9:5:1 is stock.

We've already had threads about bumping compression. It's never ended well for the guy who did it. just sayin

 

That is what I have read as well.

So if I'm not changing compression then I don't have to worry about pistons right?

 

stock is 9.5 10 or 10.5 would be good

 

10.5 with a right tune would see 3-4% more power vs 9.5 on the same setup.

 

Are you putting different rods in it? If you are, then go with pistons as well. One less thing to worry about.

 

I'm not changing rods. Stock rods are good enough for my application

 

I just cant see spending the money and time on sleeves and sticking on the stock blower, but that is just me.

 

If you are going with Darton Sleeves then you might as well do the pistons. My long term is to go with Dartons and forged pistons.....sticking with the stock rods. Also staying with the stock compression ratio based on all that I have read.

 

incrased compression is awsome i am speaking from experience if you want to make power easier then do it if you want to be a wuss then be a slow wuss

 

If you are going to limit your power by staying with the M62, why bother putting in sleeves or cams. Sleeves are going to cost at least $1500. installed and cams have to be done right to get them to work so expect to spend another $1400. for them installed/tuned. It really sounds like you don't want to spend the money doing it right so why not just call it a day and leave it stock??????

 

I have actually decided to not put darton sleeves in it or a cam. After researching all the things that happened to people who have done this, I have decided to PnP and put nuetral balancing shafts in and be done.

"incrased compression is awsome i am speaking from experience if you want to make power easier then do it if you want to be a wuss then be a slow wuss "
You sound like the dumb hicks around here who buy diesel trucks and boost 40lbs then complain about stripped bolts and blown up heads.
I am not going to raise the compression because I have read of people saying "I drove a whole year with 10:5." Then a few weeks later "Engine blown." same with sleeving/boring.

 

To victory red: why are you so rude??????(I am assuming you don't understand it is a question unless I use a bunch of "?'s") all I said is that I did not want to change CR or FI or use meth. That does not mean I'm not going to spend money else where.

To answer my first question, you must be from up north.

 

He's not rude, he's trying to tell you the ******* truth. Seems noone around here likes to here it.

 

people run 10.5 then blow up because they dont get the tune naild down or run to small of a pully and no cooling mods or no water meth or any combination listed as for cams zzp cams are drop in and tune nothing hard about that because they have done all the degreeing and hex locating for you and wesphily you sound like your about as smart as the dumb hicks your talking about and since you dont like the truth being told to you go build your junk your way and stay slow

 

Northern thing comfirmed. Thanks.

/thread btw. Useful useful information ended a few posts ago.

 

no its not a northern thing its the fact that you dont want to listen so keep urself limited

 

yet another post on this site that i just shake my head


word of advice kid, dont bother modding if your not gonna spend your money properly

 

get 80s and run e85

 

If ppl argue over wether it is reliable or even an upgrade then it is not a DD mod.

Bad ideas:
Changing CR: many ppl have blown engines
Porting/sleeving: many ppl have blown engines
Camming: mixed results AND many ppl have blown engines
Changing rods: stock rods are fine for my application
Changing pistons: Im not doing anything to make it worth doing.

Basically I'm doing a stage 2 kit with PnP and cooling mods. It is safe and reliable power which is the goal of my build. I think some of you forgot that when replying

 

and the one thing is aparantly u have read enough most of the stuff u listed is safe mods it just who tunes it is what will decide if it will live or not no engine wil live with a shitty tune

 

Polk Performance.

 

So, safe reliable power is gonna be 250-260whp for you?

People break things because they push limits. Not because of the parts themselves. Was it the pistons or cams that broke a sleeve in my motor? No, it was cyl pressure. I was making 100 more hp than you are planning to. Things break at that level, like it or not.

My advice to you, is don't even bother with the motor, as you aren't changing enough to make it worth doing. Stock block will handle all the stress you're gonna place on it.

 

people blow up cause they have a shitty tune or push the tune to far for the mods that they have as was the case for joe. But he pushed his car harder than 99% of the people on this site and found the limit. You could say he drove around with the bottle on and the trigger squeezed.

darkmanx was at 373whp with tvs/e85/ported head and that was without tuning for the ported head. He was on the stock block.

The only thing I wouldnt do on a dd is increase the compression. And maybe leave the cams out too cause of the negligible amount of fuel increase cause I am cheap like that.

A very safe dd is what you have listed. Me personally I would go with pnp head, 2.8, 79 or 80's, custom tune, wideband, 3" intake, ported charger, opt-b, and single/dual pass.

 

I posted that the only thing i am changing with the engine is PnP (port and polish) I'm not sleeving or camming. Obviously i am diong other things but as far as engine modification PnP is it.

The reason i am not changing compression is that I may go tvs in the future.

TBH I may turbo it and just keep stock block depending on how much polk charges.

 

My 2nd gear synchro is finished too...PM me please! Got a few questions.