Milk at the bottom of the stick...
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From: Lewisburg, Pa
Milk at the bottom of the stick...
Headgasket...? It's just a tad at the bottom of the stick. It's the exact same color as the crap i'm getting out of the pcv valve so now i have a breather on that and the oil cap. Should i put a catch can on or do you think it will be ok the way it is?
What else could cause that milky junk. It has to be moisture from somewhere, and it has never drank coolant. The oil was just changed about 3 weeks ago and i didn't notice any milk y anything in the oil.
Anything I should check? Maybe change the oil again and see if it comes back...
What else could cause that milky junk. It has to be moisture from somewhere, and it has never drank coolant. The oil was just changed about 3 weeks ago and i didn't notice any milk y anything in the oil.
Anything I should check? Maybe change the oil again and see if it comes back...
If you do alot of short trips with your car when it's cold it might be just condensation.. We see alot of it at the garage this time of year. Check your coolant and make sure it's not starting to look like there is oil in it. If your coolant is clean then there is a good chance that it's just condensation. Take it for a 20-30 minute drive once a week or so and it should prevent it. Good luck.
you could be pumpin coolant through your intake mani aswell... do you have a dual pass or have you ever taken your intercooler endplate off? those o rings on the cores and the endplate gasket can stretch if you have had them off, allowing coolant to pass through your intake mani directly into your head... also did your coolant level change? did it get lower? thats the first thing i would check... is there white smoke coming out of your exhaust? thats a tell tale sign of a blown hg.
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lol well i did feed her some z max a few days ago and thought that may be it. But doubtful...and my coolant is still completely full and really clean like always. Thats what i was thinking condensation, it has been super cold last couple weeks. i work outside all day so i feel the pain my car is going through :P
I do have the fans running all the time and my operating temp never even hits 180 during the winter. Think that has anything to do with it? I can't see how i would have cracked the block, and i have never had the end plate or intake mai off.
I'm gonna change the oil again tomorrow and keep checking it. if it comes back i'll know something is def up. the top of the valve cover is perfectly clean like always too. I mean as far as i can see with a flash light. You would think it would be everywhere if i did have water getting in the oil.
I do have the fans running all the time and my operating temp never even hits 180 during the winter. Think that has anything to do with it? I can't see how i would have cracked the block, and i have never had the end plate or intake mai off.
I'm gonna change the oil again tomorrow and keep checking it. if it comes back i'll know something is def up. the top of the valve cover is perfectly clean like always too. I mean as far as i can see with a flash light. You would think it would be everywhere if i did have water getting in the oil.
check your headbolts by taking off the valve cover. there are 10 main headbolts and i know of a few cases where these have failed, including my own. they are TTY (torque-to-yield) and can stretch if there is too much stress in the combustions chambers, and the head starts to lift.
the head gasket is fairly stout for a stock piece. they are MLS (multi-layer steel) and very rarely are they the problem
the head gasket is fairly stout for a stock piece. they are MLS (multi-layer steel) and very rarely are they the problem
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check your headbolts by taking off the valve cover. there are 10 main headbolts and i know of a few cases where these have failed, including my own. they are TTY (torque-to-yield) and can stretch if there is too much stress in the combustions chambers, and the head starts to lift.
the head gasket is fairly stout for a stock piece. they are MLS (multi-layer steel) and very rarely are they the problem
the head gasket is fairly stout for a stock piece. they are MLS (multi-layer steel) and very rarely are they the problem
Ok i will do that tonight. I'm gonna change the oil again and set the old stuff in a jug to see if it separates. How will i be able to tell if the head bolts failed? What am i looking for? I was going to go with the ARP head studs when i do the valve springs and neutral delete shafts, but wasn't planning on that for a while yet
if they have stretched, they will be loose. mine were loose, i could loosen them the rest of the way by hand (and i would have, if they weren't so damn long)
they should be tight enough that you can't budge them (obviously)
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head studs are never a bad idea. i have seen stock headbolts fail at lightly modded levels. think stage 2.
if they have stretched, they will be loose. mine were loose, i could loosen them the rest of the way by hand (and i would have, if they weren't so damn long)
they should be tight enough that you can't budge them (obviously)
if they have stretched, they will be loose. mine were loose, i could loosen them the rest of the way by hand (and i would have, if they weren't so damn long)
they should be tight enough that you can't budge them (obviously)
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