m62 rebuild ?
m62 rebuild ?
So I hear the m62's are good for around 100k miles or so if you run stock, and I know I am getting closer to 100k each day.
Any recommendations on where/who to go get the m62 rebuilt?
Any recommendations on where/who to go get the m62 rebuilt?
I know people that have gotten 150k+ out of them. Have you changed the supercharger oil at all? That'd be a good place to start.
Not sure who would rebuild it, but it might be cheaper just to buy a lower mileage unit and replace rather than rebuild.
Not sure who would rebuild it, but it might be cheaper just to buy a lower mileage unit and replace rather than rebuild.
Joined: 12-30-07
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From: NEPA
100,000 miles is not the magic number for the blower to be rebuilt. The blower should last the life of the car just fine.
I recommend first taking the blower off, and inspecting it. See if there is any play in the shaft. Inspect the rotors, bearings, and coupler. If everything looks good refill with new supercharger oil, and you will be set. While you have it apart I suggest upgrading to ZZP's coupler. Eatons coupler is known to fail.
I recommend first taking the blower off, and inspecting it. See if there is any play in the shaft. Inspect the rotors, bearings, and coupler. If everything looks good refill with new supercharger oil, and you will be set. While you have it apart I suggest upgrading to ZZP's coupler. Eatons coupler is known to fail.
Last edited by Staged07SS; Feb 15, 2011 at 10:43 AM.
I had a same thread like this a while back that never got any answers, so I had to figure it out myself, and here is what I did.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) Change the oil. This should be done every 30k. I don't care what anyone else says. It is cheap, and by 30k, it WILL come out nasty and dark. You will ONLY need 3.4oz. No more, no less. Go to your local drug store and buy a syringe for liquid medicine with the measurements printed on the side, it is very easy this way.
2) Get the ZZP coupler. It is very easy to change out, and on your stock one, the holes will probably be a slight bit oblonged. Either way, the ZZP coupler is much better than stock.
3) Grease the rotor bearings. Use ANY high temp synthetic grease! There is "special" grease from the factory that they use. It is made by "Nye", and it is VERY VERY expensive. So like I said, any high temp synthetic grease will be absolutely fine.
4) Clean out the blower's housing with a shop rag. (This is usually a given).
5) DO NOT mess with the snout side. There is no need for a new seal/bearings unless you suspect failure. Trust me. Most of the replacement seal/bearing kits are absolute garbage and are cheap ass china parts. If the OEM seal/bearings are not broke, do not touch it. If your seal were to fail, you would notice oil being leaked from around/behind the pulley and it would collect on the snout. As for the bearings, when you take the blower apart, spin the gear that goes to the snout, it should feel very smooth. Odds are it will. The OEM bearings are very good quality.
That's about all I have, ask if you need to know something else.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) Change the oil. This should be done every 30k. I don't care what anyone else says. It is cheap, and by 30k, it WILL come out nasty and dark. You will ONLY need 3.4oz. No more, no less. Go to your local drug store and buy a syringe for liquid medicine with the measurements printed on the side, it is very easy this way.
2) Get the ZZP coupler. It is very easy to change out, and on your stock one, the holes will probably be a slight bit oblonged. Either way, the ZZP coupler is much better than stock.
3) Grease the rotor bearings. Use ANY high temp synthetic grease! There is "special" grease from the factory that they use. It is made by "Nye", and it is VERY VERY expensive. So like I said, any high temp synthetic grease will be absolutely fine.
4) Clean out the blower's housing with a shop rag. (This is usually a given).
5) DO NOT mess with the snout side. There is no need for a new seal/bearings unless you suspect failure. Trust me. Most of the replacement seal/bearing kits are absolute garbage and are cheap ass china parts. If the OEM seal/bearings are not broke, do not touch it. If your seal were to fail, you would notice oil being leaked from around/behind the pulley and it would collect on the snout. As for the bearings, when you take the blower apart, spin the gear that goes to the snout, it should feel very smooth. Odds are it will. The OEM bearings are very good quality.
That's about all I have, ask if you need to know something else.
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