circulate through.
Look into the new AIS trunk mount system since you haven't ordered yet, very sexy setup.
Agree with Qwik, rotato potato mounts.
3" dp would be good if that's what your header collector will be.
I suggest the Stu mod over option B. Option B is simply and expansion tank, the extra fluid doesn't really circulate through.
Look into the new AIS trunk mount system since you haven't ordered yet, very sexy setup.
Option B is a self bleeding air purge VIP (got that General Beck? NO AIR in coolant!) , the hattrick stu mod doesnt help long term if you understand cooling.
I vote CTI or Clear Image on headers, but Area got great results with a Pacesetter with a little welding...
I think NBS are a waste of time for a dd/semi track car
SMG : have them do pistons, studs, ported head be happy.
AIS trunk mount is kickass, TVS for me is a thing of beauty and a powerhouse of fun.
Ask Fred, ignore us....
Thread Starter
Joined: 09-29-06
Posts: 20,664
Likes: 217
From: Land of Freedom
ive heard good things about clear image. i might go with them
i forgot to mention arp head studs as well will be going in when the head is getting done.
heres a picture of whats in front of me ( option b from ottp is in the box )
sorry for crappy cellphone picture
i forgot to mention arp head studs as well will be going in when the head is getting done.
heres a picture of whats in front of me ( option b from ottp is in the box )
sorry for crappy cellphone picture
Ask Dana aka Dayta how he feels about switching from poly mounts to rotated ones. Personally I don't think you will gain much from the NBS ans valve springs w/o cams or a different goal in mind. Power drops off considerably up there even with a nice setup. Maybe the ported head will allow you to carry power up there but I doubt it.
Personally I am doing both those things but I am trying to avoid a shift in the quarter to 4th. I know it's not you current goal but a turbo setup without some of the other things would probably get you much higher that 300 @ a similar price. At the same time I understand why you would want to keep the SC.
Personally I am doing both those things but I am trying to avoid a shift in the quarter to 4th. I know it's not you current goal but a turbo setup without some of the other things would probably get you much higher that 300 @ a similar price. At the same time I understand why you would want to keep the SC.
Maxim thats a true statement. Valve springs are an awesome idea and here is why- save a shift in the 1/4. Protect the motor in a miss shift (you will miss a shift) and ported exhaust - releases the power in the LSJ thats the cork in the motor. Although Area47 gets 320 ++ with a standard head...
Ithink SMG will do fine for you. Good luck
Ithink SMG will do fine for you. Good luck
Thread Starter
Joined: 09-29-06
Posts: 20,664
Likes: 217
From: Land of Freedom
with those DCs on I can get to mcdonalds in .37 faster than if i had on say adidas shell toes. lol.
my main reason for wanting to keep the SC is reliability. I know for a fact that SMG can build me a hell of a turbo setup that will be reliable as all hell i just am afriad of "hiccups". It is my daily driver and if something happens to it even if its small and stupid that i cant fix myself then i have to figure out how to get the car almost two hours away to SMG then im down a car etc. thats probably my main reason for sticking SC. Dont get me wrong if i find a car for cheap trust me im going turbo lol. but until then im going to stick with what i got.
So you guys would reccomend doing the valve springs for added insurance?
my main reason for wanting to keep the SC is reliability. I know for a fact that SMG can build me a hell of a turbo setup that will be reliable as all hell i just am afriad of "hiccups". It is my daily driver and if something happens to it even if its small and stupid that i cant fix myself then i have to figure out how to get the car almost two hours away to SMG then im down a car etc. thats probably my main reason for sticking SC. Dont get me wrong if i find a car for cheap trust me im going turbo lol. but until then im going to stick with what i got.
So you guys would reccomend doing the valve springs for added insurance?
Thread Starter
Joined: 09-29-06
Posts: 20,664
Likes: 217
From: Land of Freedom
do you suggest a 3" intake for the build as well? currently have aem
also looking on their site diamond pistons are cheap but im sure its hella extensive to put in
also looking on their site diamond pistons are cheap but im sure its hella extensive to put in
Last edited by 07MetallicSC; Jan 23, 2010 at 10:05 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I didn't read through all the responses but here are some things you should consider.
Grabbing upgraded axles and ottp's rotated tranny mounts. Power is worthless unless you can get it to the ground and keep it there.
Also you should think about doing the pistons the same time you are doing the head, no reason to pay to have it removed twice, or do the labor twice yourself. While your there, just do both.
A full 3 inch exhaust system aka header/dp would help you out quite a bit too. No point in over-boosting your motor on the stock exhaust. I would go with a catless system personally because you will have less boost on the same pulley. The less boost you have on the same pulley the better.
edit: PS I see a pulley there but no hub. Make sure you have a hub to go along with it.
A 3 inch intake is not needed, the car isn't going to put down much more power with one then without one. If it was a pure drag car sure, or if you had a buddy trading your or selling you one cheap might as well. But don't go buy a new one for no reason.
Grabbing upgraded axles and ottp's rotated tranny mounts. Power is worthless unless you can get it to the ground and keep it there.
Also you should think about doing the pistons the same time you are doing the head, no reason to pay to have it removed twice, or do the labor twice yourself. While your there, just do both.
A full 3 inch exhaust system aka header/dp would help you out quite a bit too. No point in over-boosting your motor on the stock exhaust. I would go with a catless system personally because you will have less boost on the same pulley. The less boost you have on the same pulley the better.
edit: PS I see a pulley there but no hub. Make sure you have a hub to go along with it.
A 3 inch intake is not needed, the car isn't going to put down much more power with one then without one. If it was a pure drag car sure, or if you had a buddy trading your or selling you one cheap might as well. But don't go buy a new one for no reason.
Last edited by Zach06CobaltSC; Jan 23, 2010 at 10:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thread Starter
Joined: 09-29-06
Posts: 20,664
Likes: 217
From: Land of Freedom
I didn't read through all the responses but here are some things you should consider.
Grabbing upgraded axles and ottp's rotated tranny mounts. Power is worthless unless you can get it to the ground and keep it there.
Also you should think about doing the pistons the same time you are doing the head, no reason to pay to have it removed twice, or do the labor twice yourself. While your there, just do both.
A full 3 inch exhaust system aka header/dp would help you out quite a bit too. No point in over-boosting your motor on the stock exhaust. I would go with a catless system personally because you will have less boost on the same pulley. The less boost you have on the same pulley the better.
edit: PS I see a pulley there but no hub. Make sure you have a hub to go along with it.
A 3 inch intake is not needed, the car isn't going to put down much more power with one then without one. If it was a pure drag car sure, or if you had a buddy trading your or selling you one cheap might as well. But don't go buy a new one for no reason.
Grabbing upgraded axles and ottp's rotated tranny mounts. Power is worthless unless you can get it to the ground and keep it there.
Also you should think about doing the pistons the same time you are doing the head, no reason to pay to have it removed twice, or do the labor twice yourself. While your there, just do both.
A full 3 inch exhaust system aka header/dp would help you out quite a bit too. No point in over-boosting your motor on the stock exhaust. I would go with a catless system personally because you will have less boost on the same pulley. The less boost you have on the same pulley the better.
edit: PS I see a pulley there but no hub. Make sure you have a hub to go along with it.
A 3 inch intake is not needed, the car isn't going to put down much more power with one then without one. If it was a pure drag car sure, or if you had a buddy trading your or selling you one cheap might as well. But don't go buy a new one for no reason.
i have a header and catless downpipe currently with a 3 inch catback.
i dont need a hub to go with the pulley it fits on the stock hub
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