Hurray! I just finished installing my first cooling mod. My last trip to the dyno resulted in Mega Heat Soak.

I installed THIS!
OTTP Stage 1 Heat Exchanger - Over The Top Performance

The hardest part of the install was drilling the holes to mount it. Also getting the hose off the stock HE was kind of a pain since some one at GM likes to glue them on. But I was ready for it this time since I had already changed my IC Pump since it had failed. My IAT2 temps seem to go down faster now. I even installed a temp sensor in the HE just for the fun of it. Haha The How to said to take the drain valve out and plug it since its pretty vulnerable and I thought that was a good idea, so I plugged it with a temp sensor I had laying arround. It's about 65 Degrees today, and my HE temp was running about 67 - 75F. I need to finish bleeding it, no option B for me. I have used the Option B mounting place to mount a termnal board for all my aeroforce sensors.

A Few things though I'd like to point out. I don't know if this is a mistake or intentional
ZZP Shows a HE routing in routing 1
http://www.zzperformance.com/miscftp/HE%20routing1.jpg
The Coolant Flows as Follows

• Coolant Pump Outlet
• Stock Intake Endplate
• Filler Cap/Neck
• Stock Heat Exchanger
• Aftermarket Heat Exchanger in top out bottom (ZZP Stg3 Shown, however I and several others are useing OTTP Stg1)
• Pump Inlet

Now routing 2 is if you have dual pass endplate AND an after market HE
http://www.zzperformance.com/miscftp/HE%20routing2.jpg

• Coolant Pump Outlet
• Stock Heat Exchanger
• Aftermarket Heat Exchanger in bottom out top (ZZP Stg3 Shown, however I and several others are useing OTTP Stg1)
• Dual Pass Intake Endplate In center out sides
• Filler Cap
• Coolant Pump Inlet

My question about the above is.
Why the diffrence in how the two HEs are connected?
I have my OTTP Stg1 connected as shown in Routing 1. However, once I do my dual pass modification, Is it REALLY nesscary if so WHY does the stock HE inlet have to be disconected from the Pump outlet then reconnect the inlet from the Stock HE to the filler cap, Then stock heat exchanger outlet hose that goes to the After market HE moved from the Top to the bottom, Then the connection that was on the bottom, moved to the top, and removed from the pump inlet to go to the center connection on the dual pass?

So why not do a combination of the above two. This would be WAY easyer and less work if you already have the aftermarket HE and then install dual pass. How well would it work this way?




My Current Mods are

• ZZP 2.85" Pulley <-- Came that way when I baught my car
• Stg 2 Belt OR Oversize Tensorior have no idea wich <-- Came that way when I baught my car
• Lucas 42# Injectors <-- Came that way when I baught my car
• Injector Wire Harness <-- Came that way when I baught my car
• Ingalls Torque Dampner <-- Came that way when I baught my car
• Intense PCM <-- Came that way when I baught my car
• ZZP 3" Intake
• ZZP Long Tube Header
• ZZP Catted Downpipe
• Intense Stg III tune
• Dual Interceptors
• ZZP 3 Pod A-Piller
• Analogic Gauge
• Custom Termnal Block at Option B mount location
• PVC Pipe with heat wrap for wires accross back of engine bay between termnal block fuse box/firewall
• Termnal Block on fuse box for ease of 'add a circuit'
• Fuel Pressure Sensor
• Wide Band Sensor
• 3Bar MAP Sensor for reading ABSOLUTE In Hg Intake Manifold Pressure
• EGT Probe on #4 Cylinder
• DVD/CD/MP3 Doubble DIM stereo from Crutchfield
• Backup camera
• OTTP Stg 1 H/E
• NGK BKR7E Plugs Gapped to 0.035

Planned Mods

• Simmens 60# Injectors
• Dual Pass Endplate
• Pheonic Intake Spacer
• Oil Pan swap for Oil Temp Sensor (Bung and sensor already installed in new pan)
• Oil Pressure Sensor
• OTTP Stg 1 Rotated Mount
• ZZP Tune for the 60# Injectors

 

Nice and I have a a ottp rotated mount I can sell you for $55 shipped

 

Thanks, but I already have the mount. Just havn't installed it yet. Same with the injectors.

 

you have all those mods and only put down 230whp? thats bad for business

 

If you notice alot of those are not power adders....
The 230 is from before some of those mods. I havnt updated it yet since I havnt goten an accurate post mods dyno run. My last post mod dyno run had me at 228, and that was with an IAT2 of arround 140 - 150! When I compared heat soak power with cold power, then worked out the math for the pre/post runs heat soaked ect I figured Id put down arround 240 - 245. Havnt dynoed it yet to confirm. Figure I'll wait till I get my 60s and Tune before Dynoing again.

 

you should of went catless imo... i have less mods then you and i can take down 2.8 m62's all day dig or roll. mods are in my sig

you should be gapped at .32 btw

 

OTTP really needs to update their site....

The S1 heat exchanger (GEN 4) is a radiator style core, not the bar and plate style show in the photo.

 

Everything seems to be running fine with them at .035. Maybe nexxt year, Ill change them out and regap to 0.032. Also its my DD so I wanted to stay street legal so I stayed catted. Some peole say the SC sounds like **** cattless anyway.

What I mainly want is people to look at the two hose routing options then evaulate my alternate hose routing for the Dual Pass and HE.

 

.035 is probably fine. Mine were .032 on a 2.8 pulley. Just make sure you aren't getting any misfires. I would not go catless on the SS/SC. Way too loud.

 

just follow whats there for routing gm spwnt alot of money to find the best way to rout things

 

But the part that doesn't make sence is if you dno't have the dual pass endplate, the pump feeds the endplate, then goes to the HEs, if you DO have dual pass endplate, it goes through the HEs first then the endplate.

Also,
Without Dual Pass Endplate, Coolant enters the top of the HE, but if you then add a dual pass endpalte, you have to move it so the coolant goes in the BOTTOM? Thats ALOT of hose re-routing on the HEs and Pump just to install the endplate after having a HE on.

 

so

 

It just seems unnesscary and like a waste of time, effort. If it is nesscary and not a waste of time, there should be a very good reason behind it.

Yes engineers designed it that way, but I have devoloped low reguard at times for some of the things engineers do. For example I can take anyone to a blackhawk and show them several things that could have easily been designed WAY better and eayser.

 

no matter which set up the in side of the front mount is the top your looking at it wrong and it dosent matter how the enplate gets fed aslong as its cooled fluid